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20101 - 20120 of 20196 Posts

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New solenoid pack installed today.

E4OD was rebuilt back in November when a new solenoid pack was installed.

Can't say enough good things about the rebuilder. Stood behind his work and was more than accommodating in working around my schedule to get the Bronco back in.

Part was under warranty from manufacturer, but he still had to eat the labor and cost for a new filter, fluid, etc.

Good to know folks like this still exist!
 

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Man of endless projects
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9,234 Posts
got my forged 408 stroker kit from FordStrokers. dropped pistons off at machinist so the block will be bored perfectly for the piston specs. cant wait to build this engine for my 96 bronco.

also bought a pair of 36" AG tires for the front of the 88 bronco. if im lucky i will get them mounted and on the truck this weekend. should go nicely with my dually paddy tires in the rear. there not as aggressive but are wider. hopefully wont blow my front axle instantly
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My compressor started short cycling Friday blowing warm air. Low pressure side was 20 when the compressor kicked in and 45 when it kicked off. I took it to the shop that I usually bring it to and the owner couldn’t find a leak after putting in some dye. So it has been 2 days still holding the charge so I guess the leak isn’t big enough yet to find with the dye testing.
 

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Dropped (or should I say kicked) the transfer case today. Got all the motor mount and transmission mount bolts pulled...

Can I pull the engine and transmission out as a unit without removing the grill?
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Not with the standard 2 ton engine lift I use.
Thanks @BikerPepe`, I always had an overhead hoist available to me, or a crane... this is the first time pulling an engine in the grass... well shoot... there goes that... I’ll put the transmission bolts back on tomorrow and tow the thing to the shop and have someone else do the lifting for me.
 

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Found an old Chrisfix video on YouTube redoing rear drum brakes on a Ford. Incredibly helpful. Went to parts store and got new wheel cylinder(s), drums, a few brake tools, the brake overhaul kit, etc. Already had the passenger and drivers side parking brake cable. Did the passenger side drums and cable. Easier than I thought, just have to go real slow as a noobie. Buttoned ‘er up and went for a ride. Seems to be working perfectly. (Fingers crossed) Hopefully my intermediate cable will be in sometime today so I can do drivers side brakes and cable and get this parking brake fiasco behind me!
 

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Thanks @BikerPepe`, I always had an overhead hoist available to me, or a crane... this is the first time pulling an engine in the grass... well shoot... there goes that... I’ll put the transmission bolts back on tomorrow and tow the thing to the shop and have someone else do the lifting for me.
Well the guy I had scheduled to r&r the engine and transmission bailed on me... his helper is out until the 26th if September and I got pushed back to October 1st. I guess I have to figure out some crazy redneckery to get the engine out and back in.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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You might be able to pull it off with extra hands around. I've honestly never pulled both an engine and tranny connected. I probably wouldn't try... but I did nearly drop that 400 engine on myself trying to pull it out in the dirt, when one of the lift legs rolled off the 4x8 wood sheet I had under it. I'm still not sure how I managed to get away with that one without being smushed. If it were me and I had to get them both out, I'd pull 'em separately but you know I'm a mechanical moron, so take whatever I say with a healthy dose of skepticism.
 

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You might be able to pull it off with extra hands around. I've honestly never pulled both an engine and tranny connected. I probably wouldn't try... but I did nearly drop that 400 engine on myself trying to pull it out in the dirt, when one of the lift legs rolled off the 4x8 wood sheet I had under it. I'm still not sure how I managed to get away with that one without being smushed. If it were me and I had to get them both out, I'd pull 'em separately but you know I'm a mechanical moron, so take whatever I say with a healthy dose of skepticism.
Normally I separate the engine and transmission and pull them separate, which I may still do... it is possible to pull both at once, but I think I would have to remove the front sheet metal completely which I can’t do...

Thanks for the plywood warning, because that is exactly what I’m going to have to do. I have decided to pull the transmission, then the engine... then I will do some work in the engine bay cleaning things up and drop the new engine in...then I plan on starting the transmission swap process.

Quick question...I think I know the answer, but here it goes any ways. Should transmission fluid flow out of the tail hosing of the transmission when the transfer case is removed? I could see maybe a few drops, but I filled two coffee cans.
 

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Installed the fuel pump access cover plate to finally finish up my fuel pump replacement.

Also received the Bassani Y-pipe that ordered. It appears all of the Bronco 'off-road' versions have been discontinued, so I ordered one for a Lightning F150. My plan is to go single 3" behind the 'Y', so it was going to get hacked up anyway... all I wanted was the manifold to merge section.



Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed in the quality... lots of weld wire and ugly crap inside the merge area. Sorry for the out of focus pic, but you can see the MIG wire sticking across the opening...



I'll start a thread when I get the exhaust project going.
 

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21,170 Posts
Today I redirected the TB coolant tube from the rust-clogged line over the radiator to directly into the heater hose.

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Finally got my tailgate window fixed! Yay! Used y'all's idea with the nuts cause the motor was strong, just no movement on the glass... Worked like a charm. Used 3 -1/4" nylock nuts cause they're taller then regular by almost double so didn't need to double stack regular 1/4" nuts. She goes up and down so fast now by key or by dash switch... Soooo happy 😁
Now, just need to get the inside tailgate handle fixed properly. It's on and working...ish... It needs a new rod. The one on it now is bent to shit all the wrong way so it keeps popping out of the hole 😠 it's all good tho cause... The window freakin works
tenor.gif
 

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1991 Ford Bronco, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
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379 Posts
Busted the lower shock mount on the driver side while torquing the shock nut down. I was surprised how easy the bolt sheared off. Took the sawzall to the busted mount bolt and then drilled a new 5/8" hole for the new bolt-on shock mount hardware. I removed the tie rod end to get access to drill the shock mount bolt. Tie rod end wouldn't budge. Took a lot of heat and red ass to break the bitch loose. So, I also ended up installing a new tie rod end. Now I got the Bilstein quad shocks installed on both corners. Check it off the list.
 

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Premium Member
1991 Ford Bronco, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
Joined
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379 Posts
Was tinkering around the engine compartment and brushed up against a shock boot and it literally popped off. This is a new engine build with about 2000 miles on it. Started checking the other plugs and 3 out of 8 where barely hanging on and NOT CONNECTED. Figured I would give it a tune up. Ordered MSD rotor and dizzy cap, Screaming Demon coil, Ford Racing 9mm sparky wires and Autolite copper 24s. Gapped the plugs to .055, installed and changed out the spark plug wires. I will advance the timing later this afternoon once it cools down and I can see the timing mark a little better. Aiming for 13*-14* BTD. Hoping this is why it was running a little sluggish.

P.S. Changing out the driver side plugs was a cinch. The passenger side took an hour. Between that dam thermactor piping and my JBA headers getting to the #3 and #4 plugs is a [email protected]#CH. I couldn't get to the #4 plug without removing the emissions shit and the header. Guess which plug is still original from the build? I noticed my Smog Pump is starting to whine bit so now I am more motivated to dump the smog pump and all that plumbing. SO frustrating.
 
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