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Discussion Starter #1
..and already she's punishing me LOL.

Dropped her off today at the stealership for a rear main seal replacement. Also gonna get them to see if they can get the water pump to stop leaking while they've got the engine pulled.

FIRST and only day I drove her to work, about 30 miles today, and I caught a screw in the front tire. Went flat overnight almost, I was hoping it would make it until morning but eh.

Lugnuts on her weren't the originals so I nearly rounded one getting it off and the other had one of those crappy lugnut covers on it that covered up a crappy old bolt.

One of the plastic anchors on the hub covers was completely shot, had to force it out with a flathead since the bolt just spun and spun in it.

On the way to the stealership she started to idle rough at stoplights, I think it may be the IAC...having them peek at it and if they say that's the case I'll just do it myself. Looks pretty easy.

Haha she's a mean one so far but I still love her. :armed


Always was a sucker for a redhead.
 

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Dropped her off today at the stealership for a rear main seal replacement. Also gonna get them to see if they can get the water pump to stop leaking while they've got the engine pulled.
That's why. Broncos don't like stealerships.
 

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Dropped her off today at the stealership for a rear main seal replacement. Also gonna get them to see if they can get the water pump to stop leaking while they've got the engine pulled.
That's why. Broncos don't like stealerships.

Yeah I hear that man I don't either but nobody else around here has the equipment to pull an engine. I was calling everywhere. The one place who could do it didn't have time for like another two weeks.

I can do a water pump myself but since they're pulling the engine anyways and its a new pump I figure it just needs a few bolts tightened or maybe the gasket redone. Either won't be much work since they're pulling the engine anyways. :)
 

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Just curious ... why are they pulling your engine for a rear main seal?
+1

that's a drop the transmission kind of a job
 

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Just curious ... why are they pulling your engine for a rear main seal?


Also replacing the oil pan and oil pan gasket, both of which are leaking, and gotta pull the engine for that I believe. At least that's what I'd assumed, this isn't explicitly what they said.


BTW, found out my Bronco was effected by that service recall on the cruise control switch; they're swapping that out while it's there too. Which explains the cruise control not working!
 

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Also replacing the oil pan and oil pan gasket, both of which are leaking, and gotta pull the engine for that I believe. At least that's what I'd assumed, this isn't explicitly what they said.


BTW, found out my Bronco was effected by that service recall on the cruise control switch; they're swapping that out while it's there too. Which explains the cruise control not working!
I did the oil pan gasket on my truck with the engine still installed. In fact i did the timing set, water pump and associated gaskets while I was in there. Having the timing cover off made it a piece of cake. After that I wondered
A- why I had put it off so long
B- Why everyone thought it was such a big deal.

Unless a hole rusted in the oil pan I see no reason why it would need to be replaced.
 

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Really? I read a lot of threads where people said it was tough or darn near impossible to do with the engine still in.
 

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Really? I read a lot of threads where people said it was tough or darn near impossible to do with the engine still in.
Yeah, alot of people say alot of things. If you lift the engine up and use the single piece Felpro Permadry gasket with the little dowel pin things they give you it's not hard. The worst part for me is that I can feel sick easily if I lay upside down under a car too long.
 

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Yeah, alot of people say alot of things. If you lift the engine up and use the single piece Felpro Permadry gasket with the little dowel pin things they give you it's not hard. The worst part for me is that I can feel sick easily if I lay upside down under a car too long.


Right on. I may just get them to skip the oil pan replacement and save myself some dough for right now, and just get them to do the trans pull version of the rear main seal.

Depends on the difference in quote they give me of course. As I said in another thread I'm all about preventative parts replacement given an unknown factor, and I thought I'd pop a new oil pump in there while they had it pulled.
 

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Right on. I may just get them to skip the oil pan replacement and save myself some dough for right now, and just get them to do the trans pull version of the rear main seal.

Depends on the difference in quote they give me of course. As I said in another thread I'm all about preventative parts replacement given an unknown factor, and I thought I'd pop a new oil pump in there while they had it pulled.
If your engine is producing good oil pressure I see no reason to put in a new oil pump. Why replace parts that are in good shape and not worn?

Personally I do everything myself in my driveway.
A- I don't trust anyone to work on my stuff
B- I'm too cheap
C- I like to do it myself so I know it's done right
 

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Right on. I may just get them to skip the oil pan replacement and save myself some dough for right now, and just get them to do the trans pull version of the rear main seal.,,
YO FF,
FYI on the rear main seal so you know the Ford process;

Section 03-01B: Engine, 5.0L and 5.8L MFI

1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 and Bronco Vehicles Equipped with 5.0L or 5.8L MFI Engines Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)
Same as most earlier years exc. for OBD II in 96, 4WABS (93-96); ABS (87-92); Air Bag (94-96); 3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.); and a few other items
(still need time to go through all pages to confirm other differences)


IN-VEHICLE SERVICE
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal — 5.8LSPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description
Tool Number
Rear Oil Seal Replacer T65P-6701-A
Removal
1.Remove the transmission (7003) as outlined in Group 07.
2.If equipped with manual transmission, remove clutch assembly as outlined in Section 08-01.
3.Remove flywheel attaching bolts and remove rear cap (main bearing) and flywheel (6375).
4. CAUTION: Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface.
Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal (6701). Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft (6303) and just above the bearing cap-to-cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block (6010) to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars.
5.Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap. Inspect and clean the oil seal contact surface on the crankshaft.


Installation
1.Coat the oil seal-to-cylinder block surfaces of the crankshaft rear oil seal with oil XO-5W30-QSP or -DSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E. Coat the seal contact surface of the crankshaft rear oil seal and crankshaft with heavy SG engine oil. Place crankshaft rear oil seal on Rear Oil Seal Replacer T65P-6701-A and, using hammer, tap into place until tool contacts face of cylinder block or bearing cap.

Item
Part Number
Description
1 T65P-6701-A Rear Oil Seal Replacer
2 6701 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
2.Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil resistant sealer. Install the bolts and tighten in an opposing pattern, to 102-115 Nm (75-85 lb-ft).
3.Install flywheel.
4.If equipped, install clutch.
5.Install transmission.
6.Check engine oil level and refill as required.
7.Start engine and check for leaks.
 

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Right on. I may just get them to skip the oil pan replacement and save myself some dough for right now, and just get them to do the trans pull version of the rear main seal.
Honestly bud, they were probably going to do the seal the easier way and charge you for the engine pull labor...trusting people with your truck is a slippery ledge...

No lie, when I had my E-250 Ford van years ago, I had a Ford dealer in Hillsboro, Oregon tell me they had to pull the body off the van to do a shock change out...God's truth! I took it to a Meineke that I trusted for misc. stuff, (I didn't have a garage to work on my vehicles because we were renting an apartment), and they knocked it out in 2 hours and I was on my way. Sometimes it better to not say what you want done but tell them to diagnose it and come to you with the estimate and the procedure they intend to use.
 
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