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Discussion Starter #41
I can certainly get it done, and done right. Its really simple. Though im sure there are lots of folks here who have done it.
theres a muffler shop near me but i dont have a rod, whats the correct diameter so i can find it
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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theres a muffler shop near me but i dont have a rod, whats the correct diameter so i can find it
Looks like 3/16" from a couple threads
 

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It's 3/16". Ive done the mod before, used scrap rod. I can weld it for you if it works better but with the way things have been lately I can't garantee anything on turnaround. Alternatively you can use a thick piece of plastic bent into a U shape in the channel to cushion it and delay issues, Steve83 did that on his but I'm not sure if anyone else has.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
It's 3/16". Ive done the mod before, used scrap rod. I can weld it for you if it works better but with the way things have been lately I can't garantee anything on turnaround. Alternatively you can use a thick piece of plastic bent into a U shape in the channel to cushion it and delay issues, Steve83 did that on his but I'm not sure if anyone else has.
but still, the rod is the best way to do so, ill see if i can find a 3/16 rod around or similar
i dont think i can jb weld it wither XD cause im sure it will break off
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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If you use that np208 you don’t have to do the pump arm mod, those don’t have one.
But if you are rebuilding a BorgWarner case and you do get that welded, it is really important to keep it clean inside that case. One slag booger floating around in there could really screw up your day if it gets into the wrong place, ask me how I know....
Another option is the just bend the pump arm a little, then it has to wear against a different spot and will take 100k+ miles before you have to worry about it being an issue again
 
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Discussion Starter #47
If you use that np208 you don’t have to do the pump arm mod, those don’t have one.
But if you are rebuilding a BorgWarner case and you do get that welded, it is really important to keep it clean inside that case. One slag booger floating around in there could really screw up your day if it gets into the wrong place, ask me how I know....
Another option is the just bend the pump arm a little, then it has to wear against a different spot and will take 100k+ miles before you have to worry about it being an issue again
you mean like take abit of the sheet metal and bend it up? so it has more surface area?
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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you mean like take abit of the sheet metal and bend it up? so it has more surface area?
Just bend an angle so it touches the case in a new spot. That sheet metal arm touches the aluminum transfer case housing and eventually wears through it, you just bend the sheet metal to touch a new spot. It won’t change the surface area and it will still wear eventually, but you are wearing against a new spot so it has to start from zero again basically, so it will take a long time to get another wear spot at the new place it touches after you bend it
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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If that np208 transfer case from the other page is still available, I would run that. In theory, the borg warner case is stronger in terms of brute force, but I’ve had better long term reliability out of the np208 cases. Maybe that is just me, but that has been my experience
 
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Discussion Starter #51
Looks like 3/16" from a couple threads
i got the transfer! i got it from another guy cause the other one couldnt come :/ this one was like 20$ more like 120 but says the motor works, i have to change the rear flange and take the mechanical speedo from the transfer, but everything else looks pretty much spot on
177750
177751
177752
 

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Discussion Starter #52
So fellows! let me know, what you think?
its pretty dirty liquid but i think its because the guy had it outside

chain is well ehh not the best but i think i can still use it, doesnt feel like its skipping, but if i dont hold the shaft fully to the left then is a crazy amount of slop, but if i hold the shaft its pretty good

motor works! i tested it with my truck and it turns over but for some reason its not locking into 4H position, i think its because it has a sensor on the case to let it know when its in position ? please help (also i only tested the motor, not the motor and Tcase with the motor)
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'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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Can't help you with why it won't lock into 4-high, but the inside of that case looks to be in pretty good shape..even the chain..that slop you're seeing will be somewhat taken up when the other half of the case in on. Nothing to worry about in my mind..
 
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I agree, thats nice and clean looking from where im sitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Can't help you with why it won't lock into 4-high, but the inside of that case looks to be in pretty good shape..even the chain..that slop you're seeing will be somewhat taken up when the other half of the case in on. Nothing to worry about in my mind..
all i can see is theres a sensor ish looking thing on one of the plates on the outside going in, maybe it wont until it senses it or passes through the sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Sooooooooooo, WTF!!!! HAHAH i was taking everything apart, and organized as you can see in the picture
Then i drain the old contaminated oil from where the planetary gear is....and then i see shaving and small pieces of metal, im like " ok wtf? where is this all coming from? i dont see any stripped gears or worn parts" , then i see this.

The older guy that sold me this said he had to chisel the old plug out cause it was stuck and the plug was rounded off, i assumed he got it out..... well he got part of that story right XD hahah

but i dont see any damage other then whats in the image in the end

Also DOES ANY ONE KNOW how to change the wear bushings on the forks? thanks in advance
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1994 XL, E40D, 5.0, rear lsd, front auto hubs
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That's funny. I opened my manual tranny from my 04 Stang because of the same thing: a plastic bushing on the fork for second gear that had cracked in two. I then replaced the whole fork with the updated version which was a lot beefier. That don't mean I can tell you how to change your fork bushing...
I'd say first verify if the aftermarket has the bushing, if yes that means it is serviceable, if not then more than likely the whole fork can be ordered.
For the metal shavings, I hope they got sucked close to the magnet when they dropped and that they didn't mess up the tightness of the gears and bearings by lodging in between. Like @BigBlue 94 said.

For the 4x4 light I doubt the system would show 4x4 engaged without a sensor being triggered mechanically in the transfer case.
Plug in the transfer case electrical harness without installing it, to find out, I guess.
Good luck.
 
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