Steve83 said:If that's true, you can make billions if you'll go to work for military vehicle contractors. They spend years trying to make HMMWVs and similar trucks capable of SERIOUS off-roading and they're still more than most people can handle without several hours of instruction on how to drive them.
Plus, you're only scratching the surface with vent lines and moving delicate electronics to higher ground:
1) hubs can't be vented thru lines, so they'll ALWAYS suck in water when you ford.
2) exhaust manifolds made of cast iron can't take the thermal shock of fording - neither can catalytic converters or the aluminized coating on the rest of the exhaust system, which will start rusting FAST.
3) the stock fan isn't built to push water, and it's too close to the radiator (on some applications) to dip. It'll bend itself forward trying to push water back, and when you get out of the river, your engine will be air-cooled until it seizes up.
4) adding a snorkel to the intake is great if you get EVERY little port; there are 2 vent holes in the bottom of the EFI filter box and the rest of the plastic parts are fit fairly loosely, so you'll have to seal them, too.
5) the tailpipe has to have a snorkel also because the engine won't run with the kind of backpressure it would get in a couple of feet of water.
6) unless you're going totally commando, you've also got to provide air to the smog pump or it'll fill your exhaust with water no matter how well the intake & tailpipe are sealed/snorkeled.
That's not the WHOLE list, but it's enough to make the point.
First thing to do is def. extend vent lines. David is right about putting a filter in them. Now remember that your hubs will take in water, and the bearings should be repacked after every wheeling trip. It only takes a puddle and a lil mud to seize these up.david95 said:I did a search, there is probably some stuff on this but i didnt find it. I want to water/mud proof my truck as best as i can. I know the first step is extending the vent lines but after that?? Can you seal the distributor cap? -david
Just to make sure I understand this. You have an 82 Bronco with less than half the electrical system as his 95. :shrug :goodfingesmoothcharlene said:Sealing the Dist cap..... I actually ran a bead of silicone around it. Not sure if it's the best idea on a daily driver, but my truck sees mostly trail time.
As I mentioned before, dielectric grease works great on all electrical fittings, battery terminals etc. I unplugged every electrical terminal i could find and loaded it w/ dielectric grease.
Relocate your computer if you will be getting into water anywhere near this deep. Can be a costly adventure.
Thanks, I do have a few underhood pics, I'll have to find them. I found an aircleaner off of an old lincoln that had two "snorkels" to the front grill. I sealed it to the carb w/ a bead of silioln. Then did some plumbing work into the cowl w/ some flexible air intake (can be bought at autozone). I sealed that to the ABS pipe w/ some more silicone. and ran the pipe up the A pilars. I sealed everything w/ silcone again and again.DeepSeaSnake said:charlene,
Do you have any under hood shots of that snorkel setup? Im in an 80 w/302 Im interested in how you piped those. they look really good by the way:toothless
That's what I figuredsmoothcharlene said:Oh and David, I do have the Dist. Cap Vented into the snorkel kit. Was late (actually early) when I typed my original response and I just got off of a long night of work. simply omitted that piece of information