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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ok, I think I was looking at the wrong diagram but, now I have a new problem. I pulled the connector from the 4wabs unit which I'm assuming is the connector with the 10mm bolt holding in place. According to the diagram, there are 9-pins on one side and 18 on the other. My connector has 10 on one side and 12 on the other with three others on each end in a triangular formation. The diagram I am looking at is this one.

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280767_1

Which is different from this one I just looked at.

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/170517_1
I have no idea where this one is located.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I just triple-checked to make sure I followed proper procedure for testing through the red test connector and I was doing it right. I also went ahead and looked at my tone ring and it was intact with no damage whatsoever.
 

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Those are system schematics - not a "connector diagram" or "pinout", which shows the actual pin locations. Go to my Brakes & Hubs album - you'll find 4WABS stuff there, including pinouts.

To post a linked thumb, click the "Thumb" text field beside an image, hit CTRL+C, then put the cursor in the text field here & hit CTRL+V.

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok, I think I just figured it out. The diagram was throwing me on the pinouts because it had three digits and not just two. I jumped the pinouts and drove down the road and the speedo did not work so, I believe that means I need a new vss which I am going to go get now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well, I just replaced the VSS and it didn't help. I may have damaged it on the install. The original would pull the final little bit when you tightened the bolt. This one didn't. It bend it slightly and I wonder if it might have knocked it out of range. Since I couldn't pull codes though, I'm convinced it's the module. How much is one? Steve, you do sell them don't you?
 

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Ok, I think I just figured it out. The diagram was throwing me on the pinouts because it had three digits and not just two. I jumped the pinouts and drove down the road and the speedo did not work so, I believe that means I need a new vss which I am going to go get now.
jumper 14 to 21, & 39 to 22 .......did you do that?

Well, I just replaced the VSS and it didn't help. I may have damaged it on the install. The original would pull the final little bit when you tightened the bolt. This one didn't. It bend it slightly and I wonder if it might have knocked it out of range. Since I couldn't pull codes though, I'm convinced it's the module. How much is one? Steve, you do sell them don't you?
If it was the modular, and you jumped the pins right, then your speedo should of worked. If you jumped it right, and the speedo didn't work then its most likely your PSOM. How did you check your tone ring? Did you pull the cover or did you inspect it from the little hole up top?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I jumped the pinouts as described. However, I just pulled in and out of the driveway. Do you have to reach a certain speed for it to reset? After I replaced the vss, I probably hit about 30 or 40pmh. I inspected the ring through the little hole and all the teeth were in great shape. So, if it's the psom, how much is that?
I also held the reset button in and turned the key to "On" and the needle did a full sweep and the odometer showed "E 08 6".
 

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Ok I checked that and that. One told me what VSS stands for which I knew and one talked about changing the PSOM settings which I dont have. I will ask again.

On an 87 is the VSS for anything other than the RABS?
?
No

On an 90 same question. And what is the VSS on the transfer case for?
Speed control for your cruise.
 

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I prefer to keep all technical discussions here in the open forums, so whatever your question was, post it here. If you're curious, here's why, and sackman's post #27 is a perfect example.

"Pinout" is the diagram; "pin" is the little terminal in the actual connector.

The 3-digit numerals in those diagrams are the circuit (wire) numbers; the pin numbers are the ones INside the outlines of each component (smaller & fainter in the 2nd), where the circuits intersect the component outlines.

Terminology is important (especially for anyone reading this thread in the future), and the sensor you SHOULD be working with is the ABS, which is on the rear diff. The VSS (which your truck doesn't have) would be in the t-case. YES, I know it's labelled "Vehicle Speed Sensor" in that system schematic & "Rear Axle Sensor" in the EVTM diagram, but we know better. ;) Some trucks have BOTH a VSS & an ABS, so it's important to always distinguish them.

Your PSOM appears to be good, so the fault is probably upstream (toward the 4WABS module & ABS sensor). Read the captions in the Brakes album carefully because they describe how to test the ABS. I assume you know how to test a wire for continuity, so do that; there are 4 critical wires: the 2 from the ABS to 4WABS, & the 2 from 4WABS to PSOM. The PSOM's minimum speed is ~2mph; it should always work above that, and there's no "resetting". If it's good & has a good signal coming in, it will indicate a speed. If you want to test it to be absolutely certain, read about how to add miles to it in the PSOM thread. :deal
One told me what VSS stands for which I knew and one talked about changing the PSOM settings which I dont have. I will ask again.

On an 87 is the VSS for anything other than the RABS?

On an 90 same question. And what is the VSS on the transfer case for?
Obviously, you didn't read either very carefully because BOTH say that the VSS is not for RABS, and what year the change occurred.

(See what I mean about terminology? :rolleyes:)

And your question doesn't belong in this thread anyway because your truck doesn't have 4WABS or a PSOM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Sorry I haven't gotten back until now. I had to step away from my Bronco and work on my wife's car. I'll get back to mine next Sunday maybe. I've got to work on Saturday. No rest for the weary! I do appreciate all the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well, I've had nothing but problems around here that have kept me away from the bronco. Working too much doesn't help either! Anyway, here's my situation. I took the numbers off my 4wabs module to my local for dealership and the numbers don't match. The guy said my numbers shouldn't be on anything earlier than a 2000 model vehicle. I was hoping to swap modules with my neighbor to see if mine was bad but, his turned out to be an 89 model so, no go. I'm going on vacation on Thurs and there is a good chance we will be encountering the bad weather that's shutting down the nation so, I would really like to have it fixed before then. I have looked at the images I was directed to and that really hasn't helped since nothing matches what I have with the numbers I need to jump. Here are the two pics I am referring to.


The top pic looks like the connector that is bolted to the 4wabs module. It has three-digit numbers. The bottom pic has the right numbers but, I don't know what it is a picture of and they both say they are the module.

Since I am unable to pull the codes from the abs by jumping the "pins" on the red testor, that leads me to believe the module is bad. In addition to all the crap I've had to deal with around here, the dealership tells me this item is no longer available along with many other items they are discontinuing for the bronco line. So, how would I go about getting one other than a junkyard? How much is a module and how quick would I be able to get one? I really appreciate all the help! Hopefully, I can get this fixed before vacation!

Oh! While I think of it, if I can't get one before then, if I figure out which pins to jump (as in, physically which ones, I know the numbers to jump), will that let my transmission work properly? It's getting a little dangerous when it wants to downshift violently when I'm driving on icy roads!!
 

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Both of those diagrams are correct for your truck. The top one is the connector pinout; the bottom is the wiring schematic. Look at pin #1 in the lower: it's circuit 530 (LG/Y), which also goes to pin #14. That's exactly what the top one shows (the pins are numbered starting at the top L going across), and I bet you'll find it's exactly what's in your truck. And you can find BOTH of those diagrams (and a LOT more) in my Brakes & Hubs album. :shrug
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ok, I just matched the numbers/colors from the bottom pic to the pins in the top pic. I jumped 14-21 and 39-22 at the same time and drove it. Nothing happened. It is possible I damaged the new vss when I installed it. It got slightly, very slightly bent when I tightened the bracket down and I wonder if that would put it far enough out of range to not send a signal. It wasn't a ford part. It was an autozone. It is now too late for me to do any other options right now as we're leaving in the morning for vacation. I guess I'll drive it as is for now.
 

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Why would you put a VSS in a truck that doesn't need one? :shrug Use the right terminology. :twak And fill in your profile so we can see what your truck is without having to go back to the first post. :twak And if you're going to post a diagram & then reference it, post the COMPLETE diagram (not chopped up) so we can follow what you're doing. :twak

If you attempt to drive cross-country with the trans malfunctioning, be prepared to buy a new trans during the trip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Just got back from vacation and just saw your response. Here's what I have so far.

I checked all my fuses and they were fine.

I attempted to get the abs codes but, could get no response from the system throught the abs light on the dash which led me to believe the 4wabs module was bad.

I installed a new rear-differential abs sensor BUT, I may have damaged it during instal as it bent slightly when I was tightening it. The old one would pull itself all the way in during the tightening but, this one didn't. I'm concerned it may not be getting signal properly and thusly throwing off other tests. It was NOT a motorcraft unit.

Once I finally figured out the pins to jump on the abs connector, I had no change. The speedo still didn't work but, if the sensor on the rear is bad, that's what I would expect.

While on my vacation, I magically picked-up 19 miles on my odometer but, my speedo never worked.

When I first bought this Bronco, it puked out a lot of transmission fluid but, I never could locate where it was coming from and after checking the level, I believed it was just overfilled. The transmission has always shifted a little odd. It was like an old C-4 when the bands would tighten on the next gear before the previous had fully released so, there was a shudder sometimes.

On my way back from vacation, I noticed my rear window getting coated. It turned out to be transmission fluid. I still can't locate where it's coming from! Everything is coated underneath the truck.

If I am slowing and taking a turn, it takes the transmission a bit to catch back up and the shift is pretty hard. It works better if I turn off the O/D.

Oh! I stopped by the dealership to see if different engine combinations had different modules since I thought my neighbor's Bronco was the same year as mine and I figured I could swap modules just to see if it fixed it but, his turned out to be an 89. Anyway, when I gave them my numbers off the module, he said the numbers I showed (F47A-2C219-FA) shouldn't have been on anything earlier than a 2000 model!?

So, with all this in mind, my plan is to go ahead and get a motorcraft abs sensor for the rear differential just to make sure I don't have a damaged unit that's throwing things off. Then, I'll test things again to see what I get.
Does anyone have any suggestions for or against what I'm planning. Am I missing something?
My biggest problem is time. I'm up at 4am and often don't get home until
10pm and my weekends lately have been limited to Sunday only so, I don't exactly get much time to work on it.

Anyway, I appreciate all the help so far and hope I'll get something figured out soon!
 

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...(F47A-2C219-FA) shouldn't have been on anything earlier than a 2000 model!?
http://www.wantabe.com/hdrace/dfrdpt.htm
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/part.html
...my plan is to go ahead and get a motorcraft abs sensor for the rear differential just to make sure... Am I missing something?
Yes, you're missing TESTING & DIAGNOSING, and skipping straight to GUE$$ING BLINDLY AT PART$. :shrug The procedure to test the ABS sensor is in the caption of a diagram in my Brakes & Hubs album, along with PLENTY of other useful info. :deal
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I'm really working against the clock here. I have so little time to do anything and I really don't want to take it somewhere to be fixed. We're borrowing the mother-in-law's car for the moment while I try to get it fixed. As you can see from the post, it's 3:30am and I've got a long day ahead of me. My wife will be picking up the new sensor today for me. If I didn't go ahead and get one then, by the time I get home and test it it will be too late to get one if it is bad and I'll lose another day. If it's good, then I'm not out that much money and I'll feel better with a proper part anyway.

I have been through your folders and have been going through the test procedures step by step but, none are giving me the results they should. My previous post explains this especially where the psom and 4wabs are concerned. IF my sensor is bad which there is a good possibility it is then, it's going to throw off my other tests. Anyway, breakfast is ready. Gotta go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
THIS is why I do things the way I do!! When I have a feeling about something, I go with it! I had a feeling I had damaged the sensor on the install and also that I would be better off with a motorcraft part. So, after I installed my new genyoowine ford part, I did the jumper thing with the abs connector and Viola! My speedo is working just fine and I can't even feel it shifting!! Now, since I got in a hurry and did things a little out of order, it IS possible it was only the sensor that was bad but, it was a long day at work and I wasn't thinking straight and just went ahead and disconnected the
4wabs connector and jumped it without testing to see if the module might be working. So, this weekend I'll reconnect it and test that before I go and get a new module but, for now I'm tickled-pink!

Now, on to other matters. As I mentioned before, I'm a member of many forums. Mostly motorcycle related and I am often one of the "Go-To" guys when it comes to troubleshooting problems especially with the factory turbocharged bikes. Every few days, we have a new member asking questions. Most often their questions are covered in the FAQ and we direct them there first. If their question is one that has been covered in a thread but isn't in the FAQ, I or one of our other members will direct them to that thread with a link to the thread or occasionally we will simply answer their questions right there. I left one forum because the members would treat newbies like they were idiots because they asked a question that has been asked before and also acted like their particular bike was the absolute best on the planet and if you owned something different you were a fool!

I understand wanting people to fully understand what they are doing but, simply saying the answer is over there in that pile isn't good enough. Most people have never dealt with schematics and have no idea what they are looking at. I myself have a limited understanding of them but do fairly well at getting what I need out of them. When you know what a member is asking, there is no point in telling them they are wrong and telling them to look again or get into semantics over terminology. The best course of action is to correct them but, then give them the information they need.
Case in point. The back and forth over the "pinouts" that needed to be jumped. Would it have been so difficult to simply say these are the pins you need to jump and have a nice little pic like this:


My very first question was about which connectors were the "E" and "B". I would like to thank Miesk5 for answering that question without a long drawn-out process.
Sackman9975 also answered questions quickly and with usefull info.
However, in most every instance, Steve83 would find a portion of my question that apparently wasn't proper to him and would comment on that while ignoring the rest and giving information that really didn't help. Gradually, I was able to put things together and get the results I needed but, I believe everything could have been taken care of on the first day instead of over a month. Most people don't have a lot of time to take care of these things and aren't lucky enough to have multiple vehicles to use while they are working on their Bronco.
I don't want this to sound like I am ungrateful or upset with anyone because I am not. I want this to help the current members help future members better. I will be starting a new thread with the pic I took of the connector so others can more easily solve their problems.
Again I want to thank everyone who has helped me with my problem and I hope to learn more about my Bronco over time and hopefully, I'm not now banned!
 

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THIS is why I do things the way I do!
...
When you know what a member is asking... The best course of action is...
Wait a second! What about the way I do things? :shrug Are you the only person allowed to do things his own way? :rolleyes: My way is to "teach a man to fish". :popc1:

No, you're not gonna get banned for that post, but there was no reason to start a new thread unless you're gonna do a full Tech Writeup & post it in that forum. Starting a new thread about this SAME topic in this SAME forum just wastes space & bandwidth, and makes searching that much harder for the next person.
 
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