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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,403 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
Total noob question here:

What is the best way to go about undercoating my rig? It has light surface rust on the frame rails and such but nothing deep or pitted. Is there a way to treat the surface rust before the undercoat without wire-wheeling all the rust off? I would never be able to reach all the nooks and crannies that way.

Thanks guys...
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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2,217 Posts
I'd like to do the same some day, and always wonder the same thing. I think I've read somewhere that pressure washing is a good approach, but you'd need access to a lift in a shop that doesn't mind a bit of a mess.
 

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1996 Bronco XLT 5.8L
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154 Posts
Been looking into this exact thing. Here's something interesting I found that I may give a shot to as the engine and tranny will be out of the truck soon.




Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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1) There are more 'rust converters' out there than you can shake a stick at. Problem is that they require active rust to adhere. sometimes good, sometimes bad results. Easy to swab on
2) POR or an Epoxy (not some of the other 'chassis paint') Its a wicked mess and it acts upon the idea of encapsulation. Epoxy will chip and peel if exposed to sunlight, so a second coat of enamel paint to protect from UV is a good idea....you basically need to paint it twice
3) The New Hampshire Oil Undercoat system. You can even drive in and they will swab it with oil for $250 or so....done. The oil eventually dries up and it makes the undercarriage a mess to work on, but the easiest.

pick your poison, but broncos rot like crazy, you need to pick one
 

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A note about the video above:
This is the FIRST supposed rust remover I have seen that seems to work
All of the popular ones sold here in the US today seem to work ALOT better on tv than they do in my garage !!!!
 

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1996 Bronco XLT 5.8L
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154 Posts
I might have to be the FSB guinnea pig to see if it does what it says.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,318 Posts
Power wash the $#!+ out of it. Lots of dust accumulates on top of crossmembers and body bracing.

Climb under and remove any flaking or scaling rust.

Use a liquid rust converter. Ospho makes good ones.

Use a rust encapsulator, whether a primer under your desired paint or just a direct to metal paint.

I sell Benjamin moore paint so im familiar with their products. P23 low luster or P24 semigloss are the oil base direct to metal products I would use. They can be applied directly over surface rust. They have moderate chemical resistance and are quite durable.
 

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I've taken an oscillating lawn sprinkler and put it under my truck to get rid of most of the mud and stuff off the bottom of the truck. Then I spray it with a good spray degreaser (I use a product called "Spray 9" that my local hardware used to have, it is available from Home Depot online last time I bought a couple of gallons) and put the sprinkler under it again. Move it every beer or so. My '94 came from North Carolina and Virginia, so the frame is pretty clean. If I were to paint it, I'd use POR, the few places I've used it, it has worked well. Just wear gloves and old clothes (or a Tyvek painting suit) that you can throw out when done.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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When I was researching bed liner and came across monstaliner (magnapaints) I read about the rust converter/chassis saver they made and it was pretty impressive. Easy roll on with minimal prep and if it's half as durable as their bed liner product then it'll be a great product imo
 

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Phosphoric acid is a great way to convert light rust.
Power wash first.
After dry, use a squeeze or pressure pump to coat rusty areas with phosphoric acid,but not on your nice concrete driveway. (Etch & Prep at Home Depot is the cheapest I have found and very effective)
After a day or so, it will dry and turn a slightly blacken color.
Rinse again and immediately dry if worried about bare metal flash rust (leaf blower works here)
Once dry, ready for prime and paint.

I have read that if you use phosphoric acid to treat metal, you should avoid using etch primer. Instead, go for an epoxy primer.
 

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I used Corroseal to covert the rust. Then rattle canned Rustoleum 2000* spraycan paint as a topcoat. Worked great, looks good
 

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1986 Ford Bronco, 351w with edelbrock aluminum top end and holly 600.
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Don't put undercoating on it! Use an oil wax type coating. The NH stuff is good I've heard and I use fluid film on mine and it works great. I Spray it with a Shultz gun once a year. You can get the kit for about $100 and it comes with a gun, some extension tubes, a few Spray bottles, and a gallon of FF which will do your entire rig 2 or 3 times. Can you blast it off with a pressure sprayer? Yes. Does it wash off in the rain etc? Over time. But it actually penetrates and creeps and if you Spray it then hit a dusty road it forms a really good rust proof coating.

 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Don't put undercoating on it! Use an oil wax type coating. The NH stuff is good I've heard and I use fluid film on mine and it works great. I Spray it with a Shultz gun once a year. You can get the kit for about $100 and it comes with a gun, some extension tubes, a few Spray bottles, and a gallon of FF which will do your entire rig 2 or 3 times. Can you blast it off with a pressure sprayer? Yes. Does it wash off in the rain etc? Over time. But it actually penetrates and creeps and if you Spray it then hit a dusty road it forms a really good rust proof coating.

Rust-A-vert is better then fluid film imo. Lasts longer, doesn't wash off. Very durable and long lasting... Just saying...
 
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