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Discussion Starter #1
Ok totaly screwed here. Water pump pully broke off and threw fan in to radiator. One new radiator later and two water pump bolts broke off. They were the 16 mm ones. The last one is 13 mm or so (sae?). Should I just cut the nut off and leave some stud to try to wrench out with vice grips. I can then at least get the pump off. I feel this last one is twisting. I feel that these bolts go though the timming chain cover somehow and to the block. Is that true? If so that looks like something else to take off. I think I will try the easy out tool I have once I can get the water pump off. I sprayed these first with pb blaster bolt loosener. I also used a torch to heat them up and they still broke. Truck is 92 with 200 k on the clock 5.8liter. Thanks in advance I need help fast. :popc1:
 

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Yeeeeehaw Y'all!
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Well I had a very similar incident with stick water pump bolts. Fortunately I was tearing the engine down for a rebuild when I wring off two bolts.

The bolts you wrung off are in all likeleness two that go through the water jacket. You can try the Vise-Grips but be prepared to remove the timing cover to get at them.

Yes, several of the water pump bolts go through the timing cover into the block. The bolts go into the water jackets on the driver side of the block. If the bolt studs with the nuts are factory, they're one piece.

Corrossion is the problem. Not one of Fords better ideas by mixing dissimilar metals and water. :whiteflag
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok

nice bronco you have it looks like mine all black. :popc1: yep they are the stud bolt combination which will require a trip to the dreaded dealer.
 

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if the bolts that broke off have any thread showin what i usually do is get my welder or someone with a welder to weld a nut to the broken stud and then use a ratchet and back it out...

as for the broken bolts sounds like u have a binding issue "unless its just old" or sometimes the acessories arent lining up right so it pulls on the set-up until it lets loose...

i used to have to deal with this problem all the time with e350 turbo diesels in septa jitney buses.. we had to either make our own bolts or we had to special order grade 8 bolts or 10.9's and washer them up so the acessories would line up properly.. this is with a bus that ran twin altornators or a single 200 amp alt which burnt up all the time from ideling and they wouldnt charge the busses correctly..
 

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WaVeCrAzEd said:
Ok totaly screwed here. Water pump pully broke off and threw fan in to radiator. One new radiator later and two water pump bolts broke off. They were the 16 mm ones. The last one is 13 mm or so (sae?). Should I just cut the nut off and leave some stud to try to wrench out with vice grips. I can then at least get the pump off. I feel this last one is twisting. I feel that these bolts go though the timming chain cover somehow and to the block. Is that true? If so that looks like something else to take off. I think I will try the easy out tool I have once I can get the water pump off. I sprayed these first with pb blaster bolt loosener. I also used a torch to heat them up and they still broke. Truck is 92 with 200 k on the clock 5.8liter. Thanks in advance I need help fast. :popc1:

as for the easy out make sure once u start drilling u take it easy cause it isnt fun trying to get an easyout of a snapped bolt in a block the only way ive done it is drill it out and tap the block for the next size bolt where permitted
butch
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks

ok did a google seach on stuck bolts and most sites said to weld a nut on the stud and or torch it and or vicegrip it and wiggle. Thanks. i'm getting more confidence to fix this.
 

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WaVeCrAzEd said:
ok did a google seach on stuck bolts and most sites said to weld a nut on the stud and or torch it and or vicegrip it and wiggle. Thanks. i'm getting more confidence to fix this.
one thing about automotive stuff dont be afraid to do it,, just do it,,but respect it.. anything can be fixed with some persistance and sweat..

ud be amazed at how good it feels when u jump in and get the job done with ur own two hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
WELDING

I HAVE an acetlyene torck but oxygen tank is empty. Can I use strait acetylene without oxygen and stick weld it?
 

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search this has been discussed alot.

also the studs are not a dealer part, they can be found at napa or carquest
 

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WaVeCrAzEd said:
I HAVE an acetlyene torck but oxygen tank is empty. Can I use strait acetylene without oxygen and stick weld it?
No I think you need at least a 1/4 turn of Oxy to get a decent flame.

Did you remove the front cover???? if so spray the PB on the threads so it will penetrate there, not the head where it will penetrate just the shaft. Then use the torch to heat it up and use vice grips, then weld the nutif necessary, it should be out by then or your in trouble:duh
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes timming cover off

ok the timming cover broke upon removal as it was stuck on one of te bolt studs. So found another at recycler for 50 dollars. Guess I will try to find the studs at carquest or napa. There is still 3 studs in there and one I heated up real good yesterday but the vice grips slip off. The one has 3 inches of stud to grab on too. The others are only 1 inch. Need to get a welder over here I guess. They are soaking in pb blaster overnight now. Anyone got a cam cover cheap in the Orlando Fl area?
 

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same issue with my 93 bronco 5.8

i noticed this is from 2006. but im hoping you guys can still help me. is welding a nut onto it working? i tried the vise with all the wd-40's and lube stuff. and nothing. where the nut is on the stud, i tried to take it off to replace the water pump and they both snapped off. i got the water pump off, but i cant get the studs out to replace them. i need help asap! thanks guys!
 

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you need penetrating fluid, not wd-40

and welding a nut on should work fine, just make sure not to melt the nut when you weld it on
 

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ok. thanks ill give that a try. and my buddy has a welding machine. is it hard to use? or should i just have him do it? or would JB weld be ok for now? lol just wondering and concidering all options
 

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unless you know how to weld, let him do it. and no, jb weld isn't going to work. you need the real heat of a welder, as the heat will also help to break the bolt(s) loose.
 

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Just a couple days ago took my timing cover and water pump off and
all the bolts came out real nice.

I checked and all of 'em are blind-holes on my '91 351w.

Why in the heck are you guys having so much trouble with blind holes? :/

Alvin in AZ
 
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