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1991 Centurion Classic C350 - 7.3 IDI / E4OD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have replaced the actuators and the latch lock assemblies and my power locks don't seem to be working.

The actuators and latch lock assemblies are all brand new from Bronco Graveyard.

Everything moves freely by hand, but it's like the actuator isn't strong enough or the resistance of the setup is enough to keep it from operating properly. The key will actuate the latch as well.

I haven't checked in a while, but I am pretty certain the voltage on the line was where it should be.

Thoughts?
 

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with the door panel off the door, when you activate the power lock switch, what do you observe the actuator doing?
 
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1991 Centurion Classic C350 - 7.3 IDI / E4OD
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
with the door panel off the door, when you activate the power lock switch, what do you observe the actuator doing?
As a reminder, these are brand new actuators and latch lock assemblies, and multiple doors are performing the same.

The bottom of latch assembly, where the actuator connects, seems stiff. You can see things 'jump' when the buttons are pressed.
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 mostly stock
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1,720 Posts
Did you also replace all the nylon bushings and rod clips? Is the rivet holding the actuator on still good and tight? All that stuff has to be lined up properly. Inspect the ends of all the rods and make sure they aren't rusted, if they are they may bind if you put a new clip on it so make sure they are all clean while you're at it. Also the tabs some of the rods go through can get bent when you go to removing or working in that tight spot.

I bought an "OEM" actuator for my 86 and apparently the application it was listed for was wrong, and the rod on the actuator itself was slightly longer (about a half inch) than my original one. So i took the rod off my old actuator and put on the new one and everything worked great. It's not a simple little swap though, it requires a little effort and patience as its held in place with a little collar and a BB.
 

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1991 Centurion Classic C350 - 7.3 IDI / E4OD
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you also replace all the nylon bushings and rod clips? Is the rivet holding the actuator on still good and tight? All that stuff has to be lined up properly. Inspect the ends of all the rods and make sure they aren't rusted, if they are they may bind if you put a new clip on it so make sure they are all clean while you're at it. Also the tabs some of the rods go through can get bent when you go to removing or working in that tight spot.

I bought an "OEM" actuator for my 86 and apparently the application it was listed for was wrong, and the rod on the actuator itself was slightly longer (about a half inch) than my original one. So i took the rod off my old actuator and put on the new one and everything worked great. It's not a simple little swap though, it requires a little effort and patience as its held in place with a little collar and a BB.
Thanks for all the ideas - if anything it's a bit of a sanity checko_O

  • The bushings and rod clips are new, they came pre installed on the new latch lock assemblies.
  • My experience was the same with the actuator, and I had to swap the rods from my original units.
  • The rivets had to be replaced as part of the actuator replacement. I actually used rivets, and it seems tight.
  • I soaked everything for a few days in Evaporust, so things are pretty shiny but they aren't perfect obviously as the rust process and subsequent removal of said rust leaves a not factory surface. However, I have covered everything in PB Silicon spray.
 

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1991 Centurion Classic C350 - 7.3 IDI / E4OD
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
At this point I have been working on these doors for almost two weeks. Thinking it might be time to take it somewhere, unless someone on here with experience is in the Tulsa area and accepts a free lunch as a bribe hah
 

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1991 Centurion Classic C350 - 7.3 IDI / E4OD
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm curious if there is some sort of adjustment I should be doing with the actuators. That metal arm that spins out of the end in particular. Do I need to spin/screw that all the way "out" when installing it? I saw a couple posts alluding to that on various places online, but I'd think if it was normal more replacement threads would mention it.
 

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1991 XLT. 5.0, E4OD, manual transfer case, 4.10 LS, factory manual lockouts
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904 Posts
3 Broncos in and I never have had ant luck with the aftermarket actuators. They are 12 volt, have you tried putting 12 volt power to them directly? Switch polarity to move the opposite direction. Would eliminate everything but the actuators.
 

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1991 Centurion Classic C350 - 7.3 IDI / E4OD
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
3 Broncos in and I never have had ant luck with the aftermarket actuators. They are 12 volt, have you tried putting 12 volt power to them directly? Switch polarity to move the opposite direction. Would eliminate everything but the actuators.
What do you then? ignore the locks? I can't even manually use the locks if the actuators are hooked up.
 
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