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Discussion Starter #1
Electrical diagnostic is not my specialty but i do know some stuff. I recently just had problem starting my bronco. I went to the store and tuck drove fine. Came back out and started it and "click." I went to advance and had them test my starter, battery and alternator and they're all working good. I even got a new starter and they both apperently work outside the truck but not in it. :bangheadSo i tried to replace the solenoid on the fender and still doing the same thing. I even tried bypassing with a screw driver and "click". So i heard and figured worst case to turn the crank pulley and my flywheel spinning so i assume engine is not seized. i put new battery cable on pos and neg terminals to make sure but nothing. Lights dont dim on dash at all either when starting. I'm kinda all out of ideas to look next. Any suggestions would be great.
 

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What about the cable to the starter?
 

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Sounds like a bad starter to me, sometimes they will only throw the bendix out and not actually turn the engine over, the click your probably hearing is the bendix from the starter hitting the flexplate/flywheel. IMO I've never had a starter or alternator test bad on the parts stores test equipment, seems like everything tests good, may be just me idk. But if your jumping the starter selinoid and still nothing I would assume it's a bad starter

Also possible its a bad ignition switch

Also it is helpful if you include your broncos year and engine info

Is the click inside the cab or sound like it's coming from the starter itself?
 

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Kitteh Commandaar!
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Clean ALL of the connections - especially the grounds. Check/Clean and ensure all of them are good and tight. If the battery and starter tested good (and you replaced it), then it almost has to be a connection issue.

KC
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok just so u know its a 1993 bronco eddie bauer 5.0L with a E40D auto transmission. I replaced all of the cables except for the ones going to the starter. And yes every time i start it it "clicks once". I hear it down in the starter and the fender solenoid. if its a bad ground where would i start?
It has the ground cable from battery to the bar on the intake manifold bolted to the block and a cable from that to the frame under the hood, and the wire off the terminal to the frame on the fender. The way my grund cables are how its been running since ive owned it. i could take a pic to show u what im working with if it would be helpful.

If it was a bad starter, how come my old a new one work outside the truck?
 

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Just because the starters bendix kicks out and spins doesn't mean it's good.
I've seen many starters that would not work, you take em out and test them and almost always they will spin because there is no resistance on the starters bendix itself.

Starting system diagram
 

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Check the connections to your starter solenoid. I don't know how many Fords have given me grief over the years because of rust on the connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok so ive cleaned all the grounds. Ive checked, cleaned, and reconnected all the cables. I even tested it with an ohm/volt meter and im getting power all the way to my starter at 12.67 volts. Still doing the same click sound every time I attempt to start. the motor is not kicking out or spinning the flywheel. I tried to take out the spark plugs and turned the crank and pistons are moving. I'm kind of running out of options.

Ohh and i almost forgot i used the CODE READER and im getting the codes 114, 116, 636, 452. I checked and they are sensors ive replaced in the past recently. But the transmission oil temp sensor which is 636, would that affect its ability to start????
 

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Just to be sure it's not the battery-see if you can jump start it from another vehicle. I don't trust Advances battery testers.
 

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Have you tried swapping out the starter with another one?
If all of your wiring seems correct and grounds are good I wouldn't hesitate to suspect a bad starter or selenoid even if it was fairly new, I don't trust the parts stores test equipment for alternators or starters
 

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Try this to determine if the starter relay is working:
Take a screwdriver and use that to jumper the large terminal on the left side of the starter relay to the left most small terminal on the starter relay. Take the slip-on wire off small the terminal. If the starter engages, then you can blame the ignition switch (or associated circuitry). If the relay clicks and the starter doesn't engage, the problem is the starter motor or the wiring to the starter.
 

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Here is how I have tested my starter in the past. IF IT IS A NEW STARTER DON'T TELL THE STORE HOW YOU TESTED IT!! First you need 2 people and another vehicle close to the truck so that jumper cables will reach under the truck. Hook the cables to the running truck' ground the other end somewhere under the truck on a good clean chunk of metal. Have the other guy turn your truck key to the start position. Now take the positive cable and connect it to the starter. Unless you don't have good cable connections it should turn the starter over. If it doesn't and things heat up real fast the starter is bad. CAUTION you are sending full running current to the starter and this causes thing to get hot. DON'T leave the Pos connected to the starter for more than a second or two at most. If it it's going to turn over it will right away. Pretty obvious. If it turns over then you are having problems supplying power to the starter. If it doesn't budge then there is an issue with the starter. I check my used starters using jumper cables. IF YOU DO THIS BE PREPARED FOR THE LOOSE STARTER TO JUMP WHEN YOU CONNECT THE POSITIVE.
Swamp
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah ive replaced the starter solenoid on the fender and i bought a new starter. Yes ive even attempted to jump it from the solenoid with a screw driver and all it does is click. should i take it apart to see if anything is binding. I mean ive never had a problem like this. Everything still moves and turns. and it just wont start.But i do have 231,495 miles on it. I'm not sure what else to do.

Are you sure its safe to jump the starter off another vehicle????
 

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with two people. Park brake on. Have someone turn the key to start. 2nd person smacks the starter with a hammer. If it goes to cranking the starter is done for.

I'd bet since you replaced all the wires and everything the starter is done for.
 

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Sounds like the cable between the starter relay and starter is bad. Just because it shows 12+ volts doesn't mean it can carry the current. You can show 12 volts on a 16 gauge wire, but it sure won't crank the starter.

It might be something transient, so you may have to wiggle it or pull it off to properly test.

I've gotten bad "new" relays from Advance Auto. Remember, this crap is made in China. They don't give a flying crap about quality control, lead content, or poisoning our pets.

Never give Chinese crap the benefit of the doubt. :thumbup

I also like Swamps suggestion.....just be careful not to leave welder like arc marks on the "new" starter post.
 

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Have you tried starting it with the serpentine belt off?
I had a ford truck come into work because it wouldn't start did the same one single click, come to find out the ac compressor locked up and with the belt on wouldn't let the engine turn over, just a thought.

Sounds like your getting power to it just seems like something is binding or preventing the bendix from syncing with the flexplate,

A lot easier to give someone a hand in person lol, too bad we can't jump through your computer/phone screen and help
 

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Discussion Starter #18
its not the solenoid cuz i replaced it twice. ive even tried to smack the hell out of it with a hammer. my starter is brand new so i doubt it. Im getting all the same single clicking sound whether i replace new parts or not.

I had that problem a while ago with the ac compressor. Its brand new like 4 months old and i took the belt off. No improvements.

I called ford and they said based on what i told them, my ignition switch, neutral safety switch, or the brain. What should i do????
 

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Well if you tried jumping it at the solenoid and still does the same that would eliminate your ignition switch, also I believe if it was the neutral safety switch it would kill ignition in any gear selection, neutral safety will only let you crank in neutral or park, so the fact your still getting a reaction from the starter period eliminates the neutral safety switch being an issue I would imagine.
 

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Forward Some Money
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its not the solenoid cuz i replaced it twice. ive even tried to smack the hell out of it with a hammer. my starter is brand new so i doubt it. Im getting all the same single clicking sound whether i replace new parts or not.

I had that problem a while ago with the ac compressor. Its brand new like 4 months old and i took the belt off. No improvements.

I called ford and they said based on what i told them, my ignition switch, neutral safety switch, or the brain. What should i do????
Not listen to the Ford dealer. If you told them it was getting 12v at the starter when you turned the key, that would eliminate any of their suggestions. Good mechanics don't answer the phone at a dealership.

Again, sounds like it's the cable. Try bypassing it with a jumper cable.
Did you try any/all of the techniques suggested using a second vehicle and helper?
 
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