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Discussion Starter #1
I've been driving my truck more as a daily driver recently. It has 149K on it and the engine isn't rebuilt. What's happening now is that when I drive the water temp comes real close to the very end and at the same time the oil pressure gauge also goes completely to the end. It hasn't yet overheated and my commute is about 20 miles and it's Los Angeles traffic.
I noticed that if I was going up the hill on the highway it was worse, it was better if I turned my heater on, it was better when flying down the highway on a straight.
I'm worried it's gonna get me stuck on the road or I'm gonna bust something bad!
1994 bronco xlt 5.8L
pretty much stock
 

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green ones make me horny
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11,154 Posts
check for codes. my temp guage was doing that and the sending unit threw a code. as for oil pressure put a mechanical guage on there.
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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From the sound of it and the fact that the heater makes a difference, I'd say poor circulation. Could be the water pump is going bad or the rediator is clogged. I'd flush the cooling system first and see if that takes care of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I know I should be pulling codes but I have to learn how to do that still.:brownbag
I think maybe so far it's the sending unit or even more likely the
thermostat?? I need to flush it and see if it gets better. I'm just
worried it's gonna leave me somewhere.
I don't know about the waterpump, could it be busted without it
acting up? I don't see any signs of wear.
 

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green ones make me horny
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mashori said:
I know I should be pulling codes but I have to learn how to do that still.:brownbag
I think maybe so far it's the sending unit or even more likely the
thermostat?? I need to flush it and see if it gets better. I'm just
worried it's gonna leave me somewhere.
I don't know about the waterpump, could it be busted without it
acting up? I don't see any signs of wear.

look to see if there is any wetness coming out of the weephole.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the weephole doesn't have water coming out of it but it has a little
bit of rust at it's opening and sometimes I've seen the hole being moist
but never anything dripping out of it. Do I have to take the WP out back and shoot it? :cry
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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flush the system real good, and fill it up. make sure you get your mixture 50/50. and no, if there isn't water coming out of the weephole, then just don't worry about it for right now.

also, check to make sure your fan clutch is good. when the engine is at operating temperature, and you shut 'er down, the fan should not turn more than 1/2 turn after the engine stops. and, when cold (sitting out all night) the fan should turn very slowely as opposed to the speed of the engine.
 

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mashori said:
I know I should be pulling codes but I have to learn how to do that still.QUOTE]

pulling codes from a 94 is very easy and all you need is a test light and a jumper wire steve83 did a really good writeu on it here
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
i wasted 20 buck on a code reader a few years ago for my t-bird and it did the same thing as jumping the wire and putting in a test light but it beeped to which made it a little bit easier
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm on call overnight tomorrow at work but on Sunday when I get back I'll flush the system, give it a good 50/50 fill and I'll see how she runs and I'll repost. I was reading on pulling codes :doh0715: Doesn't seem that hard!:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I flushed the coolant yesterday and still I noticed the oil pressure and the coolant temp going up together. They just both creep up at the same time and come down at the same time. And it's worse when the engine is under more load. I still have to pull codes, I'll post them when I have them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I took a while to do it but I flushed the coolant out and changed it and burped it and all. But the oil pressure and the water temp still go up a lot when driving up hill or driving in hot weather (it's LA!). And the water temp drops a little if I turn on the heater vent inside the car while driving. So then I pulled codes and got 111, 10, 111.
Anything else it could be before I go and change to a mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauge?
 

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bros i agree with gacknar .no relation between coolant temp and oil press.but the gauges are related to each other electrically. regards shovelhead
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, once I get all the stuff together and install the new gauges I'll let you all know what readings I get. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
just an update, so I didn't get a chance to install any aftermarket gauges. But I did manage to blow up my waterpump while driving on the 405. It ripped my belt and also made the fan shred my radiator. Got it all fixed. and after the new waterpump, guess what, the water temp and the oil pressure never went up. Hope I didn't damage a gasket though from all that heat. At least I know now that my gauges really were working!
 

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Code 11, or in your case 111 means all clear, the computer does not know anything is wrong.

are you sure the middle one was 10?
 

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i have an 87 I6, and my oil pressure is real high , like at the L, also the temp guage jumps up to M or A until i hammer on it ???? anyone have any idea's, i thought it was good to have good pressure, i know the guages aren't too accurate, but its not getting better...thamks everyone....:rockon
 

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302 & 3-inline6's said:
until i hammer on it ???? a

I assume you mean hammer on the gauge on the dash insert? If thats the case, sounds like a loose connection behind:scratchhe

Steve will post up in a minute with the real skinny:thumbup
 

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green ones make me horny
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if you take your dsah cluster off. you can see all the connections that go to the guages. make sure none of them are off or loose. if they are solder them back on. as far as oil pressure goes. is it going to take you blowing up your engine not to rely on a ford switch? i would take 10 minutes and 15 bucks to find out what the oil rpessure really is. yes it is that simple.

ken
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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Steve83 said:
That right there tells you it's strictly electrical, and almost certainly inside the cluster, or at its connectors, or on the wiring dedicated to those 2 gauges. Since the oil pressure gauge is a fake (search), the only thing that can make it go high is an electrical fault. Since the temp is following it, I'd work on the assumption that it's directly related, until I found out that they aren't.
Hey Steve, did they still use an instrument voltage regulator in the 94? I have a 95 EVTM but it doesn't seem to show one. The connection line is still there going nowhere on the diagram, it just says gauges with an arrow pointing off chart. Page 60-2.
 
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