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1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco with 5.8 V8 Automatic, with roll cage. Taylor, Michigan
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there!

So I took my 96 in for a diagnostics, and to have my oil leak looked at. Turns out it was the oil pan and seal causing the leak. The location I took it to has also indicated that my ball joints and hub bearing were also bad.

The main question I have is, do these prices look right to you:

K80026 Upper Ball joint 2 @ $49.14 each
K8195 Lower Ball joint 2 @ $52.53 each
A35 Front Hub Bearing inner $15.24
A37 Front Hub Bearing outer $15.24
701453 Axle Spindle Seal Inner 2 @ $16.08 each
7140455 Axle Spindle seal outer 2 @ $13.54 each
NAT2692 Front Crankshaft seal $22.02
GT-FP07a Oil Pan $127.10
0534506r Oil Pan Gasket $64.39
mgl51372 Oil Filter $8.46
mod5000 5-20 Oil 5 @ $7.99

Labor 9 @ $110.00 each

I'm getting the work done, regardless, as I lack the tools and ability to change the ball joints. Just wondering if that pricing seems correct or if I will need to look for another mechanic for future work.

Thanks everyone.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Parts price seams right for a mechanic so is labor $990 total?
Edit: why 2 each on spindle seals but only 1 each on bearings?
 
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1984 Bronco, 4.9L, C6, 8.8, 44 TTB, 3.54 Gears
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156 Posts
Honestly, a ball joint press (not expensive, or can be rented), and a BFH make light work of "most" ball joint jobs. If you can tear everything down on the front of these trucks to the ball joints, then you can replace ball joints. ;)
 

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1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco with 5.8 V8 Automatic, with roll cage. Taylor, Michigan
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Parts price seams right for a mechanic so is labor $990 total?
Edit: why 2 each on spindle seals but only 1 each on bearings?
Correct. 9 hours of labor at $110 an hour. I don't know on the bearings.

As for tearing down everything on the front of the truck, I don't think I'm there yet, and am still getting all of the tools / things needed to even be able to fully start. Everything I was able to find on researching ball joints was "they suck" and that was from experienced mechanics.

This also is not my current daily driver, we have two leases that are the family vehicles.
 

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1984 Bronco, 4.9L, C6, 8.8, 44 TTB, 3.54 Gears
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Correct. 9 hours of labor at $110 an hour. I don't know on the bearings.

As for tearing down everything on the front of the truck, I don't think I'm there yet, and am still getting all of the tools / things needed to even be able to fully start. Everything I was able to find on researching ball joints was "they suck" and that was from experienced mechanics.

This also is not my current daily driver, we have two leases that are the family vehicles.
They definitely suck. :)

I cannot recommend enough to get Tekton Tools if you're starting out. Their kits are affordable, and they don't skip sizes. So far I've beat on everything I've bought from them and haven't broken anything. That's even putting them on my 3/8" 210ft. lbs. Milwaukee impact.
 

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Correct. 9 hours of labor at $110 an hour. I don't know on the bearings.

As for tearing down everything on the front of the truck, I don't think I'm there yet, and am still getting all of the tools / things needed to even be able to fully start. Everything I was able to find on researching ball joints was "they suck" and that was from experienced mechanics.

This also is not my current daily driver, we have two leases that are the family vehicles.
I mean that 1100 in labor will go a veryyyyyy long way in tools and gear to do the job yourselfz I'd consider it an investment long term. Will save you a lot of money. Ball joints suck but theyre not that bad if you have access to a press, HF sells 10ton presses for 120 on sale.


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1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco with 5.8 V8 Automatic, with roll cage. Taylor, Michigan
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I mean that 1100 in labor will go a veryyyyyy long way in tools and gear to do the job yourselfz I'd consider it an investment long term. Will save you a lot of money. Ball joints suck but theyre not that bad if you have access to a press, HF sells 10ton presses for 120 on sale.


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Ohhh, I appreciate the advise, and doing it myself in the future is entirely possible. The question is mainly for if the pricing is market standard and fair. I'm sure that there will be points in this glorious journey of my 96 Bronco that I will again find something I either think I can't do, or shouldn't do. And when that time comes up if I should go back to this mechanic as they were fair in price, or look for someone else.
 

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Ohhh, I appreciate the advise, and doing it myself in the future is entirely possible. The question is mainly for if the pricing is market standard and fair. I'm sure that there will be points in this glorious journey of my 96 Bronco that I will again find something I either think I can't do, or shouldn't do. And when that time comes up if I should go back to this mechanic as they were fair in price, or look for someone else.
Part prices is fair for sure, hard to say for labor cause every area charges a different amount


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1995 XLT SAS w D44 and D60 rear
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My last quote for just the 4 ball joints was right around 1200. I do not remember what else was included. But one everything is apart the labor for a lot should already be included. In other words the labor to pack bearings is getting to them, but if you have got to the ball joints you have got past the bearings already. At that point it is the parts. It looks like your total of 1500ish is not way off base. What kind of warranty do they offer?
 

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1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco with 5.8 V8 Automatic, with roll cage. Taylor, Michigan
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Discussion Starter #12
My last quote for just the 4 ball joints was right around 1200. I do not remember what else was included. But one everything is apart the labor for a lot should already be included. In other words the labor to pack bearings is getting to them, but if you have got to the ball joints you have got past the bearings already. At that point it is the parts. It looks like your total of 1500ish is not way off base. What kind of warranty do they offer?
Warranty on parts is per the manufacturer. Warranty on labor is 12 months / 12000 miles.
 

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If you’re at ball joints it’s a great time to replace front axleshaft u-joints. And if you do that, you may consider resealing the front diff it has any hint of a leak.

The spindle nuts are a deformed thread locknut which is supposed to be used only once, although consider me guilty.

Brakes, rotors, wheel studs - excellent time if needed.

Im a little concerned the rear main seal isn’t listed. I hope it’s either been replaced recently or confirmed not to leak. You can have a front seal leak and not the rear, but if they’re the same age, a betting man is going to say one won’t be far behind the other. Just FYI really, since I don’t know how they’ll change the pan with engine in. Not much space to go around.

Ball joints are a pain, even renting a press.
 

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well, if you aren't interested in doing it yourself, you need to have a shop you trust. $110 seems a bit high to me. i think $90-$100 is the standard around here. however, if you feel like you can trust them, then it might be worth it.

you might ask if you can bring them the parts. that could save you some money. but, some places don't allow that b/c they make money on the markup.
 

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You mention in your post that the Bronco has a rear main seal leak - but no rear main listed by the estimate? I'm guessing that they found the leak to be the oil pan / gasket itself since they are replacing the pan and the gasket?

Another 'weird" thing - they are listing the front crankshaft seal in parts. Is this a mistake? Are they replacing the rear main seal or not? If they are replacing the front crankshaft seal, that means the balancer is coming off and no listing in parts for water pump, timing cover gasket etc?

If they are replacing the oil pan, the gasket, and the ball joints / bearings - 9 hours of labor is not too bad in my opinion. I'd get more details on WHAT exactly they are replacing. Don't be surprised if the estimate jumps for parts once they get the front end apart.

Me personally, I only like taking things apart once. So if I have to remove an old / factory part that is a wear item - to get to another part, I replace all the wear parts.

Good luck either way.
 

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1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco with 5.8 V8 Automatic, with roll cage. Taylor, Michigan
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Discussion Starter #16
You mention in your post that the Bronco has a rear main seal leak - but no rear main listed by the estimate? I'm guessing that they found the leak to be the oil pan / gasket itself since they are replacing the pan and the gasket?

Another 'weird" thing - they are listing the front crankshaft seal in parts. Is this a mistake? Are they replacing the rear main seal or not? If they are replacing the front crankshaft seal, that means the balancer is coming off and no listing in parts for water pump, timing cover gasket etc?

If they are replacing the oil pan, the gasket, and the ball joints / bearings - 9 hours of labor is not too bad in my opinion. I'd get more details on WHAT exactly they are replacing. Don't be surprised if the estimate jumps for parts once they get the front end apart.

Me personally, I only like taking things apart once. So if I have to remove an old / factory part that is a wear item - to get to another part, I replace all the wear parts.

Good luck either way.
Correct. I was told the pan was rotted out, thus the replacement of the oil pan, gasket, and oil. I told them while they were doing the diagnostics to give it a once over and see what else needed to be replaced as I had recently purchased it and it did not come with a repair log, which found the ball joints. I'll make sure to check over the old replaced parts, and will follow up on the rear main seal as well. It's possible the estimate may go up as they find more thing that might need to be replaced. Knowing the initial estimate in cost of parts and labor is in the correct ballpark will give me more confidence in approving if they find anything else. As long as I get the old parts, shown, so I can see the issues.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Tell them you want the old parts back, that way you can inspect them to be sure they needed to be replaced.
 

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1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco with 5.8 V8 Automatic, with roll cage. Taylor, Michigan
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Discussion Starter #18
Tell them you want the old parts back, that way you can inspect them to be sure they needed to be replaced.
I plan to, they even have a large sign on the wall stating that they do so.
 

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Ohhh, I appreciate the advise, and doing it myself in the future is entirely possible. The question is mainly for if the pricing is market standard and fair. I'm sure that there will be points in this glorious journey of my 96 Bronco that I will again find something I either think I can't do, or shouldn't do. And when that time comes up if I should go back to this mechanic as they were fair in price, or look for someone else.
Yea the markup and labor rates are both reasonable... the dealership here charges 175/ hour, the old guys that have been in business a long time charge $120-150/ hour. Markup is up to the shop, but there is a flat markup fee a crossed the board (minus dealerships, they charge the same for the part weather it’s to an independent garage, a private party, or to the customer out in the bay).
 

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1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco with 5.8 V8 Automatic, with roll cage. Taylor, Michigan
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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you everyone. I appreciate all the insight. Now I just need to wait for the work to be done.
 
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