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upgraded dome light... info for those interested >>

60772 Views 75 Replies 42 Participants Last post by  GetBent4x4
I got tired of the old, ugly, oxidized, pitted, dull illumination, antique, factory Bronco dome light and ditched it last night... Man, that thing is hideous...

I replaced it with a dome light out of a 95 Mustang... which is TONS better and looks awesome once installed!

For those wondering what one looks like, IF you have never seen one, it looks EXACTLY like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7981266947

It is a DIRECT FIT, DIRECT SWAP, PLUG-N-PLAY, NO MODS NEEDED AT ALL! :rockon

The new dome light has MUCH better lighting qualities, plus the dual map lights are WAY better than the original Bronco map lights... it looks awesome once installed too - gives a slightly more modern look... This unit ROCKS!

EASY Directions for swap/upgrade:

1) remove old dome light lens cover (if yours is still in place, many of them fall off and get lost or broke over the years). To remove it, grasp the lens cover and pull, or, use a small flat head screw driver and pry off the cover. If yours is already missing, you're ahead of the game!

2) Get a Phillips head screwdriver. Looking at the dome light base once the lens cover is removed, there are (3) Phillips head screws. REMOVE all (3). Once the 3rd screw is almost out, grasp the dome light, otherwise it will fall on your head. Remove dome light, stomp on it and throw it away, or resell on eBay for few bucks

3) After old dome light is removed, there *might* be a white plastic triangle spacer still attached to the ceiling OR it may be on the back of the old dome light - you can DISCARD this piece, as it is not needed.

4) Get your "NEW" 94-current Mustang dome light and remove the lens cover. To remove the lens cover, there is a small indentation on the base under the lens cover, use a small flat head screw driver, insert into the indentation area and pry off the lens cover.

5) Hold the new dome light to the ceiling and match up the (3) screw holes (you may need a flashlight or shop light to see through the little holes for alignment).

6) Re-install the (3) screws to secure the new dome light to the ceiling. Test the light out by opening the door, or turning the light knob ON so you have the interior light on with the door closed. if all works out well, re-install the lens cover (it just snaps into place)

:chili:

I purchased a black dome light like the one in the above link - for the same price off of eBay. That is the BEST pricing for them, don't pay any more than $10 for one...

TRUST ME - for those with the older crappy antique dome lights, you'll REALLY like the upgrade!!!!
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massbronco said:
i replaced my chrome one for one like 90beater a few months ago and they worked great but now my map lights dont come on...does anyone know what could be wrong with it now....

my map lights only work if my headlights are on.
They should fit any year FSB. Steve83 can post if they are different. Ford usually doesn't like to change things if they don't have to. I have pulled a few more out of Taurus' and most have the same three screw setup. Others have a different wiring but the screws are still the same.
Here is the typical setup. I removed the grey clips that were in the roof in case they are needed. I had a broken one when I plulled mine off. One is hot, one goes to the door switch. The third screw grounds it out.
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bucknbronc said:
my map lights only work if my headlights are on.
i'll have to try them when my headlights are on
Here is the other style. It uses the same screws but uses a plug to provide the power. It's still built the same so you can forget the plug and use your clips to power it.

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Any of you know where you can buy these dome lights online? (the ebay link in this thread doesnt work anymore, guess since its an old link now)
I don't know why the camera does this, it blends a hella lot better than that and a helluva lot brighter

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bigguy6f4 said:
will they fit on a 86 bronco? my light is absolutly useless
Absolutely !!!!!!

After reading Steve83s posts and taking his, and others advice I........copied the ideas of other people here, read their webpages, got an identical light out of a 95 Taurus wagon and attempted to become the 482nd person here to do it.

You asked, so here's a 86 write up;


http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4970&s=21300#content

Y'all kin also do this too;



Into y'all's backseat ashtrays

and this hee-ahh too;



Presently I's-a-workin' on an overhead cargo light, I purloined out of a Windstar, all into an 86

Sixlitre
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great info and pics guys, thanks for the help. unfortunately i won't get a chance to mess with it till next weekend.
Definitely gotta do this one, its dark in my Truck and I scare real easy.
v8only said:
...the wires off the roof ...then attach them to the dome. ...and i'm blowing fuses like mad. ... I had it working, then it started blowing fuses.
The tips of the power screws have worn thru the paint & are now grounding to the roof. If you had the chrome map dome, the screws DO line up. You might have to cut a plastic peg off the new dome so it fits flat, but it DOES line up with the original screw locations.

massbronco said:
i replaced my chrome one...but now my map lights dont come on.
Probably the connector inside the base of the L B-pillar under the seat belt reel is corroded.
Steve83 said:
The tips of the power screws have worn thru the paint & are now grounding to the roof. If you had the chrome map dome, the screws DO line up. You might have to cut a plastic peg off the new dome so it fits flat, but it DOES line up with the original screw locations.


Probably the connector inside the base of the L B-pillar under the seat belt reel is corroded.


steve, what do you meen tips of power screws worn thru paint? I've got the two screws, one for each wire. They screw into that plug, but never contact the roof. The only one I have screwed into the roof is the lower left one, which I believe to be the ground. FYI, i'm using the second light assmbly shown, the type with the plug.

I guess I'll have to look at it all again to see what's going ont.
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v8only said:
steve, what do you meen tips of power screws worn thru paint? I've got the two screws, one for each wire. They screw into that plug, but never contact the roof. The only one I have screwed into the roof is the lower left one, which I believe to be the ground. FYI, i'm using the second light assmbly shown, the type with the plug.

I guess I'll have to look at it all again to see what's going ont.
What Steve is talking about is the same thing he saved me on 6 years ago

At the base of the B-pillar, inside that access hole under the seat belt retractor you'll find a snake's head of wires. Chances are real good your lime coloured wire, or more, has corroded through.

That's why your spots don't work no more. The other area that is notorious for corrosion is behind the kick panel, under the E-brake. You're looking for this connector;



Chances are good, it too is corroded out. In the pic a decent one is being dipped into baking soda and warm water to clean up the corrosion before it's sealed here;



Good luck reaching the B-pillar, its a real beach ! When I was painting my Bronco last year I had every wire in the body out, so while that harness was out I took the opportunity to lengthen and properly replace the wires running up there. Several times, since I've owned Eddie, I'd had to get into that tiny hole and shorten and repair the corroded wires.

Unfortunately it's a right of passage for Bronco owners. I got sick and tired of living in the glow of a dim orange dome and did what everyone here and upgraded to the better style dome light.

Are all of these okay on your roof ?



I gotta say you'd get a better price staying away from popular vehicles like Mustangs and F-150s and search in amongst the less popular cars, such as that Taurus wagon I scored mine out of.

I didn't stop at the upgraded dome, I was so P.O.d at being in the dungeon I added Lincoln door lights, already had under dash lights. Then I added two extra cargo area lights into the now redundant rear seat ashtrays.

Now I'm sticking a Windstar dome light directly over the rear cargo area, with a disconnect-able wiring harness for when the top is off. I'm mounting it far enough back, that when the glass is down I'll be able to reach in and switch on the two map lights if I want some light over the cargo area when my doors are shut.

It's already lit up like a Nevada whore house and I'm going for more !

Sixlitre
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that bottom connector you show on mine, for the power is broken apart, exposing the inner metal part. However, I could still screw it on, then electrical tape it to prevent shorting out against the roof.

before I started this venture, the dome and side lights worked perfectly. this is what makes me suspect my install.
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Seeing this thread has revived my urge to fix the dome light in my truck. It was there when i bought it (so i can only asume its there from the factory), and it has never worked properly.

Ok, 1996 F250 XLT, XCab.

heres the light:







In the front the green wire goes next to the ground. The black wire is at the back of the light. It is directly behind the ground, exactly like this picture 90Beater posted.
90Beater said:

heres the symptoms:

Dome light works when you turn on the interior lights from the dash switch, or open passenger side door. Does not work from d.s. door.

Map lights only work when d.s door is open :shrug


Is it just wired bass-ackwards?
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Sounds like something's grounding and/or back feeding Reptillikus

If it's any consolation my ds door switch is baked. Happily they all turn on when the ps door is open or whenever I twist the headlight knob (86, still on the dash).

To trouble shoot it put the old POS dome light in and test it.

V8only

These aren't too hard to score out of any Ford vehicle in a junkyard;



Why take a chance on burning your Bronco down with a short ?

Sixlitre
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Sixlitre said:
Sounds like something's grounding and/or back feeding Reptillikus
To trouble shoot it put the old POS dome light in and test it.
Could be. i guess ill have to take my kick panel off and check the door switch.
Cant swap in the old chrome one, as the newer style was arleady installed in the truck when i bought it. Dunno if by dealer or by previous owner.
Sixlitre said:
Sounds like something's grounding and/or back feeding Reptillikus

If it's any consolation my ds door switch is baked. Happily they all turn on when the ps door is open or whenever I twist the headlight knob (86, still on the dash).

To trouble shoot it put the old POS dome light in and test it.

V8only

These aren't too hard to score out of any Ford vehicle in a junkyard;



Why take a chance on burning your Bronco down with a short ?

Sixlitre
you're right, I better do it right.

Does that connector just pull off of the wire, or Is it gonna be a cut and crimp job?
v8only said:
you're right, I better do it right.

Does that connector just pull off of the wire, or Is it gonna be a cut and crimp job?
Haull all you can reach then snip it off

That's AFTER you get the gray plastic bit out intact. Pick tools or real small screw drivers work well. You push in the detent then pull down and out.

Luckily for you, you're in the junkyard and you can practice for free !

Sixlitre
Sixlitre said:
Haull all you can reach then snip it off

That's AFTER you get the gray plastic bit out intact. Pick tools or real small screw drivers work well. You push in the detent then pull down and out.

Luckily for you, you're in the junkyard and you can practice for free !

Sixlitre

first practice session wasn't free, that's how I messed it up yesterday :(
Reptillikus
It's common for the driver's door switch to get some corrosion & stop making contact when the door is open. If you have the old style, you can remove it, disconnect the harness, & spin the connector to clean the contacts inside the switch. The newer style won't spin, so it's either figure out a way to clean it, or replace it. You can see both types in the Doors album in my sig link. The pictures of the switches show another procedure, so just ignore the captions.
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