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Master Bater
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7,267 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This thread wont have much tech in it per se, but will have various designs of sliders. Started the thread cause i am building mine now, been researching, and there wasnt a single consolidated thread. Ill post mine up when I am done

Post up yours and Add tech if you want/can guys.

Is this guy still around?


glennd_05 said:
I know the rock slider thing has already been done, but i figgured i'd show my design

its all made out of 2x3x.120 rectangular tube and 3x3x.25 angle for the mounting bracket


slider in place measuring for supports

supports cut and tacked in place

just needs the mounting brackets now

finished piece in front of my FSB

all in all the one took my about 10 hours today, but the second one should go alot fastercause i don't have to redesign for the other side, will post pictures of finished product tomorrow

so what do you guys think of it so far

-glenn
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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11,532 Posts
mine




I kinda change up the material depending on how they will get used on a particular rig. I use 2x2 box .120 wall up to .250wall and .120 wall outer 1.5"round tube. Mine have taken all the abuse I can throw at them and have held up great

I might add cage mounts to mine too but not sure on that yet.
 

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Registered
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2,325 Posts
plug ugly said:
how are the sliders tied into the frame? will those mounts hold in a rollowver?
The slider is welded to the frame and then welde to the cage mounts that are bolted throught the body. I have a 12 pt cage all together to the frame and I think it is definitely strong enough for what I do
 

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Premium Member
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10,513 Posts
I have rectangular tubing bolted up under the door sill





Along with these bolted to the frame and welded to the rectangular tubing







Now they are yellow though :music0715

 

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Dustin, how thick are your mounting plates? Also, did you use stainless tubing for the sliders on your truck? (So shiny and nice!)
 
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Similar to Damagers: 3" tubing under the doors and bolted through the thickest part of the door frame, angle iron to the frame, and 1 1/2" square slider. These have held-up to several hard side hits and landings. Bottom view:

I siliconed 1/4 thick rubber on top which doubles as spash guard and step traction.
 

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gone fish'n
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23,567 Posts
sliders, .120 wall, 1.5" tube, 2" square tube.



on the bronco



welded to frame and body





another picture showing the 2 leg support design. As well as showing the only dent I have gotten in the 1.5 year of wheeling on them.

 

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Premium Member
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3,109 Posts
No one has really said anything about this yet. From the research I've been doing, especially in Toyota forums, the hot mounting tip is to position the slider so the main rub rail sits about 1/8" to 3/16" below the body so it doesn't rumble when you're driving and the cab is moving around. That distance will still allow the rail to contact the body when you hit a rock without stressing the mounting pads and frame. Haven't done it yet, but that's how my sliders will be going in.
 

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Master Bater
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7,267 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Larston said:
the hot mounting tip is to position the slider so the main rub rail sits about 1/8" to 3/16" below the body so it doesn't rumble when you're driving and the cab is moving around.
Yeah, i tried to consider this when mounting mine. not sure how much my cab actually flexes with the frame mounted cage, but I know it does move some.
 
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