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Discussion Starter #1
I am gatherin' information at this point and do not expect to install the go fast stuff till Spring.

My intent is to swap the go fast stuff over from my old build:

World Products Windsor Sr. heads (200cc int. run 2.02int 1.60exh.), Crane roller cam 364215 (Lobe center 112, duration 260int 270exh .445int & .470ex) Comps Rollin' rockers, Lightning 90mm high flow MAF, 42lb inj., 2.2l Kenne Bell Twin Screw Blower at 8lbs of boost, 75mm accufab throttle body, BBK in-line 50gph fuel pump, JBA Stainless Shorties, Bassani "Y" pipe 3" Stainless exhaust, and big Thrush glass pack muffler. It was TwEECer tuned utilizing an A3M1(A9L) for engine management for the manual tranny I ran.

This rig is speed density and has an E4OD. The WAY1 and a Fireguy/Fordfuelinjection conversion harness is what I will use for a MAF Upgrade. They are EEC-IV/MAF/E4OD/OBD-I, which only requires the existing single Oxygen Sensor and they have a J3 Port for the Tweecer.
Model Year Type Litres Part No Strategy Catch Code Hardware
F-SERIES 95 V8 5.0L F5 VEX1 WAY1 SMD-272

I'll search for a 1995/Ford Truck-F150/Computer Box Engine/AT,E4OD,FED. The WAY1 is programmed for a black remote mount CCD TFI ICM.
EDIT: I found a FLY1 which uses the AHACA strategy, is for a 351W/A4OD and is supported by Tweecer. It seems any computer with the hardware code/Family code of SMD-272 will work, but I'd check it with Mike Glover of Tweecer.:thumbup: I called him, read the EEC, e-mailed him the file and he was back in a flash with an answer.


I have read that cooling is one of the biggest issue with an A4OD and tuning with a better valve body or kit for shift is pretty accepted. I can see the hardware upgrade to the tranny, but I want to have at least a couple of shift tunes, one for performance and one for mileage. I believe shift points and torque converter lock-up can be adjusted and the Tweecer allows for four different tunes.

I have Tweeced for primarily running in open loop with no data logging. I should upgrade to a RT and a wideband to meet my objectives for better mileage and emissions. I had a 302 with Powerdyne blower, 351W with Kenne Bell 2.2l blower, 393W with said blower and now am going back to a 351W in this rig. It's almost a thousands pounds lighter and on 31's so should be plenty fast.

I found a strategy here which should detail transmission controls for the A4OD: http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=14111 There is a downloadable PDF.

I have set Cal Edit, the Tweecer tuning/EEC program editor to the Vex1 Strategy and have only started to look at it and the above referenced LHBH1 strategy for how to tweec the tranny. I am happy to share tunes with Tweecer users and have a head start on this with prior tunes.

I'll share more as I do the install and gather more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I have had a quick read through the Transmission section for the A4OD. It's overwelming but I am sure tuning it will come down to a few changes, like shift rpm, TV pressure, and torque converter lock-up.

Some pics of the fun to be had with parts mentioned above and 8lbs of boost
:


Old install:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Updated Desktop Dyno 2000 power curves for this build. Desktop Dyno 2000 is 13% optimistic, so about 430ftlbs of torque and 350 horses at the Flywheel. Notice the torque is there at low rpm to move a heavy truck and that it is a relatively flat torque curve.




 

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Swat,

I have a similar setup on my Bronco and have experienced a few air intake leaks below the KB. Since you have it off, I would recommend installing a Bypass valve to prevent boost surge coming off WOT. I bought one from Superchargers on line. It's similar to the Bosch bypass but is billet aluminum and can be serviced from the top. I tapped into the lower intake under the KB with a 1" tap and connected the Bypass valve with 1" copper pipe back to the upper intake above the KB. I would also stay away from the Vex1 strategy in the open forum as it has known software bugs. Sailorbob on EEC tuning org sells an AHACB strategy for $25 which is very complete if it matches your ECU.https://www.supermotors.net/registry/24066
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the post! I am open to advice and or questions.

The KB I got came with a bypass. I ran it on my previous build without leaks. I will be sure to check into the strategy I use in more detail. I need to make a call to Mike Glover, Tweecer man. I haven't purchased an eec yet, still have two A3M1's (A9L's) and could run a trans controller. I know, even on a stock engine the blower will allow it to spin higher and I want shift control if I can get it with a dependable strategy. The VEX1 strategy I loaded on CalEdit for the Tweecer looks to be pretty complete at a glance. I can read a WAY1 EEC once I get it as well.

How much boost are you running?
 

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I'm running up to 9 PSI using a Quarterhorse and innovate wideband to keep things under control. The Vex1 strategy (with issues) is located on the Binary Editor website. I'm not sure if it's the same as the one on the Tweecer website. Some of the capabilities missing were checksum not keeping the engine check light off and no datalogging capability on ECT & ACT, which I find important to monitor on a blown application. Bypass valve is a must have. I did not see it in your pics but glad to hear it's included. I look forwarded to your future updates and pics. Keep at it and you will be rewarded with that distinct whine when it's up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Tweecer comes with a good strategy for the VEX1/WAY1. There is no need for further payment, to buy a strategy, software as with the Moates. I have been told and am sure the Tweecer will work for the VEX1 strategy in allowing me to tune the tranny to my build as well as tuning the engine itself without being a software junky! I was also told I could broaden my search for an EEC-IV to the hardware codes SMD-221 and SMD272.

When I find one I'll post-up the part number.



Much confusion between the Moate's and Tweecer!

You can control both the engine and E4OD with the Tweecer!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I ordered a computer from AutoComputerExchange.com I called them since I wanted to see if they could take my order by the part number and hardware number. They can. so I should get a F5TF-12A650-HB Hardware number SMD272. They use the term "family number" as Hardware number.

$200 Well, better than searching for hours in the yards and better then the prices I saw on the auto store sites.

I have also ordered a MAF conversion harness from Ryan/Fireguy/Fordfuelinjection.com/RJM Injection Tech.

This may come together before next spring.......................
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I know I am not to post MAF conversion stuff here but I am not using a stock MAF so I got to tune for the conversion.

I got my computer and lay-over harness for the MAF conversion yesterday. The computer is from the same family as the WAY1, Hardware/Family code SMD272 but was a FLY1. As you can see below it was a F5TF-12A650-TB and was "supposedly" reflashed to a HB with the VEX1 strategy. I added "supposedly" as the EEC-IV's are not re-flashable. I think they sent me a computer that is compatable. I am told this will work by Tweecer but it uses the AHACA strategy. I also pulled the reman. sticker off of the stock sticker and placed it on the computer.

If we can document other computers that will work we can increase the selection we have.

I am using a 90mm Lightning MAF so will need to load the MAF flow curve and probably will need to increase throttle body flow a bit and perhaps adjust idle Scalers. There may be a few other things, I am just getting into it. The strategy has many differences from the A9L Mustang EEC so it's a new challenge to me.

I hooked-up the Tweecer and read it last night and saved the strategy/bin file. Today I pull and read the stock EEC so I can compare them. Fun, fun, fun!

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm Tweecin'!

The computer I got will work. I had to consult with Mike Glover. It was reflashed but is actually a FLY1 with the AHACA strategy/bin loaded. So I was able to choose that strategy in the Tweecer software and start tuning.

All I did for the MAF conversion is change the MAF Transfer for the 90mm Lightning unit I will use. So now the computer will know how much air flows into the engine by the voltage the Lightning MAF returns. Pretty damn important for air/fuel mixtures.



I have started the driveway tune for the power adders, blower in particular.
 

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WJW much of my former tune applied to the new tune!

Tuning involves changing Scalers, Functions and Tables that the computer uses in its calculations. There are tabs in the Tweecer editting software for each. You don't have to make it more complicated than that!

The basic changes in Scalers I have made:

For 42lb injectors:
Injector Slope High - 42.5
Injector Slope Low - 50.5
Injector breakpoint - 0.00002500
Minimum Injector Pulse Width - .000400
Many use a 302 EEC, no problem, just change it to your CID (331, 393, 408, 427)
Engine displacement/CID - 352


The most important Function:
For a 90mm Lightning MAF
I simply chose the 90mm Lightning MAF from a pick list and loaded it. It's a line graph, a thirty point curve that has "Air Flow" on the "Y" axis and the "Voltage" the MAF meter returns to the computer on the "X" axis. Changes here, from the loaded flow numbers, are not required, though one might come back to the MAF transfer after all else is set-up to make fine adjustments.

Tables (I include a cam swap here as most do so and I can illustrate a "Table" change)

I got an old Crane Powermax roller cam. I had to change the firing order.
Injector Firing Order - 15426378


To get the most from the cam swap one can and should change the Injector Timing Table to match it. It's a more complex change, gets difficult to illustrate here, but can smooth-out the idle and provide the cooling/quenchng action of fuel if done at the right "time" as well as prevent hosing down the cylinder walls. If the exhaust smells like gas at idle, the injector is probably on while the intake valve is open. The Injector Timing Table has "Load" on the Y axis and "RPM" on the X axis with injector timing as the variable you can change. There is a spread sheet that one can use to input the cam specs and get results to fill-in the table.


Those are IMHO the minimum and most basic changes to get you up and running with a naturally aspirated engine and a mild cam swap.


There is much more that can be Tweeced and tweaks for power adders.

Got Headers? Guess what, the O2 sensors are further downstream now. One can adjust the table, "Exhaust Pulse" which tells the computer how far the O2 sensor is downstream of combustion. That's pretty essential to a good read and fuel control.

Got better heads, intake and exhaust? More flow means changes are in order so the EEC knows what you got and you can control spark and air/fuel ratios.

Got boost? I'll run my rig primarily in "Open Loop" to begin with because I been told and have found "Closed Loop" fuel to be too lean. Jumping into boost from the Stoichiometric Closed Loop, 14.6:1 fuel can cause preignition of preposterous proportions! My effort will be to tune it over time with data logging to hopefully get a little mileage in Closed Loop at lower engine loads. I have never data logged and will need to upgrade to the RT model Tweecer and wide band O2. (I get to learn this)


Got an A4OD? You can adjust shift points, converter locks/unlocks, and shift firmness. (I get to learn this)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am done with my garage/driveway tune.

I wanted to pause here, maybe get some feedback? My efforts are to help, keep it simple and I want to be clear as I can. Are yo guys getting some of this?

I am hoping one can see just how simple some of this is and how you can tune to your power adders? :toothless
 

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I am done with my garage/driveway tune.

I wanted to pause here, maybe get some feedback? My efforts are to help, keep it simple and I want to be clear as I can. Are yo guys getting some of this?

I am hoping one can see just how simple some of this is and how you can tune to your power adders? :toothless
You ever consider running e85? With forced induction the extra octane really helps with spark advance/detonation resistance. Not sure how many stations there are in Colorado though.
 

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Swat, I'll be really interested to see how the E4OD tuning works out for you..I'm using the WAY1 EEC with the VEX1 strategy for my Tweecer and it feels like the shift points need some adjusting.
 

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I am done with my garage/driveway tune.

I wanted to pause here, maybe get some feedback? My efforts are to help, keep it simple and I want to be clear as I can. Are yo guys getting some of this?

I am hoping one can see just how simple some of this is and how you can tune to your power adders? :toothless
You mentioned in your original post about FireGuys wiring harness not being set up for an remote TFI. As I understand it there are two different kinds of TFI (gray & black), and either can be located on the dizzy or the remote heat sink. With the obvious better location being away from the engine heat, but what did you end up doing?
 

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For 42lb injectors:
Injector Slope High - 50.5
Injector Slope Low - 42.5
Injector breakpoint - 0.00002500
Minimum Injector Pulse Width - .000400
From what I've read(im still very new to tuning) The high slope should be the actual injector size and the low slope is normally close to equal or a little higher than the high slope.

Just curious about your input...am i missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You ever consider running e85? With forced induction the extra octane really helps with spark advance/detonation resistance. Not sure how many stations there are in Colorado though.
I may look into this, my first thought is that I'd lose performance and I am not sure what would have to be changed mechanically to hold-up to ETOH.

Swat, I'll be really interested to see how the E4OD tuning works out for you..I'm using the WAY1 EEC with the VEX1 strategy for my Tweecer and it feels like the shift points need some adjusting.
I am seriously thinking of doing the install during Christmas Break, depends on the shape I am in and snow conditions for skiing. Spring at the latest? I know I'll be able to spin this engine up faster and to higher RPM and want to shift there for better performance.

You mentioned in your original post about FireGuys wiring harness not being set up for an remote TFI. As I understand it there are two different kinds of TFI (gray & black), and either can be located on the dizzy or the remote heat sink. With the obvious better location being away from the engine heat, but what did you end up doing?
I had one of his Mustang Harnesses with dizzy mount TFI, but I am going with his lay-over harness for this MAF conversion. So in deciding to keep the stock harness it has the 93 remote mount TFI. The 95 computer will be looking for a black TFI unit. I am going to start a thread when I do it.

From what I've read(im still very new to tuning) The high slope should be the actual injector size and the low slope is normally close to equal or a little higher than the high slope.

Just curious about your input...am i missing something?
:doh0715: I changed my post, good catch, my tune was right.

High slope should be close to the actual Inj. size. "Low" slope is what the computer switches too at idle/"low" injector pulse widths. That effectively fires less fuel or the engine would go rich at idle. High slope seems intuitively to be the higher number, it's not! Nor is low the lower number it's "low injector pulse width".


Thanks for the input, replies and interest. I'll be back with more.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I done started the mechanical swap. I sourced a low mileage, 1995, 351W roller engine, stripped it, swapped on my heads, lower Lightning intake, and I am tearing-out the old engine! I thought I might use the existing 93 engine but the lower mileage roller is better, well $500 later it is.

There are plenty of motor swap or rebuild threads, but I got a MAF swap thread here and will post as I go to it:

No work this week and the snow is not that good for skiing....................................Mtn. Bolt will be born!

I'll be back to add tuning info. after I get it in and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am getting transmission code 628 - Excessive Converter Clutch Slippage

That's gonna ruin the tranny or at least the Torque converter.

I have reset the EEC and am going to try a new tune to save the tranny. There is a Function to lock the converter in second, third and fourth gear. No way is this stock converter going to hold-up to locking in second nor third. The Function title is:
Trans_Converter_Lock_2nd (Same for 3rd & 4th)

The function has TP on the X axis and MPH on the Y axis.

I have set the MPH to 80 for 2nd and 3rd gear. I think that will eliminate lock-ups in 2nd and 3rd. Trying it out tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have had short term success with eliminating the torque converter Lockup in 2nd and 3rd. I got code 111 after a couple of WOT pulls (Pass). I'll play more and post back.

Looks like you can increase TV pressure to get more firm shifts as well a the starting RPM to initiate a shift. I won't play with TV pressures yet cause a real firm shift might just take-out what I think is a stock 8.8 rear.

The cam and blower allows this engine to spin-up faster and too higher RPM. I have added 500rpm to the wide open shift point Scalers. remember this is the RPM that the shift starts. I have listed the Scalers & stock RPM shift initiation numbers below:
trans_wot_shift_rpm_12 - 4,100
trans_wot_shift_rpm_23 - 4,250
trans_wot_shift_rpm_34 - 3,850

Can't wait to try it!
 
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