Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
alright guys so i just bought a 95 bronco fullsize (very proud) and im trying to change my rotors. but those locking hubs are in the way and i need to figure out how to remove them. please help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,108 Posts
Your entire hub has to come off, and under the lockout is a special nut you'll need a tool for... Buy a Haynes and search, and you'll see exactly what you need. Check out Steve83's supermotors also.
 

·
Puts it were it doesnt go
Joined
·
640 Posts
make sure that when you put everything back together that you do it according to the spicifed torque ratings. otherwise you risk having a tire fall off or burning up your bearings. also, regrease your bearings while you have them out. it takes two minutes to do and is great insurence for down the road. if you go to your local parts store they should have a haynes manual for your truck. this is very helpful with anything you will ever do on your truck. also be sure to pick up a special socket for the locknuts on the spine otherwise you will be making another run to the store later on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,984 Posts
plammy:
Small allen style wrench to get the cap off, snap ring tool and a special 4x4 socket ($17.00) in any auto parts chain, torque wrench. it's not that difficult and don't foget to repack with grease if need. :doh0715:

Definately "search" and but you'll find a tons of pics ~ :thumbup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,108 Posts
make sure that when you put everything back together that you do it according to the spicifed torque ratings. otherwise you risk having a tire fall off or burning up your bearings. also, REPLACE your bearings while you have them out. it takes two minutes to do and is great insurence for down the road. if you go to your local parts store they should have a haynes manual for your truck. this is very helpful with anything you will ever do on your truck. also be sure to pick up a special socket for the locknuts on the spine otherwise you will be making another run to the store later on.
Fixed. :thumbup

IMO, if you're in there, for the cheap cost of bearings for our trucks, you might as well do them too...
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,025 Posts
You definitely need to review the procedure first because you will also have an issue with the cast toner ring that is seated on the inner part of the hub and has to be pulled in order to get the rotor off the backside.

Take this time to also be prepared to re-fresh your bearings, or just go get all that new, plus seals while in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,684 Posts
Why would you need to pull the toner ring? Just take the whole hub/rotor assembly in, they'll turn them just like that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,103 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,917 Posts
Why would you need to pull the toner ring? Just take the whole hub/rotor assembly in, they'll turn them just like that.
:stupid
That is what I have done.

Now if he is trying to R&R the rotor then the hub needs to come off, just follow one of the write-ups that the other guys posted.

If you still can't figure it out, take the entire assembly to Napa and let them do it.
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,025 Posts
:stupid
That is what I have done.

Now if he is trying to R&R the rotor then the hub needs to come off, just follow one of the write-ups that the other guys posted.

If you still can't figure it out, take the entire assembly to Napa and let them do it.
That's right. And I was going by the original thread of "change rotors" so I'm assuming we are not turning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,684 Posts
Sorry, missed that. I dunno, these rotors are pretty thick, and it's a lot cheaper to get them turned. Some people don't even realize you can turn them, though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,154 Posts
Just out of curiosity, why can't he just bang out the lug bolts (you have to do that anyway to get the rotor off of the hub), slip the rotor off, slip the new one on, and re-seat the lug bolts with the lug nuts and the wheel?
Not that it's a bad idea to check your wheel bearings, but if you were in a hurry, or you just had your front bearings done or something.:shrug
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,103 Posts
Just out of curiosity, why can't he just bang out the lug bolts (you have to do that anyway to get the rotor off of the hub), slip the rotor off, slip the new one on, and re-seat the lug bolts with the lug nuts and the wheel?
Not that it's a bad idea to check your wheel bearings, but if you were in a hurry, or you just had your front bearings done or something.:shrug
You could do it that way, but IMHO, its much more involved and risky.... I dont think seperating the hub and rotor and re-seating is a procedure you do if you are in a hurry.... to me, its much quicker and efficient (and less risky) to just replace the hub/rotor assembly with new or used and turned ones...

As far as the bearing and such go... I think its just a general philosophy of "since you are there". I did my bearings about 6 months ago and just recently had to replace the rotor. I chose to replace the entire hub/rotor assembly and used my same bearings (because I knew they were almost new) and just repacked them..... new seals of course though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,154 Posts
I need to shop where you shop. When I needed a hub, I couldn't find one to save my life. Wound up going to the junk yard. Here, they sell the rotors separately from the hub, and don't list the hub at all (autozone, advance and napa). In my case, I did wheel bearings about 6 months ago and noticed that I was going to need a new rotor. I'm not going to take the hub off, especially when it's much easier to remove the rotor separately. But if you don't know the condition of your bearings and hubs, you're probably better off at least checking them out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
But you do need to do the bearings occasionally. If you did the bearings you must have the large lock nut socket required. Maybe I'm missing something in my fog
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
well, I have heard that turning rotors is..well not really bad, but i guess takes away life of the rotor, because your taking metal off and making them thinner, IMHO it would be easier to get new ones......and well i dont have a problem knocking studs out with hammer, i break them alot...its lame...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,108 Posts
well, I have heard that turning rotors is..well not really bad, but i guess takes away life of the rotor, because your taking metal off and making them thinner, IMHO it would be easier to get new ones......and well i dont have a problem knocking studs out with hammer, i break them alot...its lame...
Stepping on your brakes takes life away from the rotor... :shrug

There is a specification at which point you cannot turn a rotor anymore because it's growing thin. That point includes the upcoming wear for braking over some number of miles that the spec deems to be safe.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,515 Posts
That's right. And I was going by the original thread of "change rotors" so I'm assuming we are not turning.
Also Rotors are cheap, and turning them makes them thinner and easer to warp.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top