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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I've been pondering several upgrades for some time now and I'm somewhat stuck as to how I should be ranking the importance.

I'm currently in the process of installing a Redhead Steering Gearbox because the old one is leaking. Apparently it's been leaking for years, according to a slip I found in the glove box.

In any case, the air intake, the engine itself and the entire exhaust system is stock, except for the 6Liter-upgrade I did a couple of months back.
I've been going back and forth over installing a K&N FIPK, a complete exhaust system or an intake manifold. Because I'm working on a budget I can't simply throw money at, but I'll have to make some smart decisions. As far as I understand any upgrade will most likely bring a gain in mpg, hp and/or torque, even if it is only small in number.

The question for me really is what and how do I upgrade most efficiently? I'd be glad to hear any recommendations you guys have, especially if it's been working quite well for you.
 

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TTB FTW
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an intake manifold alone wont be a huge gain(front what I have read),and they are like 600 bux.

I would go with a ghetto K&N,then work on the exhaust,then maybe an electric fan. You are on the right track to getting the best mpg out of it.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10169&highlight=ghetto+K&N

Did you bump the timing when you did the 6liter upgrade?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did indeed. For some reason the previous owner had it at 8*. Noticed a considerable performance gain when bumping it to 12.5.

What I'm trying to do is to build a solid base for later upgrades. So if installing a different air intake is the best first step, I'll probably go with a Summit-K&N FIPK. But I'm not so sure.

For instance, I could also start out with a different camshaft. Or headers to replace the stock manifolds. There are so many options and I'm kind of at a loss here.
 

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I assure you a camshaft is going to be expensive. It may sell cheap, but once you get it all apart you're gonna want to replace the water pump and gaskets and maybe your rocker arms and all kinds of fun stuff once you start opening the motor up. As fas as intakes go, You can build yourself a pretty nice one out of the pvc at Home Depot. It all just depends on how much you want to spend and how much time your willing to commit to it.
 

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You can get a K&N filter that all you need is two short peices of 3" tubes to install. (I used stainless) Then if you really want the best milage, insulate the two rubber intake tubes with some aluminum blanket. Also, duct fresh air from the grill to the filter. I used the stock tube for this, but I think I will be redoing it with a slightly bigger collector. I'm getting about 15 MPG which doesnt sound like much, but I'm running 38's.
 

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Kitteh Commandaar!
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I'd do exhaust personally. Cheap but a PITA sometimes. If you can afford it, do from the headers back ;) Y-pipes been mentioned as the biggest restriction in the exhaust in these trucks. Shorty headers as well would be a step above stock as well.

As far as the intake is concerned, I wouldn't do that K&N setup where you basically replace the stock air-box. Unless you do a custom airbox around it, you are just going to be sucking in warm/hottish under hood air. The stock one gets its air from the grill, which is about as close to "cold air" as you can get IMO.

KC
 

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You can get a K&N filter that all you need is two short peices of 3" tubes to install. (I used stainless) Then if you really want the best milage, insulate the two rubber intake tubes with some aluminum blanket. Also, duct fresh air from the grill to the filter. I used the stock tube for this, but I think I will be redoing it with a slightly bigger collector. I'm getting about 15 MPG which doesnt sound like much, but I'm running 38's.
Not to hijack, but are you saying run a tube from the grill to where the k&n is?
15 MPG with 38's is amazing
 

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Yea,
There's two differnt stock tubes that go from the grill to the air box. One is on top of the rad. It doesnt get much "Ram air". The other goes to the side of the rad for a direct shot from the grill. I got the latter.

Both styles go to a box that would feed your stock filter. I took the top of this box off and laid the K&N on it. (held with a bracket). So the fresh air blows against the bottom of the filter. It would probubly be better to build a box that would seal against the hood. But I read a magazine artical where they tested just a K&N filter under the hood (with no air ducted to it) and they measured a slight increase in mpg.

I have the reflective blanket on the hoses and shorty headers. I have to say the biggest help to millage was the MSD box. But its not so cheap and I've heard of some having trouble with them.
 

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That sounds sweet, and pretty simple. If you could post a picture of it,
i would really appreciate it

-Vance
 

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I recommend that you tune-up the engine and get it running perfectly with no codes before starting any upgrades.

IMHO, an Edelbrock Performer Truck Intake and Headers with a 3" Exhaust w/High Flow Cat is a good start to future upgrades. The stock 5.8L Intake and Exhaust are both restrictive.

Although the K&N FIPK is not recommended by many, I was able to later use the existing air tube and filter with my MAF Upgrade by trimming and adapting it for the Mass Air Sensor.




And, helirich, 15 MPG with 38's is amazing!!!
 

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Vance,
I have trouble posting pics here. I have sevral on the FTE site. (under the same name)

Seattle FSB,
I took a look at your garage. Dam! That truck is built! I've done alot of work on mine, but it pales by comparison. How much do you have in the Currie? I love my full float kit. (no one knows what it is) But, I have a home made truss I dont like. I can see that Currie doesnt need any truss. How does the wave trac work?
 

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Thanks, helirich.

I probably didn't need the full width truss, but after an upcoming bullet proof E4OD transmission, I will be working on the front suspension and steering. Maybe then I can jump a speed bump, or something...

The Currie ran $4600.00 delivered, but it is top-of-the-line for a 9" rear end.

The WaveTrac is a helical gear Torque Biasing Differential which automatically adds more load internally when it’s required. This occurs almost immediately in zero load conditions transferring a 2.5 bias to the traction wheel. Very cool technology that Torsen, Truetrac, Quaife, Peloquin and OBX does not have. Comes with a Lifetime Transferable Warranty and is approved for race and offroad use. See this link for more information on the AutoTech WaveTrac.

Unfortunately, the WaveTrac only comes in 9" 35 Spline for Ford vehicles.

Sorry for the hijack, Dyn4mo. I just wanted to show some upgrade considerations that you asked about.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
IMHO, an Edelbrock Performer Truck Intake and Headers with a 3" Exhaust w/High Flow Cat is a good start to future upgrades. The stock 5.8L Intake and Exhaust are both restrictive.
Well, that's a start. No problem about the hijack btw.
But because I currently don't have the money to buy all those upgrades at once, this would be definitely over $1000, which one would you install first?
I prefer that way because I can see how the part interacts with the rest of the components. Intake first, headers or exhaust, if you had to choose?
 

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Well, that's a start. No problem about the hijack btw.
But because I currently don't have the money to buy all those upgrades at once, this would be definitely over $1000, which one would you install first?
I prefer that way because I can see how the part interacts with the rest of the components. Intake first, headers or exhaust, if you had to choose?
I would upgrade in this order, but again only after you tune-up the engine and get it running perfectly with no codes:

1. Intake
2. Exhaust
3. Gears
4. Heads
5. Cam

Keep in mind that your 1993 5.8L is a Speed Density Pre-Roller block which would limit Cam selection.

See this link: EFI Performance Upgrades
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, it'll be a while before I'm looking at cams. Mostly, that was just a suggestion.

I've been looking at the Edelbrock Performer Package, which includes a whole darn lot. I'd probably exchange the Edelbrock Heads (60399) with the GT-40 Heads but it'd be several months if not next year before I'm able to do that.

However, I'm thinking the intake manifold is a better item to swap then the air intake. Does it make sense to run the Performer without a larger throttle body? Those two will run about 850 by themselves. Incidentally, does anybody know of a cheaper retailer for the Edelbrock 3881 than Summit @ 600?
 
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