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1994 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.8
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My door panels were a bit faded so I gave SEM product a try. Looks pretty good and almost matched perfectly. The original blue is a bit darker than the spray can.
 

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240 Posts
Exhaust on. So much more torque with the headers.

@BigBlue 94 it isn't too loud at all until I'm over 2500 rpm. It's really quiet at cruising speeds and a nice deep rumble. I got those troublesome bolts swapped out with some hex bolts from a different hardware store that wasnt open yesterday. Thanks for putting those on. Hope you enjoy the motor mounts and sound deadening.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Exhaust on. So much more torque with the headers.

@BigBlue 94 it isn't too loud at all until I'm over 2500 rpm. It's really quiet at cruising speeds and a nice deep rumble. I got those troublesome bolts swapped out with some hex bolts from a different hardware store that wasnt open yesterday. Thanks for putting those on. Hope you enjoy the motor mounts and sound deadening.
Awesome! I was still cussing those few bolts. Did you take the grinder to the frame on that passenger side yet?

And dont forget to retorque all the bolts in a few hundred miles.

And im still sore! When i crawled out of the van at home i could feel it haha
 

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825 Posts
Just bought several of these. One for the bronco, the house, and for the kids homes.

 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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1,776 Posts
Loaded up the father-in-law for deer season got a few outdoor pics. Found out that the factory terminal connector for the fuse block (connected at the hot side of the starter relay) is a touch short because it came apart inside the sleeve causing my truck to stall out when hitting washboards. Also had my new NAPA starter relay stick twice. On the way out of the woods this evening pushing about 25-30 mph my damn lights started dimming BAD, got to the highway and hopped out to see what the frack! Weirdest damn thing it acted like the hood hitting the latch was somehow causing a ground issue, I popped it and the lights came back on, I slammed it and they flickered... then I realized I was getting back feeding of 12volts into my chassis because my blinker indicators were partially lighting up?!?! Could the starter relay be back feeding through its housing? It’s got a warranty and my daughter is friends with the GM at NAPA it’s only a couple months old so it’s going back.
Photo shoot of Oregon Coast buck season.
CB72A5CD-E159-4CD8-A213-63F9E0CF7F1C.jpeg
D9F906E1-9130-49C0-859F-FF8237BEB3CD.jpeg
EDBF180D-FBF4-44D7-897D-3DA75EE03431.jpeg

842CCC27-78D6-4CF5-9AB1-7F12CC694592.jpeg

Personally I like the second to the last shot, makes it look beefy!
 

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I've posted about EvapoRust before - but if you haven't used it - DO IT. $14 or so for a gallon at Tractor Supply. It's reusable. Not toxic. You can use cheap plastic tupperware containers to soak parts / hardware - it's plastic safe. It sure as hell beats blasting small pieces / parts and hardware. I posted this in my build thread but wanted to post this here as well

This is the jack mount I pulled from the 96 parts Bronco's RH fender (I'm match painting the fender to install on the 95 EB)

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Here's the hardware it used

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Soaked it for a couple of days (been busy and forgot about it)

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Here it after flipping it over to soak the other side - no cleaning, no scrubbing etc

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Hardware

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Bought some the last time you posted about it. Great stuff. Soaked the thermostat housing and bolts. Came out nice.
 

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The kid has been daily driving the 95 for a while now. Drove it down to OBX with zero issues. I'm guessing over 2K miles on it since it rolled out of the shop. So in between projects I wanted to start working on match painting the RH fender i pulled from the 96 Parts truck. The 95's fender was involved in a fender bender YEARS ago. A quickie insurance job I'm betting. They didn't even pull the fender or liner - just slapped some filler in the dent and painted it. Filler is cracking. No rust - just a small dent in the fender. And since there is also a good size ding right on top of the fender line (narrow edge where it meets the hood) I'm going to use a spare fender.

This is after some degreaser and a bath.

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Cleaned both side off, blew it off with the compressor and let it sat for a day in the shop. Then scuffed the inside of the fender with a Scotchbrite pad, cleaned it again, then used PrepAll and hit it with some SEM high build primer (aerosol).

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I'm going to paint the inside first. The factory finish was just a quick spray over in the base coat (no clear on the inside of the fender) I'm going to base coat and clear it. Since I HATE cleaning spray guns and I'll only get an hour here and there to do this......I'm using spray cans.

A GOOD auto body paint supply store can put the correct matching BASE coat in an aerosol can for you. It's the same base coat a paint shop would use. MILES better than normal spray bomb lacquer or enamel. I'll be using Spraymax Clear coat. It's an actual urethane 2K (2 part) hardened clear coat. UV and chemical resistant. When you are ready to use it you push a button on the bottom of the can, it releases the hardener and you shake it up. Use a respirator - this is the SAME nasty stuff paint shops use from a HVLP gun. You get about 24 hours of pot life after mixing - the stuff hardens up after that.

Get a GOOD epoxy (if you have bare metal spots on what you're painting) or a good sandable primer / filler from the same auto body supply. I like SEM. Again - this is NOT the same primer you get in spray bombs at the local hardware store.

I'll likely try to get a couple coats of base coat on tonight after work - if not I'll try during the day on Thursday. I plan on clear coating the inner fender since it's off and easy to get to. You use the same tech sheets as you would for normal base coat (this is PPG - so 15-20 minutes (more when colder) flash time between coats of base coat. 45min to an hour and you can safely tape on it. 24 recoat window (before you need to sand / prepare the surface).

Here's the results using this process on a rear bumper cover I did a couple of years ago.

After an idiot backed into me



After some sanding and filler



This is after sanding the messed up spots on the bumper cover. Scuffed the entire cover with a Scothbrite pad (red), primed it. Hit it with 3-4 coats of the OEM base coat (silver metallic) and 3 coats of the Spray max clear coat. Here's the result:



The picture makes it look different - that's actually sun reflection. You could not tell the difference between the original paint and the repaired bumper cover.

 

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Not yet. My back was killing me so I called it quits then I spent the entire day at that muffler shop getting that worked up. I will this weekend. I forgot and heard it hit the frame when I stepped on it and I started cussing.
Took her wheeling in the ozark national forest
How's the clearance on the trails? I have a placement princess and don't want trail rash?
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.8, C6, True Trac diffs, 4.56 gears, 4" C&T lift, 130A 3G Alt, 35" Grabber AT2s
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Got a bath, shoes rotated around, and pressure checked. Ready for our trip to Illinois tomorrow.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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287 Posts
Not yet. My back was killing me so I called it quits then I spent the entire day at that muffler shop getting that worked up. I will this weekend. I forgot and heard it hit the frame when I stepped on it and I started cussing.

How's the clearance on the trails? I have a placement princess and don't want trail rash?
Well, you know what they say. A full size rubs both sides and that is super accurate. I have scratch marks down both sides and I smashed one of my bully steps on a boulder. These rigs are so capable out of the box it is absolutely ridiculous. When I get a better chance I will post up more pictures and videos.
 

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Well, you know what they say. A full size rubs both sides and that is super accurate. I have scratch marks down both sides and I smashed one of my bully steps on a boulder. These rigs are so capable out of the box it is absolutely ridiculous. When I get a better chance I will post up more pictures and videos.
Gotcha. I need a break from kc so I was going to make that trip and go off roading. I need a wrangler or something. I just had the entire back half painted so I don't want trail rash.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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287 Posts
Gotcha. I need a break from kc so I was going to make that trip and go off roading. I need a wrangler or something. I just had the entire back half painted so I don't want trail rash.
There are trails mild to wild and I have been going wild lol. There is a beautiful 96 forest service bronco for sale down here too
20201005_175849.jpg
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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287 Posts
5k my buddy in the pic may buy it before we leave though. It's a 5.0 mass air and it is a clean unit
 
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