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1996 Bronco XLT 5.8L
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220 Posts
Picked up a new (to me) tailgate this weekend and got to put some real miles on the fresh rebuilt trans and seals/gaakets. She's running well. And tailgate was from matching year, model and color, so my OCD is happy.

Cyberslinger - 1996 XLT Sport 5.8L
 

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This weekend - got the crappy radiator replaced. Bonus - previous "mechanic" or owner of course installed the cheap smaller radiator and it wouldn't match up to either radiator shroud I had. Bought the upgraded radiator and the shroud matches up now LOL

164310


Got the new y pipe and starter in.

164311


Upper intake installed - getting close to finally firing this thing up

164312
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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1,069 Posts
Took mine out for a cruise with my 10yr old and had a great time. Detailed her out a bit and added some Lucas to the gas tank and some oil additive to the engine just because. One thing I’m going to need your wisdom on......

My rear window has always worked off and on. The key switch and dash switch however both work perfect when it’s operating. This morning I took her out to clean and tried to open the rear glass with the key and it just spun and spun. Never “caught” and rolled the window down. Turned the key to acc and used the dash switch and it worked perfectly. Drove it around today with the rear window half down and down. Made numerous stops at which I rolled it up and went in to a couple of stores. A buddy comes by a little while ago and wanted to see it since I’ve done all the work. I roll the window down, show him the truck and then trying to roll it up, it goes up about 2” and stops. And will. Not. Budge. What now?? I’m sick of this thing working only 60% of the time. How do I drop it to open the tailgate. What all parts should I check/and/or replace?? It never ends lol. On a bright note, she drove great and is bone dry underneath!


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If it went up 2", you should still be able to drop the tailgate. It sounds like the switch in the gate is either bad or loose and maybe it pulled a wire off. The whole window Wiring thing is more simple than intelligent. That may describe the spinning. That's where I would start.
 

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Registered
1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
Joined
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1,069 Posts
Took mine out for a cruise with my 10yr old and had a great time. Detailed her out a bit and added some Lucas to the gas tank and some oil additive to the engine just because. One thing I’m going to need your wisdom on......

My rear window has always worked off and on. The key switch and dash switch however both work perfect when it’s operating. This morning I took her out to clean and tried to open the rear glass with the key and it just spun and spun. Never “caught” and rolled the window down. Turned the key to acc and used the dash switch and it worked perfectly. Drove it around today with the rear window half down and down. Made numerous stops at which I rolled it up and went in to a couple of stores. A buddy comes by a little while ago and wanted to see it since I’ve done all the work. I roll the window down, show him the truck and then trying to roll it up, it goes up about 2” and stops. And will. Not. Budge. What now?? I’m sick of this thing working only 60% of the time. How do I drop it to open the tailgate. What all parts should I check/and/or replace?? It never ends lol. On a bright note, she drove great and is bone dry underneath!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If it went up 2", you should still be able to drop the tailgate. It sounds like the switch in the gate is either bad or loose and maybe it pulled a wire off. The whole window Wiring thing is more simple than intelligent. That may describe the spinning. That's where I would start
 

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About a week ago, when I was starting on my 'Doggie Deck', I went to open the tailgate and the handle broke. Upon examination, the linkage rod had oblonged the hole, and eventually the retaining clip and spring broke and the whole thing pulled apart. I didn't have time to deal with it right then, so I pulled the access panel and have been pulling on the rod to open the tailgate for a week.

After researching alternatives, I bit the bullet and bought a NOS Ford handle off eBay.



The old handle had been marginal for a while, and you can see the condition of the rod compared to the new one...



While I had things apart, I removed the operating arm for the 'window down' safety. The linkage rod had been removed long ago, but I never removed the arm. While I had it out, I cleaned everything up and shot some grease into the pivot point.



Got everything re-installed and it's working great.



I also noticed that the striker bushings were gone, so I dug through my pile and came up with a couple and installed them and adjusted the strikers. Tailgate was nice and tight again... but the window wouldn't go up. After some fiddling, I determined the striker bushing was too large a diameter to allow the latch to close to the point where it closed the connection on the safety switch. They were door striker bushings, so I just pulled the driver's side bushing and the window works again. I ordered the proper part number... I'm hoping they're a slightly smaller diameter. If not, I may have to find a way to turn one down.... or I may just make one out of delrin stock.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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1990 EB, 5.0
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386 Posts

Also installed sound deadener on the roof and installed headliner. The wife helped on this and it was MUCH appreciated.


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Dang that looks nice!
 
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1990 EB, 5.0
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386 Posts
Finally fixed my starting issue. The relay was the culprit. Upgraded to pgmr starter as well. Busted some b puller rust. Sprayed underside with rust reformer then undercoating.
 
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1991Bronco 5.8L, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift/SuperRunner, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
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558 Posts
Installed my center console and tracked down some electrical shorts. Scraped the hell out of the gloss paint on the console getting it installed. This thing is heavy, especially with the woofer installed. Sounds much better than it looks. I will get it vinyl wrapped, upholstered or rhino lined later, something more durable to wear. The photo is picking up a lot of dust which makes the finish look even shittier. The Bronco needs a bath for sure and new seats. View attachment 164339 View attachment 164340
 

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93 XLT 347, GT40 Heads, Bassani headers/exhaust, E4OD
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1,610 Posts
Drove to Cabela’s to pickup a new Savage Model 12 Benchrest ($1,600 rifle for $800 NIB - local store scoured the country and found one in Independence, Missouri). Then went and had dinner at a real sit down restaurant with my lovely wife (a first in 5-months!). Great little place out in Manikan-Sabot - good to see them reopen.

Awesome day all around!
 

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Joisey don't smell funny
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1,322 Posts

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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1,069 Posts
Dropped my '78 off at the shop to have the A/C charged. Forecast today here is for 108*.
 

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Able to squeeze some time in the shop this morning. Got the starter wiring run, the fender liner installed, transmission dipstick, throttle body installed, most vacuum lines run. Next up trans cooler lines, accessories and brackets etc. Closer and closer:

164381
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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430 Posts
Like I'm hearing from everyone else, it's been hot here lately. I ordered a carb spacer to get some heat insulation between my motor and carb. Since I was ordering things I had them throw in a vacuum guage and advance timing light too. I recently got my first tank of gas with double digit mpg numbers and I'm hungry for more. I think there's plenty to do with carb tuning since my rig smells like gas often.
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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2,650 Posts
Had my break in and setup done on my 351w. Starts and runs great. [email protected] torque and [email protected] HP. That’s with 15 base and 32 total timing.



Cheers!


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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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1,908 Posts
Broke something....



Backstory:
Driving in 4WD due to no rear driveshaft.
HMMWV tires on factory TTB Dana 44.


Waiting to make a left turn/front tires already turned/oncoming traffic waved me to go/quickly pressed throttle/instant SNAP......

I press throttle again; only rev'ed engine, not moving.


Construction crew helped pull my Bronco home (down the street).


Crawl under:
Front driveshaft appears to be intact.
Tried to turn, felt like it should.

Front axle's left/center-right/and right U-joints 'appears' to be intact.

Start engine/shift into drive/press throttle/ Weeeeeeeee with a fast clicking sound/not moving.

Turn off engine.


My only other nOOB thought is that I snapped the T-case chain.


Thoughts/suggestions/opinions are welcomed.
 
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