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Discussion Starter #1
ok, i have looked so forgive me if this is somewhere in the archives...

i set out to replace my brakes and have run into a snag with the hubs.
1996 eddie bauer
PO had auto hubs replaced with warn standard manual hubs. i disassembled it and found some damaged parts and some parts that don't look like they belong. please help me understand what's going on so i can replace the appropriate parts, if needed.

this is crazy, but it looks to me that i have the outer half of manual hubs and the inner half of auto locking hubs. (see the last picture)

here are the parts in order removed


you can see where someone took a screw driver into this retainer so they could spin it onto the spindle.


this clip is bent


the red boxes are what i have, and why i think they're two halves of two hubs.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
this is the other side. that little metal piece was wedged in the locking nut piece.


and this one is even more beat to hell
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok, looking further... is it possible my 96 came with the 3 screw cap, and the PO didn't buy the nut conversion kit?

how can i tell if it came with the 3 screw cap?
 

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how can i tell if it came with the 3 screw cap?
Year, and the fact that it had autos. I don't remember what year they changed (maybe '94), but all '96 auto locks are 3-screw.

That, and the fact that there are hex wheel bearing adjusting nuts, which only came with 3-screw autos.

The gouges in those nuts might have come from the locking clips working out & getting chewed up. The body of the 3-screw lock is what keeps that clip in-place. Manuals don't, which is why you have to swap to the older nuts.

But the hex nuts & mangled clips are the only auto lock parts in your pics.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72050
 

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My '96 has the three bolt hubs, my '94 has the five bolt hubs, so somewhere around those times the conversion was done by Ford.
 

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If it were me and my truck, I would just start over and buy a new set.
The reasons being.........you don't know what you got or if they are even correct and they looked seriously abused/butchered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
going through everything i can find, and while i was doing this steve83 pretty much confirmed it, i think what happened was:
i had 3 screw auto hubs
PO replaced hub locks with warn manual
skipped the nut conversion part 32720
re-used nut from auto hub

from what i found on FSB, i can use the spindle nut from any factory equipped manual hub at a JY. so i went to the JY and pulled these off two different trucks.
from what i see, i should be good with these + my manual hubs. so that is my plan.

if i'm wrong, please let me know. i'd like to avoid having to buy all-new hubs and nut conversions. but if that's what i NEED, then so be it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well... oddly enough, the one on the right was too thick. i could tell that it was thicker than the other at the junk yard, but they both came off broncos, and they were the only two i could get. maybe the one on the right is for auto hubs? i don't know. neither of them had the actual hub locks attached. it was an older bronco (80-86), so i was hoping for manual hubs.

also, while trying to put it back together, i noticed metal shavings in the outer bearing of one wheel. so i bought one new outer wheel bearing.

considering the trouble i had with the hubs today, the fact i found metal shavings in the one wheel bearing, and the fact i don't have those four rings in the manual hub picture from warn, i bit the bullet and ordered premium warn hubs plus mile marker conversion nut kit. they'll be here tuesday.

warn hubs 20990 $101.96
mile marker kit 95-32720 $29.53

i was going to buy the dorman 05302 spindle nuts, but for two it'd have come out to $32, and $29 is less than $32, so i went with the mile marker. both options are cheaper than the warn kit.

most importantly, i got it back together enough (the one hub lock is not installed) to roll the truck back into the garage until i can finish it later in the week.
 

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well... oddly enough, the one on the right was too thick. i could tell that it was thicker than the other at the junk yard, but they both came off broncos, and they were the only two i could get. maybe the one on the right is for auto hubs?
I don't think so - probly just a slight change in the design, for whatever reason (most likely cost). Back then, hub locks weren't as bulky, so it didn't really matter if the bearing nut was slightly thicker than necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't think so - probly just a slight change in the design, for whatever reason (most likely cost). Back then, hub locks weren't as bulky, so it didn't really matter if the bearing nut was slightly thicker than necessary.
thanks for the info. i'll likely never know but that makes sense.

and, slightly unrelated, i appreciate all the time you've put into your super motors pages. i've used them for reference a number of times in the 5 months i've had my bronco. and i looked at them when researching this situation, too. so thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, here's the final analysis. And i learned a heck of a lesson.

I removed the old hub locks plus the spindle nuts i bought at the jy. I installed my mile marker conversion and new hub lock on the passenger side, went together no problem.

Installed the mm conversion on driver side. That's the side that gave me trouble Sunday. That went on, no problem. Tried to install the new hub lock and it stuck in the same place. With the confidence that these will work, i messed with it until i finally figured it out. The axle had shifted back into the hub just enough to prevent the axle from exposing the retaining clip groove in the center.

So, the jy nuts probably were perfectly fine and I'm exposed as a novice. But that's fine, i admit it. I've learned that and i won't forget.

On the bright side, i'll be able to sell the old hub locks in good conscience since they're fine. So i'll recoup a couple bucks, at least. It's all just a strong reminder not to fight with cars when you're tired. If you leave it and come back, you might solve the problem.

 

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On the bright side, i'll be able to sell the old hub locks...
You might wanna rethink that... :rolleyes: EVERYTHING breaks, eventually. Even something with gold-tone plating. ;) When those Warns stop working, do you want to be WITHOUT hub locks? Or do you want to dig up your good used ones and keep driving?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You might wanna rethink that... :rolleyes: EVERYTHING breaks, eventually. Even something with gold-tone plating. ;) When those Warns stop working, do you want to be WITHOUT hub locks? Or do you want to dig up your good used ones and keep driving?
that's true. but i can't stockpile parts for numerous reasons. sometimes i wish i could, though.
 

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The spare on that style of carrier is already too far back for my taste. :shrug Adding a hub in there just pushes it back farther...





I'd rather carry 2 spare locks in a ziplock bag inside, or in plasticware in one of my bumpers.
 

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The hub doesn't set back any farther, the back of the hub is machined off so it bolts to the front of stock carrier. With 15x10 rims the hub doesn't stick out beyond the tire on the front side. With narrow rims it would cause more chance of denting the tailgate.
Kenny


 

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So it moves the whole tire back the thickness of the hub flange. Not a lot, but more than without the hub.


...and the back of the hub is open, so the lock is getting dirty & wet, and providing a home for spiders or wasps. :shrug I'm sticking with the ziplock. :thumbup
 
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