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1989 Ford Bronco XLT, 5.0 motor, OD Transmission, Manual Transfer Case, Manual Hub Locks, 4.10 Diffs
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2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wiper switch fell apart and shorted out in my 89. It went up in smoke as I was driving and I lost all power except headlights I believe. I had to go to work so I haven't had an opportunity to dig in yet, I'm hoping someone has an idea of where I should start? I just know that it won't start, can't roll up windows, nothing but headlights... And yes the battery is charged... I appreciate any advice or direction that will help get her back on the road as soon as possible... Thank you...
 

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1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
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370 Posts
Check the fusible links in the engine bay. Check all other fuses. Look for scorched wires, anything abnormal looking or smelling. Good luck....I’m no expert but since your batt is good, sounds like a fuse issue. Hopefully the ECM was protected.

Check this thread again, they’ll be others with better advice.
 

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Yo Luckytrucker13,
Welcome!
Does starter crank engine over at normal speed?

Do you hear fuel pump noise?

Most fusible links show a melted, charred insulation when they burn out.
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Location pics in an 85 & 89 (between the starter relay and alternator)"...the first two pics are of an 89 5.0. because of the loom i wasnt able to trace the wires...The second pic is at the starter relay to show you a fusible link wire (the green wire in my fingers you can see at the eyelet there is a black plastic block). the third pic is of my 85. i think that big block is another style fusible link ford used on older stuff (but im not sure)..."


Pics by mrwp819300
All connected to battery side of starter relay. Inspect relay for damage, especially if starter doesn't crank engine.

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1989 Ford Bronco EVTM, Emissions (yellowish/red book cover) & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @
1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Slow scrolling, so download for faster viewing and to see the table of contents, the search feature, etc.

1989 Ford Bronco Dealer Brochure

1989 Bronco Lubricant Specifications by Ford via Gary

Register with VIN to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site


For any Bronco questions, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

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Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)

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1989 Ford Bronco XLT, 5.0 motor, OD Transmission, Manual Transfer Case, Manual Hub Locks, 4.10 Diffs
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2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No crank when I turn the key but she will turn over when I jump the starter relay. Thanks for the responses and advice. I was afraid y'all were gonna confirm what I already knew, I'm gonna have the wire chase n see where it leads me, huh? I'll start digging in here in a bit and hopefully have some luck n get her back on the road today.... Thank you
 

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Yo Lucky,
So we're dealing with the dreaded No Crank issue!
1989 EVTM, Emissions & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @
1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Slow scrolling. Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing (a no-no) then stopping periodically to see which page you're on.
See no crank TROUBLESHOOTING procedure with wiring diagram below.

Battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts at rest with engine off and all lights and accessories off.

STARTER RELAY GROUND; Check for continuity between relay mounting bracket and clean chassis ground. Rust, grime, paint etc interferes with relay contrul circuit.

Pull red/light blue wire push-on connector off of the inner fender starter relay.
Relay pic in an 89 5.8 by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed B) at


With key in start position, should have batty voltage at red/light blue wire. If not, check for voltage at red/light blue wire on Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch), then at ignition switch.
No voltage there in the "start" mode and you have a problem in the wiring, ignition switch, or neutral safety switch.

Since you jumped the two large studs on the starter relay and it cranked over, wiring from relay to starter is good

When you turn the key to "RUN/START" and there's no spring resistance feeling it usually because the actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.
Overview; "...The ignition rod is attached to the upper ignition actuator by a 3/32 x 38 roll pin ($0.12 each) and the rod needs to be straight so it travels enough to trigger the igniton switch but it's a chore to take it off as you need to remove the steering wheel and tear it down to the (Tilt or Non-Tilt) knuckle, usually down when you replace a broken upper ignition actuator. The ignition switch located on the lower part of the steering column has slots so it can be adjusted by loosening the 2 -7/16 nuts and move it up or down but a lot depends on what's wrong up top with some of the other parts, ie: ignition rod, key cylinder, lower igniton actuator and upper igniton actuator. These parts are timed so when you turn the key to RUN they all need to move forward/downward so the rod triggers the igniton switch to START the BKO..."

Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch.

Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch

The ignition switch can be adjusted by loosening the mounting screws, and sliding as described in above link.

 
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