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Thought I would share the alignment specs that worked for me on my 83 Bronco with 4" lift. I own a shop which gives me access to an alignment machine to play with.

Camber 0 (or as close to 0 as you can get)
Caster 6 (3.75-6.5 range)
Toe 0.10


Tips.
  1. In most shops alignments are an entry level position. The tech loads the vehicle into the system and does what's on the screen. Hate to admit most do not understand the whole process. They will most likely not have specs for your lifted vehicle. Try to find an experienced shop and expect to pay a fair rate to do the job. Tips below on how to keep it as cheap as possible.
  2. These vehicles can be a pain in the ass to align so if you want to save money do every thing you can to make life easier for the tech. Most older vehicle require torches and leverage to even loosen the tie rod end tubes. Take the time to make sure that the tie rod tubes spin freely this may require complete removal and reinstallation of the tube. Be sure to count the exposed threads and return the tube back to where it was. Fluid film is your friend here.
  3. The hardest part of this process is adjusting the camber/caster as changing one spec affects the other as you turn the alignment cone. Same ideas apply here actually remove the cone and make sure that the hole is clean and the cone can spin freely. Depending on your vehicles condition different cones will be required. Ideally if you can install a zero degree cone (Specialty products 23109) so when you go to get an alignment the tech will know exactly which cone to install to correct your vehicles situation. Personally I installed a 24130 cone that allowed me to adjust camber and caster independent of each other.
  4. If you paid a fair rate up front and you are not happy with the alignment take it back after the test drive and ask for it to be rechecked. To be clear this is not a basic $100-$149 vehicle to align. Changing cones etc. takes time and time is money. I have charged up to $115 per side to just change out the stuck cones most are closer to $50 per side to install and adjust the cone on top of the alignment rate. If the tie rods are seized time will be charged for that too. So if everything goes well and cones are required charges could be $149 alignment $100 to install and adjust cones and another $100 to purchase the cones so $350 CDN for a proper alignment. Prices vary as does quality of alignment.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Appreciate the professional input. It is getting tougher to find a competent shop to align the TTB. Most have no clue that castor and camber change depending on whether you are in forward or reverse. Even putting the vehicle in park and letting it roll back to engage the parking pawl will affect the camber and castor.

Its gotten to the point that i just do it myself. I can adjust camber just by eye, confirmed by a check after. A tape measure and good long level is all that I need to make absolute sure. It drives straight, no input needed, at 70 mph. Thats with a 6" lift, 1985 factory rear leaf springs, no sway bars, and as low as 25psi in the swampers.

Ive always used the Moog K80108 or Napa Premium equivalent adjustable camber bushings. They each work a bit different, but operate on the same principle.
 
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I also do my own front end alignments on the Bronco. The place where my son works has all of the expensive shop tools for tires/wheels and alignments. He runs the frame machines there and has a week long waiting list. I installed poly bushings everywhere along with new balljoints tierods and wheel bearings. I only have leveling springs in the front but this is enough to put the adjustable bushings at their limit. Wider tires need 0 camber and all the caster that you can get for hiway use.
Thanks for the tips and some current pricing. Who says old trucks are cheap to drive?
 
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