[Damager]

can I do body work with a stick welder or would it be too powerful and burn through? ... looking to replace floorboards and part of the bed in the rear of the truck

I finally have coin for a welder and am debating on a 225 ARC or a 135 wire feed ... I know I could do it with the wire feed turned down .. right? .................. but the ARC is half the price and I could do heavy stuff with it too

what do ya think ....

 

[NOBS!]

I'd say wait just a little longer and get a 230v mig.It will do whatever you need to do on your truck. Spot welding and stitching with a stick is just going to piss you off. Get a stick(ac/dc) a couple years down the road if you feel the need to weld thick rusty stuff. do not get a 135 regardless of what anybody says. a 175 is at the top end welding 1/4. but then again anyone who learned on stick will say you should learn on stick(ac/dc) not just ac.

btw I'm going to have my old man teach me how to weld with my oxy/ace instead of just cutting with it. :thumbup

 

[Guest]

You can do it, but it's not easy.
It the pieces your putting together are solid and clean it will work.

And if your thinking about brazing, well bondo won't stick to brazing, plus you usually warp the metal pretty bad.

 

[Damager]

look at my choices for 230 and 115

just too expensive

http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortme...prd_id=845524441900867&assortment=assortment1

I would like to get this one

http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortme...<>ast_id=1408474395348027&bmUID=1069862669366

 

[NOBS!]

look at my choices for 230 and 115

just too expensive

http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortme...prd_id=845524441900867&assortment=assortment1

I would like to get this one

http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortme...<>ast_id=1408474395348027&bmUID=1069862669366

look elsewhere

 

[NOBS!]

And if your thinking about brazing, well bondo won't stick to brazing, plus you usually warp the metal pretty bad.

if you're talking to me,I'm not planning on it. I would like to learn a new (to me) process though

 

[Davids78Bronco]

I'd say wait just a little longer and get a 230v mig. but then again anyone who learned on stick will say you should learn on stick(ac/dc) not just ac.

btw I'm going to have my old man teach me how to weld with my oxy/ace instead of just cutting with it. :thumbup

Yup, I'd tell anyone to learn on an arc welder first, too. Take a look at the Eastwood Co's website, for a stitch welder. That's exactly what you need, to weld body panels. I'm planning on getting me one asap

btw, I love gas welding, but it definitely takes a bit more finesse and patience. It's so much fun tho :thumbup

 

[welndmn]

I would go for the 120V mig.
Welding sheetmetal with a stick sucks.
welding sheet metal with 220V mig sucks as well.
I plan on buying a cheapy 120V mig to do sheetmetal.
It gets really old replaceing the wire in my mig to a .20 wire each time i have to do body pannels

 

[NOBS!]

welding sheet metal with 220V mig sucks as well.

only because you're too lazy to change over :goodfinge

it doesn't sound like he's in the market for a seperate welder for each job.

 

[Damager]

it doesn't sound like he's in the market for a seperate welder for each job.

that's right ... I have $800 and I have to include 15% tax to everything I buy thanks to the pricks of the province of quebec

so my options are limited :shrug

 

[Damager]

I am thinking the only thing I can do is the Lincoln MIG-PAK 10 Welder ... it's only 100 amps though .. it states up to 1/4 inch in one pass, but can I really believe that is the question? .. specs below

Unit Includes (Canadian model only): Magnum 100L welding gun and 10 ft. (3.0m) cable assembly with .023-.025" contact tip and gas nozzle installed, 10 ft. (3.0m) work cable and work clamp, factory installed gas solenoid valve, 2 lb. spool .025" SuperArc L-56 mild steel MIG wire, 1 lb. spool .035" Innershield NR-211-MP mild steel self-shielded flux-cored wire, six spare .023-.025" contact tips, welding handshield with #10 filter plate and clear glass cover plate, and instructional video. Note: K1606-1, CTC Product No. 58-8133-0, Shielding Gas Regulator/Hose Kit Sold Separately.

• 30-100 amps output.
• Welds up to 1/4 in. steel.
• Ready to weld with MIG on mild steel. Shielding gas and gas regulator/hose kit sold separately. Also welds .035" self-shielded (gasless) flux-cored wire.
• Plugs into 115V, 20 amp outlet.
• Gun trigger safety feature keeps welding wire electrically "cold" until trigger is pressed.
• Compact, portable, lightweight and easy-to-use.
• This combination wire feeder/CV power source is recommended for .023-.030" solid wire MIG (gas-shielded) welding of virtually any light gauge, mild steel or stainless steel material (stainless steel wire sold separately). Install K664-2 Aluminum Welding Kit to expand the MIG-PAK 10's capabilities to include .035" solid wire MIG welding of aluminum.
• Welder settings reference chart conveniently located inside wire feed section door makes it easy to set the MIG-PAK 10 for mild steel welding jobs.
• Fan-cooled for long life expectancy.
• Three year warranty on parts and labor. (90 days warranty on gun and cable).

 

[Davids78Bronco]

If you're just planning on light welding, this sounds like a perfectly good welder to use. I would also consider an Ar/CO2 mix bottle, and using hardwire, instead of jsut the fluxcore wire. For your body panels, get .020" wire

 

[Damager]

thanks Dave... as beefy as it gets will be skid plates .. this should be sufficient?

 

[SquattyD]

i would say so. my friend has the same welder, and if you get good with it, its a great all around welder. 1/4 is pushing it, but it can be dont. skid plates i would say ok, but welding 1/4 on anything vital to the truck (suspension) i would avoid.

and the mix is good, dont really use flux core that much, i think 80/20 mix.

 

[Damager]

what about the Hobart 135 Mig Welder ?

haven't people had problems with Hobart stuff or am I remembering wrong?

 

[rbaney]

Hobart 135 handler here. Thats what I have works great and came with the hose and regulator to hook up gas. I also have a 130 hobart at my dads' house and it works good for 3/16 and down for single pass. I see nothing wrong with the hobart its made by the same people as miller.

 

[NOBS!]

I wouldn't use it on anything but sheetmetal. i think the hobart come with a gas kit.

 

[axaviere]

if you get the higher end mig welders they have a setting for stitch welding & timed spot welding. some of the cheap harbor freight migs have stitch/spot timers too. i got a 230V/175A lincoln mig for $445 off ebay. you can find them cheap if shipping the into your area isnt a problem. i like the 230V but the thing is, if you can bring all your projects close to that welder thats fine. if you dont have a place to plug it in close to your vehicle, your not going to be able to fit stuff as easy. a 120V you can run a HD cord out of any outlet. that guy in 4 wheeler built a tube front end, shock hoops & cage on his Yota with just a 135. i built my sliders on my truck, it seemed easier. glad i got me a 50' 230V extension cord. i think the 135 hobart would do you. but the 175 hobart is my suggestion. can you find one of them? you can go as low as 35 amps & i think .020 or .023 should run thru it with the right tip.

 

[Damager]

you need to look at the links I posted above and see the prices ... in the states it a in't so bad .. go take a look


of course I want a 175, but it too damn expensive up here


what's your opinion of the MIG PAK 10?

 

[axaviere]

i think that would be a decent welder. but compared to a hobart 135 whats the cost? with the hobart, you get gas lines & a regulator. but they only cost $30 at harbor freight. they go for $440 at harbor freight. the 175 hobarts go for like $575 at the local tractor supply places with a cart. can you get stuff shipped to you? i tried the links, but i dont get a welder. could someone ship you the hobart?