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Engine Hesitation/Surge with No DTCS in 5.0 & 5.8 Engines & with DTC 179 in 4.9 Engines TSB 95-2-10 for 91-92 Bronco & 91-94 F & E Series
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10
Heater Core Leak Test Procedure TSB 89-14-9 for 88-89 Bronco, Aerostar, Bronco II, Ec
PUBLICATION DATE: July 14, 1989
FORD
1988-89 Crown Victoria, Escort, Festiva, Mustang, Probe, Taurus, Tempo, Thunderbird
LINCOLN-MERCURY
1988-89 Continental, Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mark VII, Sable, Topaz, Town Car, Tracer
LIGHT TRUCK
1988-89 Aerostar, Bronco, Bronco II, Econoline, F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger
ISSUE Heater cores may be misdiagnosed and replaced unnecessarily. An inadequate seal between the heater core tubes can allow coolant to follow the tube to the heater core and appear as a leak.
ACTION If a heater core leak is suspected, use the following inspection and core leak testing procedure.
Inspection
Look for evidence of coolant leakage at the hose to heater core attachments. A coolant leak at the hose could follow the heater core tube to the core and appear as a leak in the heater core.
Check the system for loose heater hose clamps. The clamps should be tightened to 16-22 lb.in. (1.8-2.5 N-m).
If leakage is found and the hose clamps are tight, check the heater core tubes for distortion or evidence of being bent out of shape. Severe distortion of the tubes by such things as over-torqued clamps could cause leakage at the hose connection.
Pressure Test - Heater Core In Vehicle
Drain the coolant from the cooling system.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
Install a short piece of heater hose (approximately 4 inches or 10 cm. long) on each heater core tube.
Prepare the heater core as follows:
Fill the heater core and hoses with water.
Install plug BT-7422-B and adapter BT-7422-A from Rotunda model 021-0012 or equivalent in the hose ends, Figure 1.
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Secure the hoses, plug and adapter with hose clamps.
Air pressure test the heater core as described below:
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Attach the pump and gauge assembly Rotunda model 021-0012 or equivalent to the adapter, Figure 2.
Close the bleed valve at the base of the gauge.
Pump 30 psi of air pressure into the heater core, Figure 3.
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Observe the pressure gauge for a minimum of three minutes. The pressure should not drop.
If the pressure does not drop, no leaks are indicated.
If the pressure drops, check the hose connections to core tubes for leaks. If the hoses do not leak, remove the heater core from the vehicle and perform the bench air pressure test.
Pressure Test - Heater Core On Bench, Out Of Vehicle
Drain all coolant or water from the heater core.
Connect the four inch test hoses with the plug and adapter to the core tubes.
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Connect the air pump and gauge assembly to the adapter, Figure 4.
Apply 30 psi of air pressure to the heater core with Rotunda model 021-0012 or equivalent.
Submerge the heater core in water.
If a leak is observed, service or replace the heater core as necessary.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: None
SUPERSEDES: 87-12-4
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only
OASIS CODES: 2600, 2620
PUBLICATION DATE: July 14, 1989
FORD
1988-89 Crown Victoria, Escort, Festiva, Mustang, Probe, Taurus, Tempo, Thunderbird
LINCOLN-MERCURY
1988-89 Continental, Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mark VII, Sable, Topaz, Town Car, Tracer
LIGHT TRUCK
1988-89 Aerostar, Bronco, Bronco II, Econoline, F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger
ISSUE Heater cores may be misdiagnosed and replaced unnecessarily. An inadequate seal between the heater core tubes can allow coolant to follow the tube to the heater core and appear as a leak.
ACTION If a heater core leak is suspected, use the following inspection and core leak testing procedure.
Inspection
Look for evidence of coolant leakage at the hose to heater core attachments. A coolant leak at the hose could follow the heater core tube to the core and appear as a leak in the heater core.
Check the system for loose heater hose clamps. The clamps should be tightened to 16-22 lb.in. (1.8-2.5 N-m).
If leakage is found and the hose clamps are tight, check the heater core tubes for distortion or evidence of being bent out of shape. Severe distortion of the tubes by such things as over-torqued clamps could cause leakage at the hose connection.
Pressure Test - Heater Core In Vehicle
Drain the coolant from the cooling system.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
Install a short piece of heater hose (approximately 4 inches or 10 cm. long) on each heater core tube.
Prepare the heater core as follows:
Fill the heater core and hoses with water.
Install plug BT-7422-B and adapter BT-7422-A from Rotunda model 021-0012 or equivalent in the hose ends, Figure 1.
Secure the hoses, plug and adapter with hose clamps.
Air pressure test the heater core as described below:
Attach the pump and gauge assembly Rotunda model 021-0012 or equivalent to the adapter, Figure 2.
Close the bleed valve at the base of the gauge.
Pump 30 psi of air pressure into the heater core, Figure 3.
Observe the pressure gauge for a minimum of three minutes. The pressure should not drop.
If the pressure does not drop, no leaks are indicated.
If the pressure drops, check the hose connections to core tubes for leaks. If the hoses do not leak, remove the heater core from the vehicle and perform the bench air pressure test.
Pressure Test - Heater Core On Bench, Out Of Vehicle
Drain all coolant or water from the heater core.
Connect the four inch test hoses with the plug and adapter to the core tubes.
Connect the air pump and gauge assembly to the adapter, Figure 4.
Apply 30 psi of air pressure to the heater core with Rotunda model 021-0012 or equivalent.
Submerge the heater core in water.
If a leak is observed, service or replace the heater core as necessary.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: None
SUPERSEDES: 87-12-4
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only
OASIS CODES: 2600, 2620
4
E40DTransmission Diagnostic & Repair Process Chart TSB 91-6-4 for 90-91 Bronco, etc.
E40DTransmission Diagnostic & Repair Process Chart TSB 91-6-4 for 90-91 Bronco, 89-91 Econoline & F SERIES, 91 Taurus & Escort & 89-91 Probe
Source: by FORD via miesk5
ISSUE An Electronic Transmission Repair Process Chart has been developed for service use. The addition of electronic controls to automatic transmissions (E40D, AXODE, 4EAT, etc.) adds to the complexity of diagnosis and repair. Avoiding repeat repairs depends on properly identifying all the root causes of the concern.
ACTION Use the Electronic Transmission Repair Process Chart, Figure 1, to assist you in developing a routing system for electronically controlled transmission repairs. Using this routing chart will help in determining the "root cause" for the concern and repeat repairs.
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E40DTransmission Diagnostic & Repair Process Chart TSB 91-6-4 for 90-91 Bronco, 89-91 Econoline & F SERIES, 91 Taurus & Escort & 89-91 Probe
Source: by FORD via miesk5
ISSUE An Electronic Transmission Repair Process Chart has been developed for service use. The addition of electronic controls to automatic transmissions (E40D, AXODE, 4EAT, etc.) adds to the complexity of diagnosis and repair. Avoiding repeat repairs depends on properly identifying all the root causes of the concern.
ACTION Use the Electronic Transmission Repair Process Chart, Figure 1, to assist you in developing a routing system for electronically controlled transmission repairs. Using this routing chart will help in determining the "root cause" for the concern and repeat repairs.
Clock, Digital Electronic Info Compendium
I haven't seen any new for sale anywhere;
Neither LMC or NPD shows it
but Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has a used Instrument Cluster, 80-86 Our Price: $75.00
@ http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo.../bronco/i-37120-instrument-cluster-80-86.html
But no clock either
Ford Motorcraft site does not have it either. So I couldn't retrieve a PN.
so as a pal once advised; "Your local junkyard, salvage yard, pull-a-part....etc. However, be warned...I went thru 10 before I found that one that works. But at the same time, if you carefully disect it (you'll see the screws * tiny bolt-heads on the back) and spray the circuit board with electrical cleaner, that resurected several that I had collected.."
so try that electrical cleaner tip.
& he wrote;
There are two seperate digital clocks.
1980-1982
1983-1986
Altho the 82 is wired for a clock, and other accessories from the factory, the plug at the bottom of the dash (just behind and below to the right of the climate or heater control) is different because of the year differences above.
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Setting in an 81 F Series, from Owner's Manual; "...1980-1982 are the same. If you notice it explains the clock functions as I described earlier. On 1980-1982 you need a ball point pen. Pull out the time button untill it locks, then use the ball point pen to press the recessed switches on the right. When the time is set, press the time button in untill it locks. The date button is set with the same proceedure. The E-Time button is reset by pulling it out untill it reads zero. If it doesn't pull out on the first attempt, press it in and try again. 1983-1986 is covered in the manual posted above. the harness plugs are different between the 1980-1982 clocks and the 1983-1986 clocks, so they cant be easily swapped out. You can get the plug off the main harness of a 1983-1986, and use the clock extention, if you remove the wires from the two plugs on the 1980-1982 type, and transfere it to the new 1983-1986 type plug. The wires will remove from the plugs without cutting. To get the headlamp on warning buzzer, and underdash courtesy lamps, you have to find one for a 1980-1982, or adapt the harness from a 1983. On the 1984-1986 the headlamp warning buzzer wires is a part of the main harness and cant be used, because the 1984-1986 headlamp warning and seat belt buzzer is one unit. 1980-1983 they are two seperate buzzers. On the 1980-1982 the courtesy lamp harness and clock harness plugs are two seperate plugs. The 1983. they are combined into one plug, but two seperate harnesses, and the 1984-1986 the headlamp buzzer is wired into the main harness. the clock is already prewired in the main harness of the truck. The clock was an option on all trim levels, so all trucks have the wiring in the main harness. What you are missing is the harness extentions from the main harness to the top of the dash. Look at the bottom of the dash, just below the heater control panel. you should see two empty plugs with nothing plugged into them. Those are for the clock and the courtesy lamp group. This is where the short wiring harness for the clock and the courtesy lamp group plugs in, and from there goes to the top of the dash where the other end plugs in the clock. So to transplant a clock from another 1980-1982 truck into your 1981, you would need the clock, and the short clock harness that plugs into those empty plugs at the bottom of your dash. It's not comon practice to change production methods during the same year model, but it does happen from time to time. The 1981 in paticular has many different changes throughout its production year, but the clock isn't one of them..."
Setting; "...hold down the time button and then push the little round ones. one is hours, the other minutes, and the hours are AM/PM; sometimes you ahve to push the buttons and wiggle them around a little. Guessing it has to do with age, corrosion, and wiping it away to make a good contact...""
Source: by Hoxviii at FSB
Wiring Diagram in an 84 (diagram #4)
Source: by toddcomputer.com
Another tip by Steve83
"The button contacts just corrode on their surfaces. You have to sort of "grind" the little buttons sideways & in a circle to wear through it, and then they'll work again for a long time. You could remove, disassemble, & clean/replace them, but I have a few working clocks in the junkheap"
I haven't seen any new for sale anywhere;
Neither LMC or NPD shows it
but Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has a used Instrument Cluster, 80-86 Our Price: $75.00
@ http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo.../bronco/i-37120-instrument-cluster-80-86.html
But no clock either
Ford Motorcraft site does not have it either. So I couldn't retrieve a PN.
so as a pal once advised; "Your local junkyard, salvage yard, pull-a-part....etc. However, be warned...I went thru 10 before I found that one that works. But at the same time, if you carefully disect it (you'll see the screws * tiny bolt-heads on the back) and spray the circuit board with electrical cleaner, that resurected several that I had collected.."
so try that electrical cleaner tip.
& he wrote;
There are two seperate digital clocks.
1980-1982
1983-1986
Altho the 82 is wired for a clock, and other accessories from the factory, the plug at the bottom of the dash (just behind and below to the right of the climate or heater control) is different because of the year differences above.
Setting in an 81 F Series, from Owner's Manual; "...1980-1982 are the same. If you notice it explains the clock functions as I described earlier. On 1980-1982 you need a ball point pen. Pull out the time button untill it locks, then use the ball point pen to press the recessed switches on the right. When the time is set, press the time button in untill it locks. The date button is set with the same proceedure. The E-Time button is reset by pulling it out untill it reads zero. If it doesn't pull out on the first attempt, press it in and try again. 1983-1986 is covered in the manual posted above. the harness plugs are different between the 1980-1982 clocks and the 1983-1986 clocks, so they cant be easily swapped out. You can get the plug off the main harness of a 1983-1986, and use the clock extention, if you remove the wires from the two plugs on the 1980-1982 type, and transfere it to the new 1983-1986 type plug. The wires will remove from the plugs without cutting. To get the headlamp on warning buzzer, and underdash courtesy lamps, you have to find one for a 1980-1982, or adapt the harness from a 1983. On the 1984-1986 the headlamp warning buzzer wires is a part of the main harness and cant be used, because the 1984-1986 headlamp warning and seat belt buzzer is one unit. 1980-1983 they are two seperate buzzers. On the 1980-1982 the courtesy lamp harness and clock harness plugs are two seperate plugs. The 1983. they are combined into one plug, but two seperate harnesses, and the 1984-1986 the headlamp buzzer is wired into the main harness. the clock is already prewired in the main harness of the truck. The clock was an option on all trim levels, so all trucks have the wiring in the main harness. What you are missing is the harness extentions from the main harness to the top of the dash. Look at the bottom of the dash, just below the heater control panel. you should see two empty plugs with nothing plugged into them. Those are for the clock and the courtesy lamp group. This is where the short wiring harness for the clock and the courtesy lamp group plugs in, and from there goes to the top of the dash where the other end plugs in the clock. So to transplant a clock from another 1980-1982 truck into your 1981, you would need the clock, and the short clock harness that plugs into those empty plugs at the bottom of your dash. It's not comon practice to change production methods during the same year model, but it does happen from time to time. The 1981 in paticular has many different changes throughout its production year, but the clock isn't one of them..."
Setting; "...hold down the time button and then push the little round ones. one is hours, the other minutes, and the hours are AM/PM; sometimes you ahve to push the buttons and wiggle them around a little. Guessing it has to do with age, corrosion, and wiping it away to make a good contact...""
Source: by Hoxviii at FSB
Wiring Diagram in an 84 (diagram #4)
Source: by toddcomputer.com
Another tip by Steve83
"The button contacts just corrode on their surfaces. You have to sort of "grind" the little buttons sideways & in a circle to wear through it, and then they'll work again for a long time. You could remove, disassemble, & clean/replace them, but I have a few working clocks in the junkheap"
Diagnostic & Repair Process Chart TSB 91-6-4 for 90-91 Bronco, 89-91 Econoline & F SERIES, 91 Taurus & Escort & 89-91 Probe
Fake Oil Pressure Gauge TSB 88-05-14 for 87-88 Bronco & F Series
Excerpt;
TSB 88-05-14 Fake Oil Pressure Gauge
LIGHT TRUCK: 1987-88 F-SERIES, BRONCO
ISSUE: An oil pressure gauge that indicates an erratic or low reading when the engine oil pressure is within specification may be caused by the oil pressure sender. The oil pressure sender may not work properly with the magnetic oil pressure gauge.
ACTION: To correct this, install a new design oil pressure switch and new design resistor wire assembly using the following service procedure. Refer to the oil pressure switch and resistor wire application chart for the correct service parts.
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH AND RESISTOR WIRE APPLICATION CHART
Engine Application Description Service Part No.
5.0L, 5.8L, 7.3L and 7.5L Oil Pressure Switch E6SZ-9278-A
4.9L Oil Pressure Switch E8TZ-9278-A
All Resistor Wire Assembly E6SZ-9F291-A
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Remove the existing oil pressure sender.
2. Install the new design oil pressure switch. Torque oil pressure switch to 10-18 lbs-ft (13-34 N-m).
3. Connect the female terminal end of the 20 ohm resister wire assembly to the oil pressure switch.
4. Connect the male terminal end of the 20 ohm resistor wire assembly to the vehicle wire harness.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
E6SZ-9278-A Oil Pressure Switch
E8TZ-9278-A Oil Pressure Switch
E6SZ-9F291-A Resistor Wire Assembly
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
880514A 0.4 Hr.
Excerpt;
TSB 88-05-14 Fake Oil Pressure Gauge
LIGHT TRUCK: 1987-88 F-SERIES, BRONCO
ISSUE: An oil pressure gauge that indicates an erratic or low reading when the engine oil pressure is within specification may be caused by the oil pressure sender. The oil pressure sender may not work properly with the magnetic oil pressure gauge.
ACTION: To correct this, install a new design oil pressure switch and new design resistor wire assembly using the following service procedure. Refer to the oil pressure switch and resistor wire application chart for the correct service parts.
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH AND RESISTOR WIRE APPLICATION CHART
Engine Application Description Service Part No.
5.0L, 5.8L, 7.3L and 7.5L Oil Pressure Switch E6SZ-9278-A
4.9L Oil Pressure Switch E8TZ-9278-A
All Resistor Wire Assembly E6SZ-9F291-A
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Remove the existing oil pressure sender.
2. Install the new design oil pressure switch. Torque oil pressure switch to 10-18 lbs-ft (13-34 N-m).
3. Connect the female terminal end of the 20 ohm resister wire assembly to the oil pressure switch.
4. Connect the male terminal end of the 20 ohm resistor wire assembly to the vehicle wire harness.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
E6SZ-9278-A Oil Pressure Switch
E8TZ-9278-A Oil Pressure Switch
E6SZ-9F291-A Resistor Wire Assembly
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
880514A 0.4 Hr.
DTC P1742 TSB 96-6-9 for 96 Bronco & F Series; Application Chart; "...The Check Engine lamp may illuminate and a Code P1742 may be stored in memory. There may be no driveability concerns present. This may be caused by an improper signaling within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). ACTION: Reprogram or replace the PCM. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details..."
Source: by Ford via diesel-central.com via miesk5 at broncolinks.com
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Source: by Ford via diesel-central.com via miesk5 at broncolinks.com
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