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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone
A couple of weeks ago I posted that I was having problems with the fuel gauge saying its full after a free smog:thumbup I started trying to pull the guage cluster out but didn't want to make things worse :whiteflag so this is the best I got
these are readings with the power off







these readings are with the key on







now some of you said I should connect different resistors to the gauge but didn't say to which pins


Please any help is welcome!! I need to get this back together for next weekends trip to Pismo!!:rockon :beer
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok so am I in the ball park of trying to test this? and so now I have to drop the tank to reach the sending unit right?
 

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If you are looking to replace it then yes. its inside the tank. when I got my 88 it showed a full tank but the pump was bad so I had to drop the tank out anyway so I went ahead and picked up the full assembly. good thing I did considering the sending unit's float was either dissinagrated or just missing... gauge works fine now... except its on "E" becouse while I have been working on I failed to relize how much i was running the engine and that the 8 gallons I had put in would run out..lol...
 

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yo,
FYI;

TSB 88-18-03 Fuel Gauge Erratic

Publication Date: AUGUST 31, 1988

FORD: 1987-88 MUSTANG, TAURUS
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1987-88 SABLE
1988 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
LIGHT TRUCK: 1987-88 BRONCO, F-SERIES

ISSUE: An erratic fuel gauge needle when the fuel tank is 1/2 to 1/4 full may be caused by excessive wear of the resistive film on the fuel pump sender assembly. The wear occurs during transporting of the vehicles via rail or truck over long distances. The fuel gauge will indicate correctly from a full tank to about 1/2 or 1/4 tank of fuel. When the fuel gauge needle is below the 1/2 to 1/4 tank range the needle will swing all the way above the full mark on the fuel gauge.

ACTION: To correct this, install a new fuel pump sender assembly. Refer to the appropriate 1988 Car/Light Truck Shop Manual, Section 24 for detailed service information. Refer to the following fuel pump sender application chart for the correct service part number.

Fuel Pump Sender Application Chart
Model Year Application Engine Tank Size Service Part
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1987-88 F-Series/Bronco 4.9L/5.0L All E9VY-9275-A
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PART NUMBER PART NAME
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E9VY-9275-A Fuel Pump Sender Assembly

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
881803A F Series Aft Of Axle Tank 1.2 Hrs.
881803A F Series Midship Tank 0.9 Hr.
881803A F Series Both Tanks 2.0 Hrs.
881803A Bronco 1.2 Hrs.
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Testing in 87-96; Fuel Gauge Moves from E to below E; "...Disconnect the connector at the fuel tank, ground the yellow with white tracer wire (make sure you have a good ground),turn the key on-if the gauge goes to empty, chances are, the fuel sender is the problem. If the gauge doesn't move, then recheck the grounding of the Y/W wire,if it is good then the problem is is forward of the sender (wiring/connectors/instrument cluster)..."
Source: by 85bigbronco at FSB
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Sender Harness Repair in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93172

Float Part Number; Motorcraft COAZ-9202-B
Source: by Chris340 at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75091
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Sender pic in 87-96 Broncos; "...Apparently, this fits all '87-96 Broncos & most '87-97 F-series. List is ~$80 tax from Ford; I paid ~$55 total from Parts Plus...Motorcraft pn PS22"
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/724794
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Sender Float & Resistor Assy. Depiction in 84-89
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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If you need to replace the float, sender and/or pump..etc, consider a Cargo Area Floor Pan Cut-out Panel for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement instead of dropping da Tank; I have a bunch of Links in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=616
 

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Forgot to add; 16 ohms Empty and 158 ohms full
 

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OK... before you drop the tank, at least consider cutting out an access panel instead.

With that said:
If the fuel gauge is reading full (or way past it) at all times, then you are running an open circuit.
I am not sure about your 87 but on my 92, it is the yellow lead which controls the fuel gauge. In my case, the lead had actually fallen off of the sending unit.
Check this out.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177433
In the very first picture, you can see where the yellow wire pulled away from the eletrical lead causing the circuit to run open.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks miesk5 I'll give this a try
Testing in 87-96; Fuel Gauge Moves from E to below E; "...Disconnect the connector at the fuel tank, ground the yellow with white tracer wire (make sure you have a good ground),turn the key on-if the gauge goes to empty, chances are, the fuel sender is the problem. If the gauge doesn't move, then recheck the grounding of the Y/W wire,if it is good then the problem is is forward of the sender (wiring/connectors/instrument cluster)..."
Source: by 85bigbronco at FSB

Redwagon did they do the tank pressure test when you had it smogged?
yes they did. but to be honest it was moving back and forth before the test now it just stays past full even though its on empty now (it ran out of gas 2 house away:banghead:doh0715:)
 

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Guarantee when they pressure tested the tank, they screwed up the sending unit.
:stupid
If it was moving back and forth, then the connection might have been loose already and just hitting it back and forth.
Pressure test might have finished up the looseness.

Drop tank or access panel.
Your choice.
 
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