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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:whiteflag Yes I'm begging:cry I have an 88 bronco 351 and the temp keeps rising.
I have replaced Rad., t-stat 195, heater coal, hoses,fan clutch, and I just got finished doing a flush and it is still heating up. Every thing has been replaced with ion the last 2 mouths. Yes I read all 10 pages in search on overheating. Page 9 10 did not come up. I let sit and idle to get all the air pockets out for a good 15 mins and I ran the flush for good 20 min. I'm totaly lost the truck is kicking my [email protected]@:box0715: I'm out of ideas:whiteflag Does anyone have any ideas?
 

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Check your dip stick to see if there are traces of water, you may have a blown head gasket, that's usually a sign when you've replaced all that you have.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I all ready change those too. Less then 6 months ago and I just finish doing an oil change 2 wks ago. I getting good comprsion. There was no water in the oil. What do they mean about a reverse flow water pump? Could that be my promlem? I didn't find to much info on that. I haven't driven it alot because of all the heating promblems. maybe 2 times a wk in the last 6 months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes all hoses are equaly hot and the radiater. At idal the temp stays down but when I drove it starts to heat up. Could I have got a bad fan clutch? If I hooked up the heater houses wrong would that make any differants?The reason I ask is that when it starts to raise I'll turn the heat on and the temp gage moves up higher instead of lower. I'm reaching for strawls! I'm trying to think of any possoblity. yes i'm a bad speller.
 

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have you repalced the water pump? i find it hard to believe that you did all that work and left the old water pump on there.
 

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Try using one of those infrared thermometers......you know the one that you just aim the LASER at the spot where you want to get a reading from. Aim it at the t-stat neck area????
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes the water pump was the last thing I did.
I tripled check when I put the head gaskits on.
i didn't have one in before so when I pu tthe new one in I put in with the cone facing out towards the houseing. Before I did the flush I do remember when I would stop to let it cool off it would gurgle and come out of the resevuor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was just thinking, what about my belt. It squicks every now and then but alway when I have a load on it. The belt looks good but there is glazing on some of the pulleys.
 

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Yeah- I did it-SO WHAT !!
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Are you sure the head gaskets are on right? Both say front at front(especially rh bank) and the wp is rev rotation for serpentine belt drive?EDIT: overlooked other posts on head gaskets
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok here is a update. I change the fan clutch to a heavy duty one and drove it for about a 45 min. and the temp stayed a 1/4 the way up on the stock gauge.I checked the gauge and it is working right.Befor I would drive for 15 min. and it would start to go to 3/4 the way up. There was a big differance between the two clutchs. The new one was twice the size of the old one. I think they gave me the woung fan and clutch before. When I went to change the clutch ithe new one would not fit through the fan so I put the old fan on to the new clutch. Know I just got to fegure out why the temp goes up when I turn the heat on.
 

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Let's hope that does it! Also you can take the wire at the gauge send unit(intake) off,switch key on but engine NOT running,gauge should read cold.Then by grounding the wire momentarily it should read hot or above.This should make sure the gauge/wiring is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Broncfoot, well I drove it for the last4 hrs. in stop and go traffic and up on the interstate at 65 and it stayed between n & o on normal were it should be. I'm going to take it to school this wk so I'll see if it stays there. But ya the gaskits are on right. I'm thinking I might have air in the system becuse when I turn the heat on the guage goes up a hair. Or I might have the heater hoses switched up from when I put the manifold back on.
 

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Let it cool down after a drive like that and then open the rad cap and top it off......let it cool all the way down though. Do that a few times, and the system will relive itself of any excess air, and it should for the most part maintain a steady coolant level....as long as too much ain't spilling past the cap on the overflow tank.

I am still thinking that the stock water temp gauge is also a issue.....I would want to see for myself on either a aftermarket gauge or something I could substantiate the stock one with.....just to be like 100% sure.

The only gauges in my DD that I think are safe enough for daily use are the fuel and Volt gauges.....and the stock volt gauge is on its way out the door this coming week!
 
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