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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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2,343 Posts
I work in the environmental field, and I can tell you it's not just 3M. There are SO MANY companies doing similar things. I won't mention any names, because many of them are clients of my consulting firm, but it's hard to find manufacturers of any product that haven't been involved in similar environmental issues.
Yeah but I'm sure most of them have at least started paying or have paid off their fined and are working in the right direction to clean it up and see it doesn't happen again.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,395 Posts
Yeah but I'm sure most of them have at least started paying or have paid off their fined and are working in the right direction to clean it up and see it doesn't happen again.
Most do try, and THAT is where I (and others) come in with investigations, monitoring, and remediation. Most times, however, when costs to fix it exceed cost of fines....well, you know the rest. It’s all over the place.

And to the topic of this thread...I drove it a around for a while. The A/C is still kickin pretty well, but the condensate that’s drips down seems a lot. Is that indicative of low charge?
 

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Registered
96 XLT 5.8 E4OD 4in lift with 35's
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24 Posts
Drove to my hair cutter today since they are now open again. Figured since I got detailed might as well do the Bronco. Washed and steam cleaned the rugs and a few hours later took my 1,2, and 3 year old grand kids for ice cream. Note to myself: Clean inside of truck after you take kids for ice cream not before!
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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1,445 Posts
Looked at mine while I was putting away fishing gear wishing I wasn’t so damn sore, so I could yard the T_case our and prep it for the replacement
 

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Registered
1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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166 Posts
Finally got my color matched paint from Napa. Pastel sand, golden sand metallic, and some lunar green for an idea I have.
 

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~*~*~*~*~*~*~
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9,987 Posts
Pulled it into driveway to get ready to replace the axle bracket tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes my long awaited steering issue.
 

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Registered
82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
Joined
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2,343 Posts
Finally got my color matched paint from Napa. Pastel sand, golden sand metallic, and some lunar green for an idea I have.
This sounds interesting. Im intrigued ...

Today... Tire rotation, new pads n rotors, replaced missing deer Whistler (thought those little bastards were getting brave. Now I know why 😠).
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
Will do some smaller things, change 2 radius arm bushings (Most Rear ones) and install kick panel carpet.

as no Sender Unit showed up I can not do anything...
 

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Registered
82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
Joined
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2,343 Posts
Will do some smaller things, change 2 radius arm bushings (Most Rear ones) and install kick panel carpet.

as no Sender Unit showed up I can not do anything...
Kick panel carpet? This i gotta see
 

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Registered
1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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935 Posts
Last night I mounted up my new AC compressor. Reinstalled PS pump, alternator and semi adjusted the bolts. Today is radiator, shroud, intake and start on the new ignition. My pile of parts is getting smaller!
 

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Registered
78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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1,836 Posts
Last night I mounted up my new AC compressor. Reinstalled PS pump, alternator and semi adjusted the bolts. Today is radiator, shroud, intake and start on the new ignition. My pile of parts is getting smaller!
Your vacuum tree's lookin' like a pan pipe.
 

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Registered
1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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935 Posts
Today I installed the radiator, shroud, tan. Adjusted the belts. Then installed the intake throttle body and linkage. The 90's coil and bracket will work. Just need to fiddle with it. Still need to clean up the Wiring and di the ignition.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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36,037 Posts
Hey Desert... you've been working that rebuild a good bit. Do you happen to know where I can order a metal fuel line to hook into the pump and feed the carb? PO had a 1/2 ass on the ol' lady's 400 when we got it. I jimmy-rigged with a rubber line but then I had heat issues with it... and the rubber line is leaking so badly now, I can't even start it up.

While I'm at it... the rebuild is lookin' purty! (y) 🍻
 

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Registered
1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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935 Posts
Thanks, Pepe. A dead compressor lead to a bunch of other stuff... so, you need an OE hard line from the mechanical pump to the stock carb? If so, no. However, I'll be in PHX the week after next and there's two JYs that have several of those trucks. No problem for me to swing by look for you. The one that came on mine was hacked up when I got it as they had added 4BBL. I tossed it when I did the EFI. Just let me know.
 

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Registered
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32 Posts
new “used” gate clean and buffed n polished , thought about clear coating it but not on this one, on my 91 I’m going so sand down the aluminum, reflector, and ford emblem with 3k wet and clear coat it with a 4:1 clear with with some black base coat integrated into the clear and apply about 3 costs depending how much black I add to the clear, then..... go back and mix strait clear and apply 3 coats of that and cut & buff to glass after that cures for a nice titanium look .. anyway..
B154E9B8-079C-4FFF-85B7-4AC04E869DAE.jpeg
B1DA5842-360F-4C2B-B64D-115A2BD5F6E2.jpeg
32B0FB98-48DF-4270-A8CB-02D7E00D8DFA.jpeg
 

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Registered
1996 Bronco XLT 5.8L
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152 Posts
new “used” gate clean and buffed n polished , thought about clear coating it but not on this one, on my 91 I’m going so sand down the aluminum, reflector, and ford emblem with 3k wet and clear coat it with a 4:1 clear with with some black base coat integrated into the clear and apply about 3 costs depending how much black I add to the clear, then..... go back and mix strait clear and apply 3 coats of that and cut & buff to glass after that cures for a nice titanium look .. anyway.. View attachment 162374 View attachment 162375 View attachment 162376
Where did u find the gate?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
Joined
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36,037 Posts
Thanks, Pepe. A dead compressor lead to a bunch of other stuff... so, you need an OE hard line from the mechanical pump to the stock carb? If so, no. However, I'll be in PHX the week after next and there's two JYs that have several of those trucks. No problem for me to swing by look for you. The one that came on mine was hacked up when I got it as they had added 4BBL. I tossed it when I did the EFI. Just let me know.
If it's not out of your way and you spot a decent one, that would be cool but don't make a specific effort only on my part. I've got 3 400's around here, so I had been figuring I'd have to pull one, take it to an Auto or possibly even a hardware store and match it up. I've got a flare tool somewhere out there, if I need to go that far. Like I said... not a big deal but I'd be happy to compensate if you happen across a good one. ;)

That's an open invite for anyone else in the FSB Fam too.
 

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Super Moderator
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6,619 Posts
Hey Desert... you've been working that rebuild a good bit. Do you happen to know where I can order a metal fuel line to hook into the pump and feed the carb? PO had a 1/2 ass on the ol' lady's 400 when we got it. I jimmy-rigged with a rubber line but then I had heat issues with it... and the rubber line is leaking so badly now, I can't even start it up.

While I'm at it... the rebuild is lookin' purty! (y) 🍻
Yo! @BikerPepe'

or
 

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Joisey don't smell funny
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1,139 Posts
Upgrading the ground circuit with some leftover 0/1 cable. Battery to block, block to chassis, block to frame. Adding a common ground point to inside the engine bay to run a handful of smaller ground wires to, mostly for switches. Going to need a power cap for the stereo too, lights flicker at night.
 
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