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I seem to have the same problem everone else has with the bronco's TTB, poor handling (wandering). I have a 95 bronco 2.5" lift 33" tires. I have performed all kinds of searches on the subject and cant find the right answers I'm looking for. I just got my truck back from the alingment shop today, everything as far as the alingment is concerned is dead nuts. I have new ball joints ,upper & lower , and newer TRE. My steering has very little play in it and nothing else appears to be warn out. My next step is going to install a steering stabilizer to see if that helps the problem. Would swaping out the power steering pump and or the gear box solve the problem? Any and all suggestions will be greatly apreciated. :confused:
 

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Did you install a drop pitman arm and radius arm drop brackets? They are mandatory for the 2.5" lift yet not included.

Get Ingalls adjustable alignment bushings and have the alignment shop dial in as much positive caster as they can get. It'll get into the +7° range and start handling very nice.

Steering stabilizer won't help sh*t. Get that caster angle up there and you'll be straight.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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Check the radius arm bushings and see whether it has adjustable camber bushings. If not they're worth the investment if you plan on keeping the TTB. Otherwise, and you're going to be doing this anyway if you wheel at all, plan on getting it aligned after every offroad excursion.
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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I have the same problem. It's your caster. When I was doing the research I found out that there is no radius arm drop down brackets for a 2" lift (only 4" and larger). And the pitman arm drop is not necessary for this size lift. You need Axle pivot ddb's preferably adjustable ones. The biggest problem with this lift is that it throws the caster and camber way off. The camber bushings need to be turned to the max just so the tires don't look like this \ /. In doing this you can't get the caster where it needs to be (and the caster is what causes the steering to act like this). with the axle pivot ddb's you can get the camber in spec without the bushings and use the bushings to get the caster where it needs to be. This is why I recommend the adjustable ones. I think I paid about $200 but I haven't installed them yet.
 

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Master Bater
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I have a set of adjustable camber bushings I would be willing to sell for cheap. i also have a pass side drop down bracket for a 4 and 6" lift, but it is bent at the bottom so couldnt be used with a 6". You could by a drivers side drop for prolly 90 bucks at 4wp, and have both my buckings and drop bracket for cheap
 

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hates EVERYTHING!
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Another thing that helped mine ALOT was to make sure your getting the best "foot print" from your tires...air them down till you get all the tread on the pavement. My swampers weren't getting the best "bite" at recomended preasure so it tended to follow every crease in the road....I aired them down a bit and it rode lots better..:thumbup
 

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RLKBOB said:
I have the same problem. It's your caster. When I was doing the research I found out that there is no radius arm drop down brackets for a 2" lift (only 4" and larger). And the pitman arm drop is not necessary for this size lift.
There is drop down brackets for the 2.5 lift, I have them, you can get them from rough country.
And yes you dont need a drop pitman arm for this lift.
 

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Rough Country sells everything you need, piece by piece.

You don't "need" the drop pitman arm, but it sure improves driveability.
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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Are the radius arm ddbs for the 2.5" new? when I got the Adj axle pivot ddbs earlier this year the guy at 4wd diversified said they don't make them for the 2". Hopefully the combination of the axle pivot ddbs and the camber bushings will take care of it. I gotta replace the motor now though so that takes precedence over the ddbs.
 

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Don't know how new the radarm drops are, but they are available and they are a necessity to bring your caster angle into range to keep your Bronco driving straight.

The axle drops will only help your camber angle, which isn't the whole problem.

Get the radarm drops and you'll be set. I'll sell you mine if interested.
 

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negative creep
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get a 4-6" lift because they don't have nearly as many problems. maybe its just me, but i don't have alignment issues at all. yeah i needed adjustable camber bushings, but bfd. i needed them anyway.

AFAIK, the only drop pitman arms made are 4" drop, which seems like it would do more harm than good, because your steering will be traveling in a completely different arc, especially if you have a 2" lift and no drop down brackets. also (this is directed at burnt piston), does any one make 2.5" drop radius arm brackets? using a 4" or greater would give too much caster if its only on a 2.5" lift.

as far as your handling goes: big tires tend to tramline. the bigger they are, the worse it gets. also, the I-beam style suspensions have notoriously bad camber change as they travel through their arc, which doesn't help your handling. a steering stabilizer will probably help keep the tires from having a mind of their own, but its TTB. thats kinda how the whole suspension works anyway.

i think if you told us which 2.5" lift you had(leveler coils that give you "2.5" of lift, the tuff country system, etc...), it would help out in figuring out if its a caster issue or whatever.
 

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I don't know if I'm not making myself clear, but you aren't following me...

I have been through ALL the issues of the 2.5" lift, and have them sorted out.

A recap:
1. Buy the 2.5" lift kit which consists of Coils, Axle Drops, blocks & u-bolts.
Install the kit, get alignment. It will lift your truck 2.5", but it will bump steer and wander and drive you nuts.

2. Add drop pitman arm (2" from Rough Country)
Eliminate your bump steer, smile comes to face.

3.Add Radius Arm Drops (for 2.5" kit)
Re-align and restore your positive caster angle. Truck no longer wanders, drives straight. Lift complete.

Save yourself 1 alignment and a lot of hassle. GET ALL THE PARTS THE FIRST TIME.
Everything is offered for the 2.5" kit same as the 4"-6" kits, it's just sold seperately. If you do it all, the results are the same. People have problems with the 2.5" because the manufacturers (RC & TC) don't tell you the pitman arm and radarm drops are required. Trust me, you want them.

Clear now?
 

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My fixes.

Wandering--Get used to it or buy bigger tires/lift so you can REALLY not care
Sucks Gas--Get used to it
Too loud ---Get used to it

Buying all the extra parts for a 2" lift seems dumb to me but thats my opinion. 4" , 6" I could see, but not for 2"
 

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Buying all the extra parts for a 2" lift seems dumb to me but thats my opinion. 4" , 6" I could see, but not for 2"
Why is buying the correct parts for the 2.5" lift any different than buying the correct parts for the 4" or 6" lift? In your opinion, of course.
 
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Why is buying the correct parts for the 2.5" lift any different than buying the correct parts for the 4" or 6" lift? In your opinion, of course.
Well if your buying new lift parts, why not go big??
 

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negative creep
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its a lot more expensive to buy each piece out right instead of in a kit. and the companies that make the 2.5" lift kit don't seem to be as high of quality IMO as Skyjacker, Rancho, or Pro Comp.
Franklin said:
Wandering--Get used to it or buy bigger tires/lift so you can REALLY not care
that sounds real safe. take a vehicle that isn't safe and then make it less stable...
 
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