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89 Bronco XLT 4spd with OD 5.8L 351 4x4. Stock
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Changing the voltage regulator in my truck. It’s on the back of the alternator, but over hours of trying I can’t seem to get the bolts off or have the right tool to do so? Anyone wanna help me out. Thanks in advance!
 

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1987 Bronco 351W, C6
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1,213 Posts
? Why are you trying to pry out the regulator instead of just replacing the whole alternator? Do you have some kind of non-stock setup?
 

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89 Bronco XLT 4spd with OD 5.8L 351 4x4. Stock
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It comes off with a few bolts. From the research I’ve done I don’t need to change my whole alternator, just the voltage regulator. Bought the part already just having trouble getting the old one off.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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2,328 Posts
Are you trying to do it with the alternator mounted? It's possible, but a lot tougher than removing it. (Don't need to disconnect power, just remove the drive belt and unbolt the alternator for easy rear access.) If you want to do it with the alternator mounted, you probably need a little right angle ratcheting driver like this, along with whatever size torx bit (guessing T20 or T25) it is:

 

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89 Bronco XLT 4spd with OD 5.8L 351 4x4. Stock
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Are you trying to do it with the alternator mounted? It's possible, but a lot tougher than removing it. (Don't need to disconnect power, just remove the drive belt and unbolt the alternator for easy rear access.) If you want to do it with the alternator mounted, you probably need a little right angle ratcheting driver like this, along with whatever size torx bit (guessing T20 or T25) it is:


This is EXACTLY what I need. I was going to try it with the alternator on. If that was too difficult then I’d take it off. Thank so much for your advice!
 

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Yo Rpatt2612
Voltage Regulator
Removal

  1. Remove the four screws (T20 Torx® head) attaching the voltage regulator (VR) (10316) to the generator rear housing and bearing (10334). Remove the voltage regulator, with generator brush and terminal holder (10320) attached, from the generator (GEN) (10300).
164429

  1. Hold the voltage regulator in one hand and pry off the cap covering the A screw head with a screwdriver.
164430

  1. Remove two screws (T20 Torx® head) attaching the voltage regulator to the generator brush and terminal holder. Separate the voltage regulator from generator brush and terminal holder.

Installation

  1. Replace generator brush and terminal holder to voltage regulator and install attaching screws.
  1. Replace cap on the head of the A terminal screw.
  1. Press the generator brush into the generator brush and terminal holder. Hold the generator brush in position by inserting a standard size paper clip (or equivalent) through both the location hole in the voltage regulator and through the holes in the generator brush and terminal holders.
  1. Install the voltage regulator and generator brush and terminal holder to the generator (GEN) (10346) with attaching screws.
  1. Remove paper clip (or equivalent) from the voltage regulator.
 

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89 Bronco XLT 4spd with OD 5.8L 351 4x4. Stock
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thank you so much @miesk5 this is going to help me a lot. Hopefully it fixes my problem or I’ll be back for more advice haha.
 

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89 Bronco XLT 4spd with OD 5.8L 351 4x4. Stock
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Successfully replaced it. Didn’t solve my problem. My truck is jumping/lagging when accelerating. There’s also a banging noise that is quite loud. Took it to auto zone for a test and the regulator was bad so decided to start there. I already replaced the fuel pump and filter. Any thoughts?
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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I don't know about the banging noise, but the other part could be the ignition coil (or spark plugs and/or wires). The coil would be the place to start, in my experience. They often test good even when they're problematic, though.
 

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89 Bronco XLT 4spd with OD 5.8L 351 4x4. Stock
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I haven’t personally replaced the spark plugs/wires, but I bought my truck 3 months ago and they all look pretty new. I’m going check em out later. The ignition coil is a good idea, I also thought fuel pressure regulator?

I’ve talked to a few of my mechanic friends and none of us can seem to pin point anything for the banging noise.
 

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Yo R,
Does check engine light (CEL) come on briefly when starting? If stays on whike driving, try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual and; release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO and KOER.

A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS⚠

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.

Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
□•□
 
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