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Knocked off my dizzy gear, pulled off the rotor, added a 9/32 bit to the top end of the shaft... made a oil pump primer.
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almost done with my reman install.

This is also how I found out that the oil pump rod was not inserted into the pump first with the retaining clip.. not gonna do all that new pan gasketing, I was able to put the rod in from above, but I’m worried about it falling out of the pump into the pan, I think I’m gonna put some epoxy into my dizzy female end (lol). Good or bad idea?
 

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Once the distributor is in, it is captured and can't come out. Not sure epoxy would be good idea or last.

tim
 
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Nothing fun. Had to change a lower radiator hose in the snow.
 
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I ordered a set of brackets from Solo MS so I can mount a curved 30” single row LED light bar in the grille. It should look something like this...


Let me know how it fits. I was looking at this like a week ago.
 
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Played around with my U150 emblem designs. Hopefully I will actually see about getting progress beyond the design. Last time I had my brother 3d print (my printer was down) the previous style (which was too small, and didn't have the background) I had and it got slightly warped sitting outside. May try spending some extra time at work trying to see if I can machine a set out of some scrap that is laying around hehe

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I did all for the Nookie
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Well it wasn't today but after a 3 year slumber I tossed a battery in and fired the old horse up and took him for a ride around the block. It's gonna need new tires as these are square and dry rotted.

173988
 

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Jumped it again today so its ready to play in the snow tomorrow. I have a draw. Removed amplifier. Still dying. I am thinking alarm/remote starter as Ive read online that could be a problem. Anyone else have a similar problem? Battery is about 2 years old.
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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The fastest way to diagnose this draw is to put a 12 volt test light (or wire a headlight) in series between the negative post and terminal. The draw will illuminate the light, and so you push the door switch to turn off the interior lights. begin pulling the fuses, one at a time, while checking the light at the battery. If it goes out, your draw's in that circuit. But, if pulling them does not turn the light off, then pull the alternator connections, one at a time. After that, if the light doesn't come off, you have a partial short in the underhood wiring.
 
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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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4,161 Posts
Picked up a 2002 GMC Yukon XL third row bench to put in the back of Bonnie Blue (the wife’s rig). The guy sold it cheap because he said that the seat back wouldn’t fold down. I said ok no problem and handed him $30. I got it home and noticed that the floor latches were all open, as if it weren’t attached to the floor. I closed them to simulate it being installed and the seat back folded down just fine. Lol. Score! So I opened up the plastic edging to pull the cable to reopen the latches on each side and now to find some floor brackets at the pick and pull, since the eBay ones are so spendy.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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37,344 Posts
The fastest way to diagnose this draw is to put a 12 volt test light (or wire a headlight) in series between the negative post and terminal. The draw will illuminate the light, and so you push the door switch to turn off the interior lights. begin pulling the fuses, one at a time, while checking the light at the battery. If it goes out, your draw's in that circuit. But, if pulling them does not turn the light off, then pull the alternator connections, one at a time. After that, if the light doesn't come off, you have a partial short in the underhood wiring.
Read this the other day and then watched this this minutes ago and thought... what a cool, new tool.
Don't have one but for the price, sure would be handy to have in the shop with all these old Ford trucks I've got to maintain. He mentions it but I've seen my local power company use the exact same technology to find a break in the underground power supply line that supplies my and my neighbors homes when it broke. Shown in the video at 3:40.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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4,161 Posts
Installed a nice new set of 9mm Ford Racing spark plug wires to link the MSD ignition parts to the Motorcraft copper core plugs. These were cut to fit wires, so I was able to cut them to be the perfect length and not hanging loose all over the engine bay. My heat gun helped make the boots a bit more flexible so I could push the wires through with a little silicone grease.






 

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Found out my headlight switch had a little accident. Explains why my headlights took a second to come on and would occasionally go off for a bit.
Glad you found it when you did. Could have been a big accident!
 

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93 XLT 347, GT40 Heads, Bassani headers/exhaust, E4OD
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Almost time for an oil change.

Engine builder wanted me to use Royal Purple after break-in. No one carries it locally so I've been picking it up from Amazon - currently unobtainium. Uh-ohhh...

Went directly to Royal Purple's web site, ordered 12 qts of oil and 2 filters; cheaper, free shipping, FedEx ground picked it up within 2-hours of ordering and it will be here Saturday. Not bad!
 
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