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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '89 custom and it died on me the other day. Turned over but no start, so I tried starting fluid to see if it was fuel delivery. It started up and died so I knew it was fuel delivery. Started with the cheapest fix and replaced the filter..... Nothin! I then realized that the fuel pump(s) were not turning on so I had it towed home. Afetr work I did some digging (and some searching here) and replaced the relay. BAM! the pumps turned on. Escited as I was I went to start her and she just turned over but would'nt start. Tried some starting fluid, still nothin. Checked for spark, got spark. Checked the fuses, all good. I am getting frustrated now and really want to take her out in the mud for the first time since I have had it (about a month). I searched a bit around here and found some good tips but to no avail. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!

OH, I also checked the inertia switch.
Any help/suggestions would be very much appreciated.
 

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Pull codes, that will probably tell you exactly whats going on.
My uncles 89 custom did something similar
he replaced the fuel pressure regulator(?) and it fixed the problem.
Definitely oull codes though

-Vance
 

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89 custom what.....F150 or BKO....a fuel relay tells me your vehicle is EFI so if that's the case I would "pull codes" from the computer and see what faults are indicated....even though it won't fire up as long as the battery is good you can perform KOEO = key on engine off test to get some idea ....However you will need either an OBD-1 or OBD-2 Ford Code Reader with diagnostic book but only costs $29.00 at O'Reillys...there is a "code pulsing" technique but IMO it's a PITA using a paper clip..make sure the batteries are fresh in the code reader or it won't trigger the computer tests properly.

For How to, code numbers, code explanations and vehicle Test Connector location FREE try ~ www.fordfuelinjection.com and for additional help www.broncolinks.com ~ Broncos and F150's OK...

My first guess would be to pressure test the FPR = fuel pressure regulator located on fuel rail towards the back, drivers side. You'll need a fuel pressure gauage to test for PSI, IIRC around 40 psi BUT for quick check there should be a schraeder valve on the rail towards the front which looks like a tire valve so press the center and see if any fuel comes out at all.

Then check the ignition module where ever it's located and have it tested for FREE at an Autozone type store. Also there may be a PIP sensor = profile ignition pickup on the distributor shaft which may not be fucntioning or sending the signal ie: distributor, ignition module etc.
To replace the PIP you need to pull out the distributor, remove the roll pin and gear then slide off the sensor. The pip can be purchased seperately, $40.00ish or you might buy a reman dissy with the PIP attached at a good price, maybe $130.00 especially if it has the TFI module directly attached to the dissy so it's like getting 3 in 1 if you know what I mean....

Most of this is information is in the Haynes Manual so look for "self tests" and see what you can do, maintain patience and work thru it because there's rarely an easy solution with these vehicles...lol lol but NBD...

Good Luck ~
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry its a Bronco... I will pick up a scanner today and see if it comes up with anything. Looks like I will be at Ecology this weekend.
 

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I don't believe a FPR issue itself will show up as a "fault code" in the vehicle computer because it's vacuum operational, with either a PCM or ICM it's either electronics, engine internals and emissions codes stored the in Continuous Memory......

I've had my Ford Code Reader for some time and IMO it's worth its weight in gold, fast and easy.... so you can get to the issue quickly and fix it..


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Did the 89 come with the intertia switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just borrowed a code reader from a friend. Even if it is a FPR problem, would'nt it still start with starting fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It also has some funky Mallory ignition box that looks like it wasnt installed with much care (Just laying in the engine bay). Could that be an issue? Is there maybe a way to test?
 

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Definately go over and retrace any electricals on that Mallory Box......make sure it's hooked up correctly or remove it ....

My "inertia switch" is located above the carpet line under the dash below the heater plenum, off the tranny floor hump passenger side..weird....but they can be in any location depending on the yr BKO....

Look at this way regardigng fuel supply, electric fuel pumps are senders so you got a small one with sending unit in the tank and in some case like my 86 I have a fuel "reservoir" with filter, kind of like a short jar and screw lid under the Transfer Skid Plate on the frame rail, this was desigend to keep the forward pump from starvation at cornering, up hill and steep Off Road angles, the forward fuel pump is on the frame rail under the drivers seat area with a canister filter right after that.

In any case fuel is being sent up top managed by the FPR which has a diaphram inside which could be ruptured enough so the pressure is low and won't sustain enough fuel to keep it running....if my reservoir pressure valve is fubar the fuel won't flow beyond that point.... PITA.....

Is there any chance you had the "distributor totally out " for any reason and didn't "stab it" back correctly......ie: #1 pistion at BTDC, set harmonic balancer to 0 and rotate the rotor CCW to the #1 lead on the dissy cap for initial start up......?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK..... I kind of figured it out. There were 2 issues I was dealing with.
#1- It died because the in tank fuel pump went out.

#2- The PO (or POS) had a ground from the ingnition box laying underneath the battery grounding on the tray. When it was towed, I think the battery moved and the wire fell off.

So, I replaced the fuel pump (FUN!) And fixed some of the "Custom" wiring. It fired up but ran like crap. Hooked up the scanner and tells me something about the secondary fuel circuit (KOEO) and #8, #4 cyls arent firing (KOER). Changed the cap, rotor and plugs and now it won"t even start. I think I incorrectly hooked up the plug wires. (I hope). The dist cap has a (1) stamped on it, does that mean cyl #1? Going to tackle that tonight after work.

Does anyone know what "Secondary fuel circuit" may mean? Is it the in-line pump? It just seems like it is one thing after another! But thats half the fun of a toy I guess.
 

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#1 stamped on the cap is the lead for the #1 spark plug wire, the rotor should point to 1 o'clock and the stamp on the cap should be in the same position, just check in the Haynes Manual for the firing order or www.broncolinks.com it's got to be there as well AND while you're there check the fuel circut info etc.


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
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