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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I searched and searched but I only got more confused! Can someone please post a pic as to where the 2 broken lines off of this 3 way tree go?
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I plugged one line where the heat foil is and the other I joined below to a red line. I don't believe it's right..

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Electrical wiring Automotive exterior


Any assistance is appreciated!
 

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1991Bronco 5.8L, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift/SuperRunner, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
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You are right about the line to the heat shield. Under the heat shield is a vacuum reservoir. The line before the check valve should go to the vacuum manifold tree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are right about the line to the heat shield. Under the heat shield is a vacuum reservoir. The line before the check valve should go to the vacuum manifold tree.
Thank you for the reply, I'm glad I got at least one right! When you say the vacuum reservoir are you talking about the coffee can? I figured it was right because because the red stub that was left in place..
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does anyone know of any good links that have pics of where these lines are supposed to go? I just spend 2 hours looking at Steves Supermotor site and nothing!
 

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1991Bronco 5.8L, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift/SuperRunner, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
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Thank you for the reply, I'm glad I got at least one right! When you say the vacuum reservoir are you talking about the coffee can? I figured it was right because because the red stub that was left in place.. View attachment 188545
Under that heat shield, silver insulation is a vacuum reservoir. It is a plastic reservoir that mounts to the evaporator housing. You have it correct. If the other end has the red tube broken off in the nipple then I think you have both ends figured out.
 

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1991Bronco 5.8L, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift/SuperRunner, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
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You may need to change out the vacuum lines to rubber or silicone. That plastic material gets brittle from heat and will break off or crack creating a vacuum leak.
 
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Yo,
95 HVAC VACUUM;
As TheWolf advised onthe PLASTIC HVAC VACUUM TANK glued to the evaporator cover
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by former member Steve83
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Under that heat shield, silver insulation is a vacuum reservoir. It is a plastic reservoir that mounts to the evaporator housing. You have it correct. If the other end has the red tube broken off in the nipple then I think you have both ends figured out.
Something is still off, I just haven't pinpointed it yet. If you look at the pic below it appear the line goes up (By the "5.8"). Mine goes straight down and gets intertwingled with all the other lines.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I know I'm pushing it, but does any one have a (@miesk5 )pic of the "PLASTIC HVAC VACUUM TANK" that is supposed to be glued to the evaporator cover. I feel like I am looking for something that's not there..
 

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Yo
I know I'm pushing it, but does any one have a (@miesk5 )pic of the "PLASTIC HVAC VACUUM TANK" that is supposed to be glued to the evaporator cover. I feel like I am looking for something that's not there..
Yo 95,
I haven't seen (YET) the HVAC TANK PIC YET DUE TO IT BEING MOUNTED DOWN ON THE EVAP, IN THE DARK.
See NAPA GENERIC HVAC VACUUM TANK
Product Font Screenshot Electronic device Technology

IN AT LEAST MY 95-96 HVAC Vacuum Tank Replacement "...The vacuum tank for the heater or heater/air conditioning controls is sonically welded to the side of the heater or evaporator case. If a vacuum leak occurs at the vacuum tank, a different vacuum tank can be used to make the repair without removing the old vacuum tank.
If the hvac tank has a leak, re-route the hoses and add another tank somewhre, such as where the jack is stored. DORMAN has some plastic ball tanks. So does Napa @ https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE..._N7zpgpWcpoHicxN1Q6g-1638893548-0-gaNycGzNDP0

A/C Vacuum Reservoir Tank and Bracket

Removal


  1. Disconnect A/C plenum vacuum harness (18C581) from A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket (19A566), located in the engine compartment above the right wheel.

  1. Working from outside of the engine compartment, remove two nuts from wheel well housing (above tire).

  1. Remove A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket from vehicle.

Installation

  1. Place A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket in its location inside the engine compartment.

  1. Working from outside the engine compartment (above tire), install two nuts retaining A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket to vehicle.

  1. Connect A/C plenum vacuum harness to A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket.

  1. Check system for proper operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay, I still have not found the above HVAC VACUUM TANK. If the connection was not different I would say with certainty it's the part in the 4th picture in the link below! I mean how many vacuum tanks can this truck have! I definitely have the one in post below, the coffee can and apparently there's one more??

I smoke tested the lines and found nothing, I then removed all the lines and visually inspected every single one of them, they where surprisingly in good shape. Everything is back in and the truck runs pretty good. I still have a check engine light that come on after the truck warms up a bit and DTC 311 and DTC 332. I suspect the TAB Solenoid is the culprit at this point!
Road surface Asphalt Art Wood Sidewalk
 

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Yo NY
Is HVAC Switching Between Floor/Mix, Defrost, Norm Air,, Max Air Selections?
Your 95 has vacuum motors for the distribution door.
Vacuum is also used for the recirc motor & al, use cable for the temperature blend door.

If so, HVAC Vacuum system is ok.


DTC 311, "...KC1 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 311: VISUALLY INSPECT VACUUM HOSES
Vacuum hoses damaged.
AIRB/AIRD valve inoperative.
Air Pump inoperative.
AIRB/AIRD solenoids damaged.

miesk5 Note; as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; to help see,
EEC Connector Pin Diagram
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at Wayback Machine

EEC Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8; Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection

****DO THIS FIRST:
KC10 MEASURE AIRB/AIRD SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances.
Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms? if Yes, they are good electrically. ****

DTC 311 indicates the Secondary Air Injection system is inoperative
Possible causes:
Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system.
Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Refer to VECI decal.
Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt. Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement.
Were any problems found?
Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO GO to KC2

KC2 CHECK AIR VACUUM LINES
Carefully check AIR vacuum lines; From AIRB solenoid to AIRB valve.
From AIRD solenoid to AIRD valve.
From Manifold Vacuum TREE to AIRB/AIRD solenoids.
Check for obstructions, cracks, kinks, and leaks, etc.
Are vacuum lines in good condition?

Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO Go to KC 5

KC5 CHECK AIRB AND AIRD SOLENOIDS ELECTRICAL OPERATION
DVOM on 20 volt scale.
Enter Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). Refer to Section 5A , Quick Test Appendix.
Disconnect AIRB solenoid.
Connect DVOM positive test lead to VPWR circuit and negative test lead to AIRB circuit of AIRB vehicle harness connector.
While observing DVOM, depress and release the throttle several times (to cycle output On and Off).
Repeat for the AIRD solenoid.
Does each solenoid circuit cycle 0.5 volt or greater?
Yes GO to KC6.
NO REMOVE jumper GO to KC10 .

KC6 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR INTERNAL VACUUM LEAKS
Remain in output state DTM.
Reconnect AIRD/AIRB harness connector.
Vacuum pump connected to the supply port and vacuum gauge connected to the output port of one solenoid.
Apply 15 in-Hg (51 kPa) vacuum and observe gauge.
Repeat steps above for the other solenoid.
Does vacuum gauge reading hold for each solenoid?
Yes GO to KC7
No REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

KC7 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR VACUUM CYCLING
Continue in output state DTM.
Install vacuum pump to the AIRB solenoid vacuum supply port and install a vacuum gauge to the AIRB output port.
Apply 15 in-Hg vacuum.
While cycling outputs On and Off (by depressing and releasing throttle), observe the vacuum gauge at the output.
Note: Re-apply vacuum between cycles.
Repeat for AIRD solenoid. Connect vacuum pump to the AIRD solenoid vacuum supply port and connect a vacuum gauge to the AIRD output port.
Cycle output on and off.
Does each solenoid cycle vacuum output on and off?
Yes EXIT Output State DTM, RECONNECT vacuum hoses
NO REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

KC10 MEASURE AIRB/AIRD SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances.
Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms?
Yes GO to KC11
NO REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RECONNECT both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test.

KC11 CHECK CIRCUIT CONTINUITY
Key off.
Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at breakout box and AIRB circuit at vehicle harness connector.
Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and AIRD circuit at vehicle harness connector.
Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes GO to KC12
NO SERVICE open harness circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test

KC12 CHECK FOR SHORT TO GROUND
Key off.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoids.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60. Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes GO to KC13 .
NO SERVICE short to ground. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and AIRB/AIRD solenoids. RERUN Quick Test

KC13 CHECK FOR SHORT TO POWER
Key off.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.
Both AIRB/AIRD solenoids disconnected.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 37 and 57. Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test.
NO SERVICE short to power. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and AIRB/AIRD solenoids. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is present, REPLACE PCM.

A vac leak could cause DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected
Listen for a hiss; check hose from EVP back to EVR

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens126 HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ Help with dtc codes and idle

Excerpts: One way to do a quick check is to grab a vacuum gauge. Some parts stores will loan you a gauge with refundable deposit.
The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
The reading should be quite steady. .
When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.

When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.

Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed
EGR valve diaphragm leaks
EVR solenoid sticking closed
Loss of vacuum to or from EVR
Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits
Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible causes: "...Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve,Icing, Damaged EGR valve, Damaged EVR solenoid harness..."
Source: by Ford via SigEpBlue (Steve)
DTC 332 "...Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control)..."
Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B)

DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks EVR solenoid sticking closed Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits ..."
Source: by latechsho at Super High Output

Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."
Source: by SigEpBlue

EVR TESTING; "....check the filter on the solenoid. If this is clogged it will inhibit the venting of the solenoid; "...EVR Solenoids should be 20 to 70 ohms (100 to 135 ohms for 7.5L engines). A functional test can be performed on most applications by using a Scan Tool. Enter the Output State check and cycle the accelerator pedal. This will turn all the solenoids on and off. Using a DVOM monitor the voltage at the EGR solenoid(s). They should toggle from a high voltage to a low voltage. Typically this is stated in the manuals and scan tools as above 10.5 volts to below 2 volts. If the voltage does not toggle make sure that you have system voltage on the power side of the connector. If system voltage is present and the voltage does not cycle to the low side check the connector and wiring to the PCM. If the wiring and connector are okay the problem may be in the pin at the PCM or the driver in the computer itself..." by Tomco.
======
EVP Testing & Replacement @
EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement by Seattle FSB
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yo NY
Is HVAC Switching Between Floor/Mix, Defrost, Norm Air,, Max Air Selections?
Your 95 has vacuum motors for the distribution door.
Vacuum is also used for the recirc motor & al, use cable for the temperature blend door.

If so, HVAC Vacuum system is ok.


DTC 311, "...KC1 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 311: VISUALLY INSPECT VACUUM HOSES
Vacuum hoses damaged.
AIRB/AIRD valve inoperative.
Air Pump inoperative.
AIRB/AIRD solenoids damaged.

miesk5 Note; as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; to help see,
EEC Connector Pin Diagram
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at Wayback Machine

EEC Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8; Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection

****DO THIS FIRST:
KC10 MEASURE AIRB/AIRD SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances.
Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms? if Yes, they are good electrically. ****

DTC 311 indicates the Secondary Air Injection system is inoperative
Possible causes:
Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system.
Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Refer to VECI decal.
Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt. Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement.
Were any problems found?
Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO GO to KC2

KC2 CHECK AIR VACUUM LINES
Carefully check AIR vacuum lines; From AIRB solenoid to AIRB valve.
From AIRD solenoid to AIRD valve.
From Manifold Vacuum TREE to AIRB/AIRD solenoids.
Check for obstructions, cracks, kinks, and leaks, etc.
Are vacuum lines in good condition?

Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO Go to KC 5

KC5 CHECK AIRB AND AIRD SOLENOIDS ELECTRICAL OPERATION
DVOM on 20 volt scale.
Enter Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). Refer to Section 5A , Quick Test Appendix.
Disconnect AIRB solenoid.
Connect DVOM positive test lead to VPWR circuit and negative test lead to AIRB circuit of AIRB vehicle harness connector.
While observing DVOM, depress and release the throttle several times (to cycle output On and Off).
Repeat for the AIRD solenoid.
Does each solenoid circuit cycle 0.5 volt or greater?
Yes GO to KC6.
NO REMOVE jumper GO to KC10 .

KC6 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR INTERNAL VACUUM LEAKS
Remain in output state DTM.
Reconnect AIRD/AIRB harness connector.
Vacuum pump connected to the supply port and vacuum gauge connected to the output port of one solenoid.
Apply 15 in-Hg (51 kPa) vacuum and observe gauge.
Repeat steps above for the other solenoid.
Does vacuum gauge reading hold for each solenoid?
Yes GO to KC7
No REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

KC7 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR VACUUM CYCLING
Continue in output state DTM.
Install vacuum pump to the AIRB solenoid vacuum supply port and install a vacuum gauge to the AIRB output port.
Apply 15 in-Hg vacuum.
While cycling outputs On and Off (by depressing and releasing throttle), observe the vacuum gauge at the output.
Note: Re-apply vacuum between cycles.
Repeat for AIRD solenoid. Connect vacuum pump to the AIRD solenoid vacuum supply port and connect a vacuum gauge to the AIRD output port.
Cycle output on and off.
Does each solenoid cycle vacuum output on and off?
Yes EXIT Output State DTM, RECONNECT vacuum hoses
NO REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

KC10 MEASURE AIRB/AIRD SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances.
Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms?
Yes GO to KC11
NO REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RECONNECT both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test.

KC11 CHECK CIRCUIT CONTINUITY
Key off.
Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at breakout box and AIRB circuit at vehicle harness connector.
Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and AIRD circuit at vehicle harness connector.
Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes GO to KC12
NO SERVICE open harness circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test

KC12 CHECK FOR SHORT TO GROUND
Key off.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoids.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60. Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes GO to KC13 .
NO SERVICE short to ground. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and AIRB/AIRD solenoids. RERUN Quick Test

KC13 CHECK FOR SHORT TO POWER
Key off.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.
Both AIRB/AIRD solenoids disconnected.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 37 and 57. Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test.
NO SERVICE short to power. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and AIRB/AIRD solenoids. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is present, REPLACE PCM.

A vac leak could cause DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected
Listen for a hiss; check hose from EVP back to EVR

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens126 HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ Help with dtc codes and idle

Excerpts: One way to do a quick check is to grab a vacuum gauge. Some parts stores will loan you a gauge with refundable deposit.
The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
The reading should be quite steady. .
When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.

When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.

Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed
EGR valve diaphragm leaks
EVR solenoid sticking closed
Loss of vacuum to or from EVR
Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits
Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible causes: "...Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve,Icing, Damaged EGR valve, Damaged EVR solenoid harness..."
Source: by Ford via SigEpBlue (Steve)
DTC 332 "...Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control)..."
Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B)

DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks EVR solenoid sticking closed Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits ..."
Source: by latechsho at Super High Output

Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."
Source: by SigEpBlue

EVR TESTING; "....check the filter on the solenoid. If this is clogged it will inhibit the venting of the solenoid; "..EVR Solenoi.ds should be 20 to 70 ohms (100 to 135 ohms for 7.5L engines). A functional test can be performed on most applications by using a Scan Tool. Enter the Output State check and cycle the accelerator pedal. This will turn all the solenoids on and off. Using a DVOM monitor the voltage at the EGR solenoid(s). They should toggle from a high voltage to a low voltage. Typically this is stated in the manuals and scan tools as above 10.5 volts to below 2 volts. If the voltage does not toggle make sure that you have system voltage on the power side of the connector. If system voltage is present and the voltage does not cycle to the low side check the connector and wiring to the PCM. If the wiring and connector are okay the problem may be in the pin at the PCM or the driver in the computer itself..." by Tomco.
======
EVP Testing & Replacement @
EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement by Seattle FSB
Thanks Miesk! What I confirmed so far:
The HVAC Switching okay with no issues!
AIRB/AIRD solenoid both come in at 68ohms.
I visually inspected vacuum lines and all good!
Verified EVR Solenoids.
Entire EGR valve system has been replaced all the way to pipe in Exhaust Manifold -all Motorcraft (3 Months ago) with no Check Engine lights.

I am not 100% sold on proper vacuum line routing. My Calibration Code is 5-64E-R000 and my manual excludes routing for this Calibration! Nothing on hood but everything lines up okay and by pulling all the lines out and reinstalling I feel more confident it's right.
I don't have Break Out Box so I can't do those test.
I was able to find a Motorcraft AIRB solenoid, I will install it next week because my "gut" is telling me that's the issue even though electrically it's still good. If not, I will continue down your list. Motorcraft AIRD can't be found online at the moment. Thanks again!
 

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Thanks Miesk! What I confirmed so far:
The HVAC Switching okay with no issues!
AIRB/AIRD solenoid both come in at 68ohms.
I visually inspected vacuum lines and all good!
Verified EVR Solenoids.
Entire EGR valve system has been replaced all the way to pipe in Exhaust Manifold -all Motorcraft (3 Months ago) with no Check Engine lights.

I am not 100% sold on proper vacuum line routing. My Calibration Code is 5-64E-R000 and my manual excludes routing for this Calibration! Nothing on hood but everything lines up okay and by pulling all the lines out and reinstalling I feel more confident it's right.
I don't have Break Out Box so I can't do those test.
I was able to find a Motorcraft AIRB solenoid, I will install it next week because my "gut" is telling me that's the issue even though electrically it's still good. If not, I will continue down your list. Motorcraft AIRD can't be found online at the moment. Thanks again!
Yo NY,
YW!
In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead
#37 & #57 are for VPWR -Vehicle Power supply voltage (regulated 10-14 volts)
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yo NY,
YW!
In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead
#37 & #57 are for VPWR -Vehicle Power supply voltage (regulated 10-14 volts)
Thank you good Sir! I will heading to Florida for the Christmas break to see the kids, as much as I hate to leave the BKO in this condition it will have to wait until I get back next week. Merry Christmas to you and your family and Thank You for all you do in this community, It's appreciated!!
 

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Yo NYFSB,
Have a very Happy and a Merry Christmas with your children!
 
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