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Discussion Starter #21
I finally began to address the issue. I received my parts mid last week. I decided I would work from home this week to give these shocks a try.
Tonight I managed to get through the driver side dual shocks. Took me quite a while to do it because I ran into a couple roadblocks but was able to figure it out. One thing I left pending was the frontend rearward low end bolt. I reinstalled the original one but noticed half of the thread was fine while the other was very low. This looks like over time can get loose. Does anyone know where to find these? I couldn't find them at O'Reilly and AutoZone. Not sure if they're special I need to get from dealer, or just anything in that size. I think it says 9.6 on it. Hard to see with the rust.
Glad you guys mentioned the penetrate oil, I put that on about 10 minutes before starting and it wasn't too hard to take everything off considering the age. Tomorrow I'll do the passenger side which I think will go by much quicker then Wednesday I'll finish up the back. I think I'll wait till Saturday to install the steering stabilizer. I'm adding some pictures to see if you can let me know if this looks alright.
One more question, should the shocks be on there pretty tight? I can't turn them with my hand or compress them but when I pushed down on that side of the truck, I saw them compress a little but definitely more solid than the other corners. I tried to follow the book and torque specs but it's my first time using a torque wrench and not sure how I did.

Thanks
 

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Why are you installing a Steering Stabilizer? That is a cover-up/band-aide part Unless you do a lot of off-road/Rock-Crawling or a Super Lift, for the street it is a waste of money if you get the Front-end set up CORRECTLY!
 

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you can go to a proper hardware store and buy the nuts/bolts needed for the shock bolts. just make sure you remember that for metric you're going to want 10.9 to compare to SAE class 8 bolts.

a flanged nut would replace the need for a lock washer and regular nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
@Stevo440
I was told the steering was lose and this would help. What goes into getting the front end set up correctly? I'm new to this so I'm learning as I go. But you're right I only use it for daily street driving.

@dash_cam
Thanks, I thought they were special but I'll check out a hardware store.
 

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you shouldn't need a steering stabilizer if the front end / steering is in good shape. like stevo said, it's a bandaid.

there are surely write-ups on how to troubleshoot loose steering, but basically, from the steering to the ball joints you've got the rag joint, the gearbox itself (a known weak point), tie rod ends, and ball joints, combined with the front bushings - axle pivot / TTB bushings and radius arms.

any and all of those can contribute to reduced steering performance.
 

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Most Mechanics haven't got a clue to the Dynamics of TTB Front suspension. They treat it like all other frontends that they deal with. The Axle Pivot bushings and the Radius Arm Bushings and their attached parts (Twin Beams) are not found on Normal Front-ends. So to most Mechanics and DYI'ers alike this TTB is a Mystery to them in how it works, so a Steering Stabilizer is one of their answers to fix problems that they know nothing about. The biggest problem is getting a CORRECT Front-end Alignment. Most Mechanics if not all unless you "Edgumacate" them on what to do will Align it like they do to every other vehicle that they deal with. If that is done you will ALWAYS end up with more Toe-out then when they had set it up on the Alignment machine with. With the Extra Toe-out comes varying degrees of WANDER. Now there are other things in the Front-end that contribute to the looseness in the Steering as mentioned above in a previous post. Every component needs to be examined and replaced if it fails. Steering Box, Rag Joint or Equivalent, Ball Joints, Wheel Bearings, Tie-rods, Pitman Arm and above mentioned Bushings and any other parts I missed. This is a complicated Front End comparatively speaking.
I have 292K miles on my Bronco and it drives straight down the Highway, the steering is tight, a lot of things have been replaced and some are still Original (Ball Joints and Tie-rods) as far as I know. The Ball Joints have slight play in them and I have new ones to go in but it still Tracks straight and the Steering is still fairly tight and I drive it every other weekend 720 miles round trip at 70-80 mph and it floats down the road (6 KYB Gas-A-Justs) and feels very safe and controllable at speed. No need for a Steering Stabilizer for me.I just worry about the BJ's!!!!!
Sorry I got carried away!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
@Stevo440 @dash_cam
This is great information for me, the more the better, thank you. I will definitely have my uncle take a look at all of those things and replace them as needed. I want it to drive straight and smooth.
 

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@Stevo440 @dash_cam
This is great information for me, the more the better, thank you. I will definitely have my uncle take a look at all of those things and replace them as needed. I want it to drive straight and smooth.
Just to give you more info on how to Align the Front-end DO NOT let them raise the vehicle off the rack to check the front end components, then drop it down and then Align it. They must Align it in the "AS DRIVEN ON THE RACK CONDITION".... This way the TTB Axle is in the Loaded position and your Toe will be able to be setup correctly and avoid it flexing and giving you Toe-out.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
@dash_cam @Stevo440
Ok will do.
So I just finished the front shocks and took it for a drive. I'm not sure if it's my imagination but the front feels better. When I stop, it still rocks back but I think because I still need to install the rear shocks. When I take off, I don't feel the rocking or standing up feeling I did before. When I took the shocks off, I did notice the shocks on the right side didn't uncompress anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I finished up the rear shocks today and took it for a ride. The rocking is completely gone. When I removed them and compressed them, 4 of the 6 shocks didn't decompress anymore. Clear to see why the ride was so bad. Now the truck seems to be moving as one unit instead of a front and a rear separately. Just solid all around. Next I'm going to work on some of the steering things you guys mentioned and maybe bushings of leaf springs. I also noticed I need from brake pads badly. I would like to do the rotors and wheel bearings but I think that might be a bit over my head to do that.

Thanks for all the help.
 

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I also noticed I need from brake pads badly. I would like to do the rotors and wheel bearings but I think that might be a bit over my head to do that.
PIck up a manual if you haven't already. Read the section on brakes a couple times. Give yourself more time than you think you'll need. Take it slow. If you get stuck/have a question; FSB more than likely has the answer.

These trucks have a few quirks, but are overall quite easy to work on.

Just be warned they get addictive: First it's a tune-up, shocks, then brakes, redo the interior, a few other little things... next thing you know you're looking at superduty axles, a 5.8/np435 swap, and how to build a 1356/1356 doubler. 🤣

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I have some bad news. The sitting and standing up is back. I'm not sure if it temporarily was fixed or if it was wishful thinking on my part but I could of swore it went away. So I guess next step is the leaf springs.
 

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OP first post says it rocks forward and up when taking off.

Sounds like axle wrap to me.

Watch this


There are others as well.

Weak/broken leaf springs or lots of motor allow the axle to twist up in the front due to torque to the wheels. This lifts the vehicle a bit on takeoff which matches what are describing to me.

Bad shocks were a contributing factor and the new may be covering the spring issue a bit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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I have some bad news. The sitting and standing up is back. I'm not sure if it temporarily was fixed or if it was wishful thinking on my part but I could of swore it went away. So I guess next step is the leaf springs.
Front springs as well...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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shocks my good man. i had a chevy truck had did the same thing was just bad shocks. new shocks and it drove flat as could be. i see you only replaced the rear you need to replace all the front will cause the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
shocks my good man. i had a chevy truck had did the same thing was just bad shocks. new shocks and it drove flat as could be. i see you only replaced the rear you need to replace all the front will cause the same issue.
I did replace front and back. The movement went away for a few days but then returned. I did some reading on traction bars but seems like should only be a problem for oversized tires. I'm going to try front coil springs and rear leaf springs first.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I put on some highway tires today. General grabber ht60. I only drove home but the ride seems alot smoother compared to the cracked AT tires I had on it.
 
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