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1979 Custom, 6.6L Auto
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, first post here, looking to clean up my mostly original 79' that probably hasn't ever been polished lol, Taking it in for a detail job tomorrow, would you suggest wax or go for the ceramic coating? Was parked under cover most of it's life except where the elements reached to hood. Thanks in advance!
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1979 Custom, 6.6L Auto
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks blends in with the wheat pretty good! Thinking about putting it up for sale.., trying to clean it up without ruining the originality.. One grandma owner with 117k and appears as if it's never been detailed out, just kept clean and parked.. so I took it by the local detail shop and they suggested the ceramic coating and looks like nice stuff but would the high gloss ruin the feel of this old stocker?? Bought it to build into a wheeler and been tempted to do several mods but it's just to stock and couldn't bring myself to do it.. So.. thinking of selling it so I can build different one without runing a survivor..
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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So I’ve never in my life paid for a professional detailing, but I tried some ceramic spray wax on the wife’s car a few months ago, I couldn’t tell the difference over regular turtle wax, and the dusty desert had it nasty looking again in a few weeks anyway....
So if it were mine, I would just give it a good hand wash and any old wax you like
 
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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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78 & 92
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Be aware that the finsh on yours, will likely be different then Modern vehicles which those cermica coatings are usually made for. I would start with a good wax and sealer, after doing a 3 stage buff job. I prefer JaxWax products myself, but that is somewhat of a what oil brand in better debate too.
So before cermic coating the paint/finish has to be near perfect, as your going to be stuck with what ever you coat. I would for sure do a test spot on somewhere not seen, or easy to fix before attempting the whole thing, this is also why I recommend the good wax and a seal coat first. I Usually get 6 months out of a seal coat on my stuff, with only ever needing a quick detail with a spray wax every so often in between. You can cermic coat yourself its not very hard, just time consuming, and like mentioned the prep work is gonna make or break it, just like if you were gonna re-paint.
 

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1979 Custom, 6.6L Auto
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the good info and suggestions!, Leaning towards not using ceramic for now. Put on the stock type wheels last night and taking it in for a pro detail, would do it myself but harvest time around here and short on spare time, we'll see how it turns out!
 

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1992 XLT 302 5 spd trans, long tube headers, manual t case, manual hubs
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I was always told you don't quite get the rich deep tones of the paint in a ceramic compared to a good carnuba. Beautiful truck! I'm glad you decided to keep it untouched its awesome
 

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Love the brown and cream. That is a sharp looking Bronco.

As for wax? Does the “Rainbow Wax” at the $10 drive through car wash count?

In all seriousness though, I have used Zaino products for several years as well and always been pleased.
 
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I applied a true ceramic coating (not the spray on stuff) to my Mach 1. The key is in the prep as any previous coating, wax, or chemical needs to be removed completely first. The brand i used came with the stripper. Applying the coating is a slow process done in 2 coats but when its done its incredible and makes the Acapulco Blue glow. Even after close to 2 years baked on bugs pretty much wipe right off.
For me a quality ceramic coating is far superior to wax. The only real drawback is that after applying it you need to use a cleaner thats made for ceramic coatings.
I personally won't do this to the Bronco since it will never get clean enough to begin the process.
165209
 

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1992 XLT 302 5 spd trans, long tube headers, manual t case, manual hubs
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What a beauty! 5.8 cj?

Anyway what brand did you use?

5
I applied a true ceramic coating (not the spray on stuff) to my Mach 1. The key is in the prep as any previous coating, wax, or chemical needs to be removed completely first. The brand i used came with the stripper. Applying the coating is a slow process done in 2 coats but when its done its incredible and makes the Acapulco Blue glow. Even after close to 2 years baked on bugs pretty much wipe right off.
For me a quality ceramic coating is far superior to wax. The only real drawback is that after applying it you need to use a cleaner thats made for ceramic coatings.
I personally won't do this to the Bronco since it will never get clean enough to begin the process. View attachment 165209
 

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1979 Custom, 6.6L Auto
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Discussion Starter #13
Didn't work out as planned with the detailers. Other than a couple test spots that turned out pretty nice, decided to skip cleaning it up for now.. Just like in this thread, everyone has thier own way of doing things and the next owner can do it up as they wish. So it's either I go all out and make it pretty for auction or leave it as is and sell the dirt and all lol. Would be an fairly easy build for whomever wanted to experience that. What do you guys think for auction-wise, all polished up or in the rough?
TIA
165278
 

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Find someone to wash it, clay bar it, cut and buff, a coat of wax and sell it. Detailing is why dealerships / people can buy a $5000 vehicle and turn around and sell it for $7500. Most people buy what they SEE - not what's underneath.
 

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If I could give 10 thumbs-up, I would. A $100-$200 dollar detail can get you 10 times that..
 
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1992 XLT 302 5 spd trans, long tube headers, manual t case, manual hubs
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I'm with all these folks, people eat with their eyes. That being said if it were one of us we'd obviously see it for what is there dirt and all. But you should assume they dont know Jack shit about what's really there vs what they can see.

I love your truck haha
 

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I’d spend a day with a clay bar, good ole fashioned elbow grease and decent wax/polish. I’ve used Zaino for over 20 years now and still love it.
We're going to try the Zaino next. The Cquartz been doing good but looking for something better. I'll just finish installing parts from 4wheelonline onto the Jeep this week will take the weekend detailing the bronco.
 

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The two paint types (the 70's Bronco and just about any modern paint or recent paint job) are massively different, which require different strategies when detailing the paint. If the Bronco is original paint - I highly doubt it's basecoat / clearcoat. So all the modern waxes / ceramics - even Zaino - won't do anything but MAGNIFY the condition of the existing paint. Just ask the guy from Zaino - he'll tell you that if you paint is in crappy shape, Zaino will magnify it.

That being said - I'm pretty sure a 1st Gen FSB is single stage. Easy way to tell - take a small bit of polishing / rubbing compound, wipe it on an inconspicuous area. If you get COLOR on the rag from the paint, you do not have clear coat.

You might have to hunt around to find a detail shop that knows how to cut and buff single stage. Reason being - with base coat / clear coat - you're "polishing" or compounding the clear coat on top of the color coat. With an OEM single stage paint job - there is no clear coat. So when you cut and buff you are actually removing color from the surface to make the finish shine. So you have to be a lot more careful with a buffer, speed choice, pad choice, material choice etc.

That's the difference in a quality detail job. If it were me - and I wanted to get it looking as good as possible for resale, I'd wash it with dawn dish soap (strips all waxes and coatings off) Then I'd hit it with a clay bar (use detail spray as a lube for the clay bar) this will get surface contaminants off the finish. After the first wash, take a plastic bag and put it over your hand. If you rub it across the paint and can feel "bumps" and other things on the surface - use the clay bar. Wash it again, hit it with a polish then a good wax. If you're paying for someone's time doing this - that's where the extra expense is - experience and time involved.

HTH
 

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Didn't work out as planned with the detailers. Other than a couple test spots that turned out pretty nice, decided to skip cleaning it up for now.. Just like in this thread, everyone has thier own way of doing things and the next owner can do it up as they wish. So it's either I go all out and make it pretty for auction or leave it as is and sell the dirt and all lol. Would be an fairly easy build for whomever wanted to experience that. What do you guys think for auction-wise, all polished up or in the rough?
TIA View attachment 165278
So I know that selling stuff here ion this forum is a no, no.... But where woud I look to find the "For Sale" info for this old girl????
 
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