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:banghead I have a 95 Bronco with a 4" stage two lift (extended radius arms). The problem I'm having is when I shift to 4 wheel drive I get a terrible vibration. The vibration also occurs when the hubs are locked and not in 4 wheel drive. I thought it might be the transfere case, but I was wrong. I just had it overhauled last week and the vibration is stil there. I have new front wheel bearings & new front drive shaft U joints. Due you think it could be the drive shaft angle? Could it be axle shaft u joints, there the original ones 130,000 miles. What are exceptable dive shft angles? Any and all help or suggestions would be great.
 

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i am suffering from the same vibration.....with a 4" lift as well. one thing to check, which i have done, is the spindle bearing. there is no way to get grease to them should the seal go bad.
unfortunatly i still have the vibration. i just took my front driveshaft out and locked my hubs to see if i can narrow it down to the driveshaft. i may trash this driveshaft due to its very rusty. or i might just go have it balanced.

anybody with some more help?
 

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Lick my balls
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to the both of you, I have a vibration coming from my front shaft. I could get it balanced, but because I don't drive over 40 mph when in 4wd I don't worry about it. One day I might balance the shaft. Mind you, it could be the pinion angle, I never did check mine, and if it is the pinion angle, I think because of the steering geometry the options are limited.
 

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You can take the front shaft out, and go for a drive to trouble shoot this problem.
If It runs quiet with the shaft out then you know that it's the cause.
I had the same problem so I had a special front shaft made.





I needed to get the correct yoke for a double cardon joint at the transfer case.
Now when I drive in 2wd with the hubs locked, I still get a some "harshness" above 50mph, but it's way better than it was before.
 

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ok...took the driveshaft out, and drove around with the hubs locked. no vibration. i think i need to put this drivesaft (as well as my rear) in the trash can due to its really rusty nature. as for what to do next, i'm not sure. i am a little confused as to why you have to change the yoke.(?) it wouldnt bolt right up?
 

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Lick my balls
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Why throw away a driveshaft just because it is rusty? Rust wont cause vibration. Just get it balanced and replace your u-joints if needed.
 

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i agree -just cause there is rust does not mean bad unless you see holes thru the shaft. take to a driveline shop and clean or rebuild it your self. sand blast or wire wheel the shaft prime paint and install new joints....mike
 

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with an off the shelf lift, your pinion angle ill be bad. With 130K on those ujoints, they are shot, replace all of them. the bearings may be bad again too, depepnding on quality and how bad those shafts may be. you need to do some experiementing to try and localize the problem like pulling the shaft. IF thats the case, then it could be the pinion bearing, front output bearing on tcase or shaft. Ujoints are cheap, put new ones in.
 

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ssupercoolss said:
ok...took the driveshaft out, and drove around with the hubs locked. no vibration. i think i need to put this drivesaft (as well as my rear) in the trash can due to its really rusty nature. as for what to do next, i'm not sure. i am a little confused as to why you have to change the yoke.(?) it wouldnt bolt right up?
The old driveshaft can be re-used, re-built, re-tubed, balanced or what ever is needed to make it right.
I was lucky that the driveline shop had a nice shaft with the Double Cardan already on it and just needed a set of u-joints, and shortening and balancing it to get it ready.
I needed to change the yoke to have the "Double Cardan" type u-joint at the transfer case end. A different type of yoke is used for the Double Cardan, (as it doesn't fasten with u-bolts like the single u-joint).
You may need to do the same for yours.
good luck:beer
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had time to pull my front drive shaft today. I locked the hubs and went for a drive. No vibration what so ever even at 65mph. I think I'm going to start with balancing first before buy a new double cardon shaft. What do you guys think?
 

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I believe that if your angles are off. You are still gonna eat u-joints.
I'd go with the double cardon first. And balance of course.
Mike
 

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i've not seen one. but, that is not to say they don't make it. i would think you could get your converted over to it. and prolly be a bit cheaper than buying a whole new shaft.
 
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