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'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As many of you already know my Son and I are new Bronco owners. We are excited to learn and do as much as we can ourselves with our new Bronco. I wanted to take it to a mechanic that is good family friend of ours to have it initially looked over. Our newly acquired Bronco had been parked in a warehouse for at least a year so I felt this was important as I did not want to jump right in without first having it looked over and after sitting it was idling a bit rough. He did not have a lot of time to spend, but squeezed us in to give a little attention. In regard to the idle he replaced a sensor up by air intake. I do not remember what this one was. Please see the picture and let me know. He also adjusted the gap on the plugs and checked all the wires. He did mention that he thought the distributor was possibly not the right one for this engine. Thoughts? He also replaced the alternator and a new oil sending unit solved our issue of no reading on the oil pressure guage.

My Son got his first oil change under his belt yesterday and we have a few more items on our list as we learn. We are planning to flush the radiator next. Any recommendations on coolant mixture for South Florida climate?

We have also noticed a power steering leak. Not sure yet where it is coming from.

I also believe the rear main is leaking. I read a few threads that talked about this repair and working it in with a E4OD filter and fluid change.

I will post pictures in separate comment.
 

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'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #2



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'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I forgot to mention that once it warmed up, that hesitation and occasional stalls did not seem to be an issue but now after the items mentioned above it sounds fantastic and is running nice.
 

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That's the IAC. It lets the computer control the idle speed. I'm weary about throwing parts at things. The parts you get at most parts stores these days are often worse quality than what they're replacing. I'll often repair original parts when possible for this reason.
 

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'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That's the IAC. It lets the computer control the idle speed. I'm weary about throwing parts at things. The parts you get at most parts stores these days are often worse quality than what they're replacing. I'll often repair original parts when possible for this reason.
Good point. I didn't think of that, but will moving forward and like the idea of only replacing something once we are sure something is actually bad for that exact reason. It's only a $40 part, but not good if it's quality is lesser. I forgot to mention he also told me he cleaned the entire throttle body while he was at it.
 

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Rear main seal is one hell of a job. To get to the upper half oil pan has to be dropped. Major job just to keep oil spots off of your driveway
 

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'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Rear main seal is one hell of a job. To get to the upper half oil pan has to be dropped. Major job just to keep oil spots off of your driveway
I hear yah. This is how much oil and power steering fluid we lost in about 16 hours.



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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,404 Posts
That looks like all oil - maybe from two spots? The power steering fluid should actually be ATF, which is red in color, so unless you see red wetness around the PS pump, hoses, steering gear, pitman arm, along the frame rail there, or red fluid on the ground, you probably don’t have a leak there. Also, if you have oil dripping off of the tranny bell housing (just below the rear main seal), that leak could actually be coming from elsewhere higher up on the engine. It could be the back of the intake manifold, the valve covers, etc. It has a tendency to drip down and aft, so a thorough inspection of potential leaky gaskets should be done before you commit to a RMS replacement. As was mentioned, it is a pretty intense task - a lot of people actually just pull the engine out and reseal the whole engine when they have a RMS leak.

For parts, try to get Motorcraft parts when possible, especially for electronic components.
 

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'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
We added some clear power steering fluid that I had on hand. It was already low again today. The clear is hard to see in the picture.

Not sure where that other oil area is coming from but I will look to see if there are some other areas higher up like you mention.


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'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
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Discussion Starter #11
Great idea. Thanks for the reminder. I was thinking about recently when I saw a post mention the Haynes manual.


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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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Buy the manuls on CD from Rock Auto. Create a priority list. Consult the big brains Rock Auto U for your Master's before each task....
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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318 Posts
If your power steering leak is from the pump, I'd suggest a saginaw conversion. It's worth the effort, my power steering no longer lags when I whip the steering wheel back and forth while parking. Also, "high mileage" style oils often have additives to help swell seals and slow leaks, may be worth a shot so you can put down some miles and prioritize the maintenance list.
 

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Step #1 is to be 100% sure where the leaks are coming from
Clean everything off real good. Topside with a can of gunk and a hose
Send the kid under to wipe everything real good too.
Run it and try to avoid a run down the hiway at 80mph or you will have oil EVERYWHERE
 

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Like para said, Step#1 verify where oil leaks are coming from. Give the engine a good soaking with Foam Gunk or similar, let it sit, scrub nasty areas with brush, then hose off. Verify engine is clean. Let it dry overnight, run the engine next day about 5-10 min. Get under with light for close inspection.
On my 94 Bronco, I kept thinking for the longest time I had a rear main seal leak. Turns out it was the oil pan gasket leaking at the back. Oil pasket can be changed with out pulling engine, water pump and timing chain housing gotta come off (94 351). There are several post on here on how to if that's what it is.

For the power steering, same thing, clean it up with Gunk Foam, let dry overnight, inspect with light. Probably the gear unit leaking not the pump. Replace with re-manufactured unless you got the cash for high end gear unit. With the pump, when you have time, try the Saginaw pump conversion. Pick N Pull steering parts usually are old and leakers.
 

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1994 Bronco 5.0
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If your power steering leak is from the pump, I'd suggest a saginaw conversion. It's worth the effort, my power steering no longer lags when I whip the steering wheel back and forth while parking. Also, "high mileage" style oils often have additives to help swell seals and slow leaks, may be worth a shot so you can put down some miles and prioritize the maintenance list.
sorry to butt in here. Where can I find the procedure of competing the Saginaw conversion? I appreciate any help.
 

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Premium Member
1989 Eddie Bauer 5.8, C6, True Trac diffs, 4.56 gears, 4" C&T lift, 130A 3G Alt, 35" Grabber AT2s
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557 Posts
sorry to butt in here. Where can I find the procedure of competing the Saginaw conversion? I appreciate any help.
A saginaw swap requires a bracket, hoses, and pump from usually a full size van with the same engine size as your Bronco. I bought mine at a pick and pull, complete, for about 60 dollars. Spent the cash while I had it out and bought a rebuilt pump. Remove existing bracket, pump and hoses from your truck, install SAGINAW. No more whining noise like you usually hear from the political left.
 

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1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
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289 Posts
@JoelS Just saw this thread. As mentioned, until it's thoroughly clean, tracking a leak is a mission. +1 on Motorcraft if not NAPA. I've had good luck controlling rear main seal leaks on other cars using Lucas Oil additives. There's one for oil leaks.

Oh, your hired wrench should've detected the source and told you.
A good mechanic would've checked underneath the customer's car.
Appears he didn't, since you two changed the oil. All the other work was done from above....easy work.
 

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1996 Ford Bronco XL
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32 Posts
That's the IAC. It lets the computer control the idle speed. I'm weary about throwing parts at things. The parts you get at most parts stores these days are often worse quality than what they're replacing. I'll often repair original parts when possible for this reason.
Yes! Couldn’t agree more. I’d say most every issue on our Bronco could be traced back to a cheap generic part that was thrown on and that never needed replacing in the first place. I’ll search junk yards or ebay before i go into an auto parts store these days. It’s actually really lame to not trust a new part. But they all seem to be garbage.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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318 Posts
Yes! Couldn’t agree more. I’d say most every issue on our Bronco could be traced back to a cheap generic part that was thrown on and that never needed replacing in the first place. I’ll search junk yards or ebay before i go into an auto parts store these days. It’s actually really lame to not trust a new part. But they all seem to be garbage.
This is half the reason I aquired my F-350. My dad was tired of buying new chinesium that failed within 1000 miles, so he sold it to me and got a newer truck. It's got a bunch of rebuilt OEM parts now, and seems more reliable. The alternator and starter were rebuilt locally and have had no issues with them or any parts rebuilt by that shop.
 
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