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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So im heading out to work, get in my truck, turn the key and starter wont spin, first thing i check is the mabbtery, a/c blows fine, lights turn on, dash light up and when i go to start the light dim down but no starter.
i moved some cables and some things on the started and nothing, then i moved the ignition key for a bit and finally it turned on, could it be the ignition switch ?

second is when im on idle on a light its not smooth, it iddles fine at 500-700 rpm but its kinda rough ish, vibrates the inside, could be a bad injector? ignition coil? im not sure

also i have a loud CLUNK noise everytime i brake, im pretty sure its the drums in the back, i ordered some wheel cylinders,going to get the drumms surfaced and new shoes, and i think that might fix it
 

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1987 Ford Bronco, beefed up 351w, JBG HD rear springs, JBG 4” coil, 10.25 rear posi, Dana 44 posi
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For the no crank issue does it act like it normally would when you start it. Like things get power cut to them when you crank like the radio. If so then try putting it in neutral, or hold the shifter lever up in park. If it does start in neutral then I would assume it's the neutral safety switch.

For your rough running does it only do it at idle, or does it do it right off idle or while driving as well. It does kinda sound like spark but honestly, it could be a lot. Could be a failing rotor and cap, which is an easy and cheap fix. Also easy to visually diagnose. You just take the rotor off which I think is just two clips on stock distributors, if the points in the cap don't look clean could be a problem.
 

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So im heading out to work, get in my truck, turn the key and starter wont spin, first thing i check is the mabbtery, a/c blows fine, lights turn on, dash light up and when i go to start the light dim down but no starter.
i moved some cables and some things on the started and nothing, then i moved the ignition key for a bit and finally it turned on, could it be the ignition switch ?

second is when im on idle on a light its not smooth, it iddles fine at 500-700 rpm but its kinda rough ish, vibrates the inside, could be a bad injector? ignition coil? im not sure

also i have a loud CLUNK noise everytime i brake, im pretty sure its the drums in the back, i ordered some wheel cylinders,going to get the drumms surfaced and new shoes, and i think that might fix it
For the starting problems. Possibly the solinoid has gone bad and wont let current get to the starter. Possibly the cable is loose ON The Starter? Most likely one of them tow issues. The solinoid also has to have a good ground. If it has gotten dirt or rusted between the solenoid and fender well the solenoid also won't perform properly
So im heading out to work, get in my truck, turn the key and starter wont spin, first thing i check is the mabbtery, a/c blows fine, lights turn on, dash light up and when i go to start the light dim down but no starter.
i moved some cables and some things on the started and nothing, then i moved the ignition key for a bit and finally it turned on, could it be the ignition switch ?

second is when im on idle on a light its not smooth, it iddles fine at 500-700 rpm but its kinda rough ish, vibrates the inside, could be a bad injector? ignition coil? im not sure

also i have a loud CLUNK noise everytime i brake, im pretty sure its the drums in the back, i ordered some wheel cylinders,going to get the drumms surfaced and new shoes, and i think that might fix it
For the no crank issue does it act like it normally would when you start it. Like things get power cut to them when you crank like the radio. If so then try putting it in neutral, or hold the shifter lever up in park. If it does start in neutral then I would assume it's the neutral safety switch.

For your rough running does it only do it at idle, or does it do it right off idle or while driving as well. It does kinda sound like spark but honestly, it could be a lot. Could be a failing rotor and cap, which is an easy and cheap fix. Also easy to visually diagnose. You just take the rotor off which I think is just two clips on stock distributors, if the points in the cap don't look clean could be a problem.
Also could be the starter solenoid. If it went bad it wont let current get to starter. Possibly cable got loose on the starter some how. Maybe rust or dirt between solenoid and fender well. These are also symptoms of starter not spinning the engime
 

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I would check the grounds on your truck and make sure they are clean. After 25+ years the cables are bound to be corroded to some degree. A bad ground can manifest itself in many ways, one of which is the starting issues. Make sure your battery terminals are good, the engine block ground and then the chassis ground. There are also other ground locations that need to be inspected but the three I listed are the main ones for starting issues.

Make sure your cables ends are good too. Never use the clamp type cable ends, always use the molded ends. Sometimes the molded battery ends get corroded inside the molded connector and cause a bad connection. You may need to replace the cable.
 

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1987 Ford Bronco, beefed up 351w, JBG HD rear springs, JBG 4” coil, 10.25 rear posi, Dana 44 posi
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If it is a starter solenoid I would strongly recommend getting a Motorcraft one. I kept using aftermarket ones and had problems with them sticking, put the OEM one on and had no problems. Well worth the cost.
 

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on the clunk, check your front brakes, make sure the calipers are tight. I've had similar when the bolts backed out a bit.

the rough idle could be a miss, can be difficult to isolate. if you have true duels, place your hand just over the exhaust tips individually, see if you can feel the miss in the exhaust pressure. at least gets you to the right bank. since it isn't a dead miss, it can be hard to find by looking at the plugs. I am dealing with trying to find an occasional miss on the passenger side of my 86 351W.

for the start, could be switch, could be neutral safety switch, could be solenoid. start by jumping the battery to the relay post on the solenoid. if it starts, it isn't the solenoid. then you can jump the neutral safety switch, and rule that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For the no crank issue does it act like it normally would when you start it. Like things get power cut to them when you crank like the radio. If so then try putting it in neutral, or hold the shifter lever up in park. If it does start in neutral then I would assume it's the neutral safety switch.

For your rough running does it only do it at idle, or does it do it right off idle or while driving as well. It does kinda sound like spark but honestly, it could be a lot. Could be a failing rotor and cap, which is an easy and cheap fix. Also easy to visually diagnose. You just take the rotor off which I think is just two clips on stock distributors, if the points in the cap don't look clean could be a problem.
thats odd, and yes i turned it on neutral and turned over after wiggling the wheel and shifter, after that it would turn over just fine in park, its the first time it happened, and had no signs of any problems

only on idle cause up to speed its smooth and normal, also i just replaced the sparkplugs a couple months ago and haven even gone 3k miles also put new rotor,cap and wires, but i didnt replace the ignition coil
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For the starting problems. Possibly the solinoid has gone bad and wont let current get to the starter. Possibly the cable is loose ON The Starter? Most likely one of them tow issues. The solinoid also has to have a good ground. If it has gotten dirt or rusted between the solenoid and fender well the solenoid also won't perform properly
Also could be the starter solenoid. If it went bad it wont let current get to starter. Possibly cable got loose on the starter some how. Maybe rust or dirt between solenoid and fender well. These are also symptoms of starter not spinning the engime
i got under the truck and check the cables and they where all firm and nothing loose, could be the solenoid like you said, but if it does it again ill replace the started
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would check the grounds on your truck and make sure they are clean. After 25+ years the cables are bound to be corroded to some degree. A bad ground can manifest itself in many ways, one of which is the starting issues. Make sure your battery terminals are good, the engine block ground and then the chassis ground. There are also other ground locations that need to be inspected but the three I listed are the main ones for starting issues.

Make sure your cables ends are good too. Never use the clamp type cable ends, always use the molded ends. Sometimes the molded battery ends get corroded inside the molded connector and cause a bad connection. You may need to replace the cable.
this might be the problem? when i get a free day ill check all my grounds cause im not sure what the condition is or how it was done with the previous owner
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If it is a starter solenoid I would strongly recommend getting a Motorcraft one. I kept using aftermarket ones and had problems with them sticking, put the OEM one on and had no problems. Well worth the cost.
ill check!!! i had one problem where i forgot the connect it and gave the same problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
on the clunk, check your front brakes, make sure the calipers are tight. I've had similar when the bolts backed out a bit.

the rough idle could be a miss, can be difficult to isolate. if you have true duels, place your hand just over the exhaust tips individually, see if you can feel the miss in the exhaust pressure. at least gets you to the right bank. since it isn't a dead miss, it can be hard to find by looking at the plugs. I am dealing with trying to find an occasional miss on the passenger side of my 86 351W.

for the start, could be switch, could be neutral safety switch, could be solenoid. start by jumping the battery to the relay post on the solenoid. if it starts, it isn't the solenoid. then you can jump the neutral safety switch, and rule that out.
ill check the front brakes out .......and ill look look into the plugs maybe the gap got F up ? also what would i be looking for when putting my hand over the exhaust?
 

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ill check the front brakes out .......and ill look look into the plugs maybe the gap got F up ? also what would i be looking for when putting my hand over the exhaust?
if everythign is running right, there should be a fairly consistent pulse to the exhaust (won't be perfect, as the firing order if you look at 4 cylinder pulses per side, 8 pulses total, 2 will be next t to each other, there will be a 2 pulse gap with no pressure then 1 on 1 off 1 on 1 off) kind ahard to describe now that I think about it.

but if you have a miss, at idle there will be a very long gap where it will try to suck your hand into the exhaust. that is your miss. if you have something like glasspacks or some other reverb exhaust, you can normally hear a miss as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
on the clunk, check your front brakes, make sure the calipers are tight. I've had similar when the bolts backed out a bit.

the rough idle could be a miss, can be difficult to isolate. if you have true duels, place your hand just over the exhaust tips individually, see if you can feel the miss in the exhaust pressure. at least gets you to the right bank. since it isn't a dead miss, it can be hard to find by looking at the plugs. I am dealing with trying to find an occasional miss on the passenger side of my 86 351W.

for the start, could be switch, could be neutral safety switch, could be solenoid. start by jumping the battery to the relay post on the solenoid. if it starts, it isn't the solenoid. then you can jump the neutral safety switch, and rule that out.
i checked the calipers and i forgot, these use pins and not screws, i checked both sides and nothing was lose, only thing was on the right front it had the smallest wiggle but it was when i did i lot of force, but it wasnt like a big gap that would be doing a GLUNK
 

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Yo Fox,
Following by Ford with additions by the usual suspects;

View attachment 153326

Item Part Number Description
1 3F532 Key Release Lever Spring
2 11572 Ignition Switch
3 7210 Gearshift Lever
4 7A247 Park/Neutral Position Switch or
5 11A152 Clutch Pedal Position Switch
6 11450 Starter Motor Relay
7 11001 Starter Motor
8 11390 Starter Solenoid
9 10655 Battery
B1 check the battery voltage, terminals and cables to ground & alternator for loose or corroded connections.

Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. (Remember, when measuring battery voltage, everything in the car should be off, or the battery should be disconnected. Voltage measurements are always "no load" measurements unless the battery is being tested for it's performance under load)..." by Gordon

Ground Location, Frame from Battery pic in a 94 5.8;

"...Frame ground just inboard of the R spring tower. The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body..."
Source: by CodysBigBlueBronco (how much $???)

Frame Ground location (Passenger side Cross member above
engine mount)

by jowens1126

Intake Manifold to Block Strap on oassenger side Location pic in a 96 5. by bossind



Inspect STARTER RELAY GROUND; relay located on PASSENGER FENDER LINER, near battery, see Starter Relay pic in a 95

Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk)
》Check for continuity between relay mounting bracket and clean chassis ground. Rust, grime, paint etc interferes with relay control circuit.
B3 STARTER RELAY FUNCTION
CAUTION: Make sure transmission is in neutral and parking brake is applied.
Connect remote starter switch between battery terminal at starter relay and starter relay S terminal.
Press remote starter switch button or jump it.
Does starter crank engine?
Yes If equipped with an automatic transmission, GO to B4. If equipped with a manual transmission, GO to B7. If relay does not click, GO to B9.
If relay clicks, GO to B10.

B4 With key in START position, check for battery voltage at starter relay S terminal (R/BL). It is the smallest terminal on the relay and the R/BL wire has a push on/pull off connector.

Is battery voltage present?
Yes GO to B9.
NO GO to B5.

B5 BATTERY FEED FROM TRANSMISSION RANGE (TR) SENSOR
With key in START position, check for battery voltage at TR sensor terminal (R/LB).
Is voltage present?
Yes REPAIR open in Circuit 32 (R/LB) between relay and sensor/switch.
NO GO to B6.

B6 BATTERY FEED TO TRANSMISSION RANGE (TR) SENSOR, aka Manual Lever Position Sensor/Transmission Range (TR) Sensor
See pics by jermil01 @ 1992 Ford Bronco MLPS pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
With key in START position, check for battery voltage at TR sensor terminal (W/PK).
Is voltage present?
Yes CHECK TR sensor switch adjustment. REFER to below note 1
REPLACE sensor/switch, if properly adjjusted
NO REPAIR open in circuit between sensor/switch and starter relay.

B7 BATTERY FEED TO CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
With key in START position, check for battery voltage at CPP switch terminal (R/LB).
Is voltage present?
Yes GO to B8.
No REPAIR open in circuit between ignition switch and CPP switch.

B8 CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION (CPP) SWITCH CONTINUITY
With key in START position and clutch pedal pressed, check for battery voltage at CPP switch terminal (W/PK).
Is voltage present?
Yes REPAIR open in circuit between CPP switch and starter relay.
No REPLACE CPP switch.

B9 STARTER RELAY GROUND
Check for continuity between relay mounting bracket and clean chassis ground.
Is there continuity?
Yes REPLACE starter relay.
No CLEAN ground connection.

B10 BATTERY FEED TO STARTER SOLENOID ATOP STARTER, NOT THE RELAY ON PASSENGER FENDER LINER:
With key/push-button switch in start position, check for battery voltage at starter solenoid S terminal (R/BL).
Is battery voltage present?
Yes GO to B11.
No REPAIR open in Circuit 32 (R/BL) between relay and solenoid.

B11 STARTER SOLENOID ATOP STARTER, NOT THE RELAY ON PASSENGER FENDER LINER:
Check starter solenoid: inspect wire &;
Starter Solenoid
Disconnect battery negative cable.
Using a Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 014-00407 or equivalent, check windings of solenoid assembly for continuity as follows:
Check resistance of solenoid pull-in and hold-in windings in series by measuring resistance between motor terminal and solenoid case. Resistance should be approximately 0.95 ohms.
An extremely high resistance reading indicates a break or fault in winding continuity. A very low resistance reading indicates a short or ground in the winding circuit. Either condition is cause for replacement of the solenoid assembly.
Is starter solenoid OK?
Yes REMOVE starter and perform no-load test at parts store.
No REPLACE starter solenoid.
°Note 1 Transmission Range (TR) Sensor
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description Tool Number
Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (MLPS) Alignment Tool T92P-70010-AH
Remove nut securing manual control lever (7A256) to transmission range (TR) sensor.
Turn manual control lever to NEUTRAL position.
Loosen two TR sensor retaining bolts.
Align TR sensor slots using Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (MLPS) Alignment Tool T92P-70010-AH.
Tighten retaining bolts to 6-8 Nm (55-75 lb-in) for E40D and to 7-10 Nm (62-89 lb-in) for 4R70W.
Install nut retaining manual control lever to TR sensor. Tighten to 27-38 Nm (20-29 lb-ft) for E4OD and to 30-35 Nm (22-26 lb-ft) for 4R70W.
Or, as bigric wrote, "...You don't need a tool. Just put it in neutral, loosen the bolts, and line up the marks."

Or, Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB


Pic by ElKabong

"STARTER MOTOR SPINS BUT DOESN'T CRANK ENGINE:
Check Starter drive engagement & flywheel.
Inspect flywheel and drive pinion for damage or excessive wear. See image.
Check operation of drive pinion overrunning clutch;
UNUSUAL STARTER MOTOR NOISE DURING STARTER MOTOR OVERRUN

D1 CHECK STARTER MOTOR MOUNTING
Inspect the starter motor mounting.
Check the starter motor mounting bolts for looseness.
Is the starter motor mounted properly?
Yes GO to D2. No REMOUNT or REPLACE the starter motor.

D2 CHECK STARTER DRIVE ENGAGEMENT
Remove the starter motor.
Inspect the starter drive and flywheel for damage. REFER to Pinpoint Test C1.
Are the starter drive and flywheel OK?
Yes CHECK drive pinion overrunning clutch. REFER to Component Tests in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.
No REPLACE as necessary."

Ignition Switch Mechanical Test
NOTE: Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch.

NOTE: Do not apply lubricant to the inside of the ignition switch.
Test the steering column ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
Loose column
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch.


Our own Paul Bunyon of Big Northern Broncos, Sixlitre described a no crank issue that involved the actuator rod issue in a tilt column, but applicable to non-tilt; "...He turned the key on to crank (nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD (with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch (it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die). He also recommended I change that pot metal actuator rod assembly (Ford # E9TZ*3E715*B, $16.32 CDN). This took him half an hour and if I'd been able to do it I estimate even after my install lesson would have taken me most of the day..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB
I won't suggest that you try to manually manipulate actuator if starter rotates with key off because of possible damage to: starter, pinion, flywheel etc. But you can disconnect battery, hook up a meter or 12vdc test lamp and test for continuity on the red/light blue wire Circuit."
 

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790 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yo Fox,
Following by Ford with additions by the usual suspects;

View attachment 153326

Item Part Number Description
1 3F532 Key Release Lever Spring
2 11572 Ignition Switch
3 7210 Gearshift Lever
4 7A247 Park/Neutral Position Switch or
5 11A152 Clutch Pedal Position Switch
6 11450 Starter Motor Relay
7 11001 Starter Motor
8 11390 Starter Solenoid
9 10655 Battery
B1 check the battery voltage, terminals and cables to ground & alternator for loose or corroded connections.

Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. (Remember, when measuring battery voltage, everything in the car should be off, or the battery should be disconnected. Voltage measurements are always "no load" measurements unless the battery is being tested for it's performance under load)..." by Gordon

Ground Location, Frame from Battery pic in a 94 5.8;

"...Frame ground just inboard of the R spring tower. The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body..."
Source: by CodysBigBlueBronco (how much $???)

Frame Ground location (Passenger side Cross member above
engine mount)

by jowens1126

Intake Manifold to Block Strap on oassenger side Location pic in a 96 5. by bossind



Inspect STARTER RELAY GROUND; relay located on PASSENGER FENDER LINER, near battery, see Starter Relay pic in a 95

Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk)
》Check for continuity between relay mounting bracket and clean chassis ground. Rust, grime, paint etc interferes with relay control circuit.
B3 STARTER RELAY FUNCTION
CAUTION: Make sure transmission is in neutral and parking brake is applied.
Connect remote starter switch between battery terminal at starter relay and starter relay S terminal.
Press remote starter switch button or jump it.
Does starter crank engine?
Yes If equipped with an automatic transmission, GO to B4. If equipped with a manual transmission, GO to B7. If relay does not click, GO to B9.
If relay clicks, GO to B10.

B4 With key in START position, check for battery voltage at starter relay S terminal (R/BL). It is the smallest terminal on the relay and the R/BL wire has a push on/pull off connector.

Is battery voltage present?
Yes GO to B9.
NO GO to B5.

B5 BATTERY FEED FROM TRANSMISSION RANGE (TR) SENSOR
With key in START position, check for battery voltage at TR sensor terminal (R/LB).
Is voltage present?
Yes REPAIR open in Circuit 32 (R/LB) between relay and sensor/switch.
NO GO to B6.

B6 BATTERY FEED TO TRANSMISSION RANGE (TR) SENSOR, aka Manual Lever Position Sensor/Transmission Range (TR) Sensor
See pics by jermil01 @ 1992 Ford Bronco MLPS pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
With key in START position, check for battery voltage at TR sensor terminal (W/PK).
Is voltage present?
Yes CHECK TR sensor switch adjustment. REFER to below note 1
REPLACE sensor/switch, if properly adjjusted
NO REPAIR open in circuit between sensor/switch and starter relay.

B7 BATTERY FEED TO CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
With key in START position, check for battery voltage at CPP switch terminal (R/LB).
Is voltage present?
Yes GO to B8.
No REPAIR open in circuit between ignition switch and CPP switch.

B8 CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION (CPP) SWITCH CONTINUITY
With key in START position and clutch pedal pressed, check for battery voltage at CPP switch terminal (W/PK).
Is voltage present?
Yes REPAIR open in circuit between CPP switch and starter relay.
No REPLACE CPP switch.

B9 STARTER RELAY GROUND
Check for continuity between relay mounting bracket and clean chassis ground.
Is there continuity?
Yes REPLACE starter relay.
No CLEAN ground connection.

B10 BATTERY FEED TO STARTER SOLENOID ATOP STARTER, NOT THE RELAY ON PASSENGER FENDER LINER:
With key/push-button switch in start position, check for battery voltage at starter solenoid S terminal (R/BL).
Is battery voltage present?
Yes GO to B11.
No REPAIR open in Circuit 32 (R/BL) between relay and solenoid.

B11 STARTER SOLENOID ATOP STARTER, NOT THE RELAY ON PASSENGER FENDER LINER:
Check starter solenoid: inspect wire &;
Starter Solenoid
Disconnect battery negative cable.
Using a Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 014-00407 or equivalent, check windings of solenoid assembly for continuity as follows:
Check resistance of solenoid pull-in and hold-in windings in series by measuring resistance between motor terminal and solenoid case. Resistance should be approximately 0.95 ohms.
An extremely high resistance reading indicates a break or fault in winding continuity. A very low resistance reading indicates a short or ground in the winding circuit. Either condition is cause for replacement of the solenoid assembly.
Is starter solenoid OK?
Yes REMOVE starter and perform no-load test at parts store.
No REPLACE starter solenoid.
°Note 1 Transmission Range (TR) Sensor
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description Tool Number
Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (MLPS) Alignment Tool T92P-70010-AH
Remove nut securing manual control lever (7A256) to transmission range (TR) sensor.
Turn manual control lever to NEUTRAL position.
Loosen two TR sensor retaining bolts.
Align TR sensor slots using Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (MLPS) Alignment Tool T92P-70010-AH.
Tighten retaining bolts to 6-8 Nm (55-75 lb-in) for E40D and to 7-10 Nm (62-89 lb-in) for 4R70W.
Install nut retaining manual control lever to TR sensor. Tighten to 27-38 Nm (20-29 lb-ft) for E4OD and to 30-35 Nm (22-26 lb-ft) for 4R70W.
Or, as bigric wrote, "...You don't need a tool. Just put it in neutral, loosen the bolts, and line up the marks."

Or, Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB


Pic by ElKabong

"STARTER MOTOR SPINS BUT DOESN'T CRANK ENGINE:
Check Starter drive engagement & flywheel.
Inspect flywheel and drive pinion for damage or excessive wear. See image.
Check operation of drive pinion overrunning clutch;
UNUSUAL STARTER MOTOR NOISE DURING STARTER MOTOR OVERRUN

D1 CHECK STARTER MOTOR MOUNTING
Inspect the starter motor mounting.
Check the starter motor mounting bolts for looseness.
Is the starter motor mounted properly?
Yes GO to D2. No REMOUNT or REPLACE the starter motor.

D2 CHECK STARTER DRIVE ENGAGEMENT
Remove the starter motor.
Inspect the starter drive and flywheel for damage. REFER to Pinpoint Test C1.
Are the starter drive and flywheel OK?
Yes CHECK drive pinion overrunning clutch. REFER to Component Tests in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.
No REPLACE as necessary."

Ignition Switch Mechanical Test
NOTE: Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch.

NOTE: Do not apply lubricant to the inside of the ignition switch.
Test the steering column ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
Loose column
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch.


Our own Paul Bunyon of Big Northern Broncos, Sixlitre described a no crank issue that involved the actuator rod issue in a tilt column, but applicable to non-tilt; "...He turned the key on to crank (nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD (with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch (it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die). He also recommended I change that pot metal actuator rod assembly (Ford # E9TZ*3E715*B, $16.32 CDN). This took him half an hour and if I'd been able to do it I estimate even after my install lesson would have taken me most of the day..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB
I won't suggest that you try to manually manipulate actuator if starter rotates with key off because of possible damage to: starter, pinion, flywheel etc. But you can disconnect battery, hook up a meter or 12vdc test lamp and test for continuity on the red/light blue wire Circuit."
Thank you miesk fr the detail problem solving !!! ill go one by one
 
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