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Discussion Starter #1
well i've been wondering what needs to be done with the driveshaft to make it aligned properly with the differential and T-case like how it was before i lifted it. i'm getting the rear axle spun to fix that part of the problem but i don't know what to do about the T-case. I've heard some people talk about a T-case drop kit but i can find them anywhere online and i'm not even sure what they do exactly. could anyone help me out with this?
 

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You should not have to do anything. Possibly lengthen the shaft but thats it. Did you put the axle shims and blocks in correctly. The blocks have a taper to them so the plane the pinion is on points directly at the t-case output. Be sure those shims and blocks are in right before you do anything else.
 

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Master Bater
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yeah, these arent jeeps, so you dont need a drop for the tcase. just make sure you have a little shim on the rear spring pack AND the stock factory wedge. you shouldnt have any probs at all, even with length.
 

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i used the blocks that came with the kit i got. 4" springs with 2" blocks but it didn't use the factory block with it. might that be the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
but then what about the t-case, theres still a pretty big angle there for the u joints
 

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Cadillac of Men
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once the rear axle is at the right angle, it will help all the angles, at the pinion and the tcase. if it is still a problem, i would get a CV joint for the driveshaft before dropping the case...unless you already have one.

getting the rear axle spun should help as well.
 

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terrible1 said:
but then what about the t-case, theres still a pretty big angle there for the u joints
do us all a favor and add some specs to your sig line

year
engine size

my 86 was perfectly fine with the 6" I put in it .. blocks and add a leafs

I took the lift blocks out due to puking my rear axle out on the trail twice in one day and breaking my u joint in the process ... be ready for that if you actually want to "wheel" it
 

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negative creep
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i was running the wedge and 2.5 blocks and when me and damon put in the add-a-leaf yesterday the longer u-bolts that i was using looked a little bent.

personally i would use the 4" springs and the wedge, that should get you pretty good :shrug
 

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the factory wedge with stacking a lift block on top is just asking for problems. I have seen many bronco's spit this combo out on the trails before.

have the spring perches replaced to correct the pinion angle. All bronco's I have seen came with a CV joint on the rear driveshaft on the TCase so that will not be a problem.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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jopes said:
the factory wedge with stacking a lift block on top is just asking for problems. I have seen many bronco's spit this combo out on the trails before.

have the spring perches replaced to correct the pinion angle. All bronco's I have seen came with a CV joint on the rear driveshaft on the TCase so that will not be a problem.
I agree about the double blocks. And you should have a Double Cardon CV type joint up by the Tcase, single ujoint down by the pinion. So, all you need to do is properly align the pinion pointed upward, but at an angle about 2 degrees less than the angle of your driveshaft.

Example, you measure your drivshaft angle at 18 degrees, so what you are shooting for is to have the pinion angle set at 16 degrees. The main reason for the slight discrepency is to allow some movement in the lower single ujoint. Having a perfect match is not neccessary, and really not what you're after. have also heard that on acceleration the torque tends to pull the pinion angle upward, so again, there is likely a dual benefit to keeping it just below the driveshaft angle.
 
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