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Discussion Starter #1
ok soo.. i can get my warn hub into the rotor hub when i follow the procedures on the spindle locknut conversion kit... but when i dont tighten the inner locknut the correct way i can get the lockhub in the full way, BUT if i do it this way then theres too much wiggle in the rotor? in some wiggle allowed? im so confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ok update, got everything on and torqued to specs. got the wheel on, torque to specs while it was on ground. jacked it back up and when i wobble it from 12 and 6 there is alot of play. it has all new bearings and seals. i also replaced the brake caliper, brake pads, and hose. i have not bled the brakes yet. there is only play when i put the wheel on, when the wheel is off and i try to wobble the rotor itself theres absolutely no play, but as soon as the wheel goes on then theres play. theres no play from 9 to 3 except for the fact that there are no tie rods currently.
 

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i'd suspect you can't wiggle w/o the wheel because you get tons more leverage with the wheel.

did you change the rotors? hubs?

sounds like the hub is not pushed back completely on the spindle. or you put the wrong bearings on the back side?
 

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Have you looked at your ball joints lately?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i'd suspect you can't wiggle w/o the wheel because you get tons more leverage with the wheel.

did you change the rotors? hubs?

sounds like the hub is not pushed back completely on the spindle. or you put the wrong bearings on the back side?
rotors and hubs were changed. this was part of a front end rebuild. so all ball joints were changed, upper and lower. the sticker on the door says it was built 5/95 so i got a new hub/rotor assembly that was built 5/95. what i first noticed when i went to put the new inner seal onto the rotor was that the old rotor had a 1 piece seal where as my new one required a 2 piece hub seal. even with it all installed, im having problems with the warn hubs. i followed the instructions -

1. Install the inner bearing nut and torque the nut to 35 ft-lb (Dana 28 and 35) or 50 ft-lb (all others) while rotating
the front disc brake hub back and forth to seat the bearing. NOTE: The inner nut has a pin or post protruding
on one side. The pin is used to index into the lockwasher.
2. Back the inner bearing nut off 90 degrees.
3. Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the groove of the front spindle. Tighten the inner bearing nut,
aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole. Note: The lockwasher hole pattern is offset with the keyway
to provide half-position setting by flipping the washer over to obtain closest hole.
4. Install the outer bearing nut and tighten to 85 to 135 ft-lb (Dana 28 and 35) or 160 to 205 ft-lb (all others) using
the spanner locknut wrench.

What is happening is that when I torque and back off the first locknut, the rotor won't turn and is too far back on the spindle for the warn hub to slide in. If I continue to back off to where the rotor spins and the hub fits then I get a bunch of wobble at 12 and 6. Like I said, theres no wobble when done correctly, yet I can't fit the Warn Hub in far enough for the outer clip to snap in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok ive been going through and looking at steve83's write up about brakes and hubs. i just saw that my spindle is for 91-94 broncos but mine is a 5/95?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so what needs to done now is to press the new rotors off that hub. get the old hub onto the new rotors and use the 1 piece seal.
 

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i'm not sure what you mean by a one piece seal. i've never seen a wheel bearing seal that was 2 pieces. so, i'm not sure how that would work.

the way i removed the abs ring was using a 3 jaw puller from autozone. (i hate autozone, but it's a loaner so i didn't actually buy anything)
http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/jaw-attachment-puller/oem-2-or-3-jaw-gear-puller/516519_0_0/

i put a press race over the bearings for the press to push off of, if that makes sense.
once that was out, i flipped it over and took the BFH and knocked out the wheel studs.
the rotor popped off easily from the hub.

to reinstall the studs, i hammered them in as best i could, but there was still play between the hub and rotor. so i took the hub/rotor assembly and put it on my wheel. then i used the wheel nuts to pull the studs through the rest of the way. i took off hubs off the wheel and then continued to put everything back together.

hope that helps.
 
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