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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 91 had some real bad vibrations coming from the rear of the truck when I was on the gas, and they would go away as soon as I let off the pedal. Well, once I got back to SC, I decided to go ahead and change out my u joints, no big deal, or so I thought. I had never dealt with this CV joint that connects the tcase to the driveshaft. When I was removing the old u-joints (which were trashed, by the way) the ball and socket joint inside the CV joint fell apart, and all of the needle bearings fell out. I guess I screwed myself there. So, I went to all the auto parts stores around here, and nobody has anything. They didnt even have a driveshaft for me to order. I am planning on taking my driveshaft to a machine shop, and having them fix this damn bearing. I dont really have a question here, except for maybe how much would I be looking at to get it fixed? I am a lowly enlisted Marine, so I dont have much in the way of expendable income, and do not want to be driving around for very long in 4x4. Help!

Truck in question


ETA: would it maybe be cheaper for me to just get a new driveshaft? Where would I get one?
 

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Kitteh Commandaar!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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I know ericautopart sells driveshaft stuff. Check in the Vendor Forum, you'll find him there, & there may be other vendors in there as well. Sometimes they give us pretty good pricing.

Also go to the User CP & add your Bronco info & approximate location.
<-------- It'll show up over there on every post. Driveshafts vary by year & trans, & who knows, maybe someone nearby might have one.

Nice, clean looking Bronco, BTW. :thumbup
 

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go to advance aut and tell them you need Part Number: U9181 if they dont have it in stock they can have it the next day. I know this cause you have the same truck as i do and i did these jounts already
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I know ericautopart sells driveshaft stuff. Check in the Vendor Forum, you'll find him there, & there may be other vendors in there as well. Sometimes they give us pretty good pricing.

Also go to the User CP & add your Bronco info & approximate location.
<-------- It'll show up over there on every post. Driveshafts vary by year & trans, & who knows, maybe someone nearby might have one.

Nice, clean looking Bronco, BTW. :thumbup
I will check him out, thanks! here are a few more pics. She has some paint peeling, and a few small rust spots, but other than that, body is in good shape.





Look what I found

 

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Try it now!!
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I know the driveshaft feeling. I went through about 7 ujoints and 3 ball and socket double cardan joints before I gave up and took it to a driveshaft shop. 7 years ago I paid 250 to have it completely rebuilt with spicer parts, balanced, and painted.

Besides normal lubing, I havent had to touch it since. Best 250 bucks I ever spent. I just couldnt install the double cardan properly on my own.

I went to Universal Service in Charlotte. Pick up the phone book and get on the horn. I'm sure someone around Beufort/Savannah can do it.
 

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You better be REAL easy on those front auto hubs while you're cruising around in 4WD.

Doing it with manual hubs is MUCH safer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I havent driven it in solely FWD yet, and I am only going to do it to drive to work tomorrow (2 miles away) and then am going to take my drive shaft out to the Auto Machine shop in the morning. Hope fully this repair doesnt take too long, the Bronco is my only mode of transportation, and I am going to need it here shortly. Luckily I stay on base, so I dont have very far to go to get to work.
 

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my bko ate my money
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the manuals is by far one of the best mods you can do its way better then bein stuck out in the middle of nowhere
 

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I havent driven it in solely FWD yet, and I am only going to do it to drive to work tomorrow (2 miles away) and then am going to take my drive shaft out to the Auto Machine shop in the morning.
That's not too bad, just remember...

1) NO hard acceleration. Whatsoever. At all. Just don't do it.

2) Light on the pedal... extremely light during turns. Try and coast them if you can.

3) Don't be on and off the pedal continuously. Every time you let off the pedal, your hubs are disengaging... that's how they work. Your shafts turn faster then the wheels, they engage. Wheels turn faster then the shafts, they disengage. So coasting then pushing on the gas kinda slams them back into engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Screw it, I am either gonna walk, or I will get a ride. I am in talks with eric right now, and we are gonna work something out. Wow, what a pain in the ass. Oh, and the hubs are on the short list once this issue gets resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, i just ordered a new driveshaft from Eric, and it should be here in a few days. Now I need manual hubs and my drivers seat just broke. Damn money pit:toothless

The Machine Shop wanted $90 in labor and $50 - $60 in parts. I told them no thanks and got a new driveshaft for not much more. Note to others: unless you have all the parts and a balancer, dont attempt to disassemble the rear driveshaft Cardan joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I got the new driveshaft yesterday, and installed it today. Works great. The previous vibration is gone, and I finally can disengage the 4x4 in my truck, yay for being able to turn!

BIG thanks to Ericautoparts, he got it to me fast and it was a very reasonable price.

 
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