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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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4,921 Posts
Took it on a camping trip with my boys and @sackman9975. Three hour drive to the national forest in NW Michigan. Good time, until the rain started and didn’t stop lol. My boys left the tent windows open and the entire tent flooded while we were gone for the day. Our camping trip ended early, as my boys weren’t prepared to deal with all that. Oh well.






While we were there, I mentioned to sackman that his third brake light was out. So while I was letting my boys play at the beach, he went to Oreilly to get a bulb and a woman approached him to ask where he buys Bronco parts. After a bit of convo, she asked him if he wanted to buy hers.

“No, but I know someone who might” (me).

So the story is that this woman is in an abusive relationship, and wanted to leave town with all she could carry in her Durango. She needed cash, and couldn’t take her bronco with her. She said she wanted $5k for her bronco, and showed sackman some pics. He then calls me and says we should go look at it. So when he shows up to where me and the boys are, I follow him to this house pretty close to our campsite. It’s a red 96 bronco XLT sport 5.0, and it needs a little work on the outside but man, the interior is MINT!! It needs a fuel pump short fixed (we think it could be a corroded harness plug) and a new battery. The tire swing was removed, but it was included with the sale. The back was full of new Moog steering linkage parts, ball joints, and a new muffler. The running boards are MIA though - too bad.

So…she got 50 crisp $100 bills and I now have a Bronco that I have to go back and pick up in the next couple weeks. It’s currently sitting at sackman’s friend’s house up there. Just today, sackman worked on the tailgate window and got it working good, but the tailgate internals need some work for it to be fully operational. Here she is:



 

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Premium Member
1988 5.0L E/B AOD, bone stock+ 1993 5.8L E/B, E4OD, 4"lift with 33's
Joined
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1,311 Posts
I replaced the window motor drive gear and dogs on my 93 passenger door today. I also replaced both door speakers with 6.5" Kickers. Got tunes again!
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
Joined
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38,075 Posts
So…she got 50 crisp $100 bills and I now have a Bronco that I have to go back and pick up in the next couple weeks. It’s currently sitting at sackman’s friend’s house up there. Just today, sackman worked on the tailgate window and got it working good, but the tailgate internals need some work for it to be fully operational. Here she is:
I hope you got a clean and clear title in hand when you dropped those crisp new bills. Looks like a nice ride. That red is so bright in the pic, I almost asked if it was a photo-chop paintjob the first time you posted it. So now you've got a green and a red Bronco. I guess you're all set for Christmas. ;) Congrats bud. Hope she gives you many miles of big ass smiles. (y)
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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4,921 Posts
I hope you got a clean and clear title in hand when you dropped those crisp new bills. Looks like a nice ride. That red is so bright in the pic, I almost asked if it was a photo-chop paintjob the first time you posted it. So now you've got a green and a red Bronco. I guess you're all set for Christmas. ;) Congrats bud. Hope she gives you many miles of big ass smiles. (y)
Yessir - clean title in hand. (y) I don’t break out the fat roll until I get my greasy fingers on that paper lol.

Can’t wait to get it home and get some quality time with it.
 

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Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
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776 Posts
Charged my AC today after being apart for nearly a year, so far it’s working good


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I did all for the Nookie
Joined
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7,285 Posts
Took the Bronco out for its 1st wheeling trip in like 5yrs. Drove it there and back 207 miles the new tires make all the difference in the way it works. I got over stuff I used to have a problem with, no problem.
184484
184485
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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4,921 Posts
Forgot to mention earlier - when I was on the camping trip this past weekend looking at the new bronco, I needed to use my winch to pull it out a bit so we could load it on the tow truck facing front. I disengaged the cable, dragged it maybe 40’ to the red bronco, hooked it up and nothing. Dead. Wtf??

So we coiled the cable up between the shackles since I couldn’t rewind it onto the reel, and I ended up driving it home that way.

So yesterday, I dove into the problem. Removed the winch from its cradle, removed the solenoid pack, and disconnected the four power and ground cables from the solenoid pack. Both ground cables broke when I removed them, and were corroded to hell and back. The two power cables were corroded too, but not as bad and didn’t break. Luckily, I happened to have four new terminals in the garage I was going to use for new battery terminals. So I broke out the solder, MAP gas, flux, and went to town making new cable terminals. Winch back on and working now.




 

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Man of endless projects
Joined
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9,750 Posts
got my 96 moving under its own power finally yay! only took 21 months. took it for a quick test around the block seems to be working fine. i did do a bit of an oopsy and forgot i didnt weld the leaf perches to the axle nor did i put oil in the diff. so within the first 100 feet, the axle spun and the pinion shot up damaging the driveshaft abit. then found that i forgot to put oil in it so i guess its a good thing it did. in my defense, i was unable to weld where my truck was parked. got the pinion angle fixed and welded and drove it around some. my tires are no longer round and i gotta repair the driveshaft but its moving!

Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Land vehicle Automotive side marker light
 

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Premium Member
1994 Bronco XLT , 5.8 EFI, 6" Lift, 35X12.5 BFGs K3
Joined
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6,820 Posts
Sat and looked at the empty spot where the Bronco would be sitting ,but, it's getting geared and such. Patience, patience, patience.
 

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Registered
96 XLT, 5.8, E4OD, Auto 4x4, Mile Marker, 4in lift with 35's
Joined
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131 Posts
Installed my new dash pad, sun visors, and front license plate bracket. If the rain holds off I'll install my new outer door handles.
 

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Registered
1990 EB, 5.0
Joined
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419 Posts
Fixed a power steering leak that was getting worse. Turned out to be the return line (which is new I might add). Turns out the small clamp that keeps the line connected to the pump was just a little bit loose. This cause the leak that eventually had me filling up the reservoir every 4 days or so.

I also ordered $100 worth of parts to try and convert my AC over to R-134a. I've never had working AC in any bronco that I've owned, just didn't seem natural. But now I'm thinking that it would be a nice feature to have on really hot days.
 
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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
Joined
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1,958 Posts
got my 96 moving under its own power finally yay! only took 21 months. took it for a quick test around the block seems to be working fine. i did do a bit of an oopsy and forgot i didnt weld the leaf perches to the axle nor did i put oil in the diff. so within the first 100 feet, the axle spun and the pinion shot up damaging the driveshaft abit. then found that i forgot to put oil in it so i guess its a good thing it did. in my defense, i was unable to weld where my truck was parked. got the pinion angle fixed and welded and drove it around some. my tires are no longer round and i gotta repair the driveshaft but its moving!

View attachment 184514
Like the exhaust exit! :cool:🍺
 

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Registered
1995 Ford Bronco XLT 5.8L
Joined
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38 Posts
Recently (since mid-June):
  • Front brakes (rotors and pads)
  • Front bearings (inner / outer)
  • Some vacuum hose replacements
  • Fuel filter
  • Starter motor
  • Air filter (laugh, but I switched from a FULLY-clogged caked-on-dust K&N left by the previous owner to just a new one)
  • WD hitch for towing
  • New clips and screws in the driver's side door panel
  • Tightened driver's side mirror's bolt (under the inside panel) so it's not prone to vibration
  • Shampooed the carpets
  • Lubed the front seat sliders
  • New trash bin in back
  • New set of tools, jack, lug wrench, inflator, jumpers, stowed behind internal spare.
  • Lubed door hinges, latches, hood hinges and latch.
  • Replaced one license plate light.
  • Installed Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake controller (for towing)
  • New wiper blades
  • New Fuel Pressure Regulator
  • Headlight lens restoration
  • Oil change to full synthetic
  • Top off the PS pump with full synthetic
  • Recalibrated the PSOM for correct tire size.
  • Fuel injector cleaner
Previous owner (within the past 10k miles):
  • New spark plugs
  • New wires
  • New distributor (not just the cap, the whole thing)
  • New coil
  • Several new sensors
  • 31x10.5r15 tire upsize.
TODO:
  • Keep plugging away at finding this darn vacuum leak. I've had it smoke tested, I've sprayed starter fluid everywhere, watched my gauge as connected to the plenum... just can't find why I lose the vents under moderate throttle (but if I give it enough throttle to cause a downshift, it doesn't happen. Only if I give it enough to work harder in the current gear.)
  • Get an estimte on rust cut-out, removal, repair, and full repaint. Areas of concern are the rear fenders, the bottom corner of the door frames, and the (rust free but concerning) seam at the roof / windshield posts.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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4,921 Posts
@davido check your vacuum canister for leaks - remove and inspect underneath it. Vacuum holds the dash vents on - when you accelerate and manifold vacuum decreases, the canister is your vacuum reserve so that your dash vents can continue to function. Defrost vent is the default when vacuum is lost/decreases.
 

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Premium Member
93 XLT 347, GT40 Heads, Bassani headers/exhaust, E4OD
Joined
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1,730 Posts
@davido check your vacuum canister for leaks - remove and inspect underneath it. Vacuum holds the dash vents on - when you accelerate and manifold vacuum decreases, the canister is your vacuum reserve so that your dash vents can continue to function. Defrost vent is the default when vacuum is lost/decreases.
+1. New canister solved my vent control problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
Joined
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1,958 Posts
@davido check your vacuum canister for leaks - remove and inspect underneath it. Vacuum holds the dash vents on - when you accelerate and manifold vacuum decreases, the canister is your vacuum reserve so that your dash vents can continue to function. Defrost vent is the default when vacuum is lost/decreases.
The 'baked beans' can(ister)?
 

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Man of endless projects
Joined
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9,750 Posts
Like the exhaust exit! :cool:🍺
i honestly dont like it but i didnt have nealry enough fittings to go out the back over the axle. i may change it (for liek the 5th time now) but its acceptable for now.

its true dual 2.5" with long tube headers and most of the exhaust is tucked up for ground clearence which made series of problems. had to cross the driver side over to the passenger side infront of the trans crossmember. in rode rto keep it nearly equal length, i crossed the passenger side over the rear driveshaft to the passenger side. this at least gives some length to the exhaust so it isnt too short. i dont have alot of room for mufflers so i put some knockoff Series 10 mufflers right as it exits the side. that was too loud so i added some cat converters inline cause thats all i had room for. i didnt like the exhaust blowing on my knees when i get into the truck so i hadded some turndowns but they are kinda ugly and might get changed. i spraysed some HVT ceramic paint on all the exhaust so it might help keep the floor from being too hot, the headers are ceramic coated from manufacture. i added some V-bands so i can remove my exhaust in sections if needed
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
Joined
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1,958 Posts
i honestly dont like it but i didnt have nealry enough fittings to go out the back over the axle. i may change it (for liek the 5th time now) but its acceptable for now.

its true dual 2.5" with long tube headers and most of the exhaust is tucked up for ground clearence which made series of problems. had to cross the driver side over to the passenger side infront of the trans crossmember. in rode rto keep it nearly equal length, i crossed the passenger side over the rear driveshaft to the passenger side. this at least gives some length to the exhaust so it isnt too short. i dont have alot of room for mufflers so i put some knockoff Series 10 mufflers right as it exits the side. that was too loud so i added some cat converters inline cause thats all i had room for. i didnt like the exhaust blowing on my knees when i get into the truck so i hadded some turndowns but they are kinda ugly and might get changed. i spraysed some HVT ceramic paint on all the exhaust so it might help keep the floor from being too hot, the headers are ceramic coated from manufacture. i added some V-bands so i can remove my exhaust in sections if needed
I still have factory exhaust system.


I just want to cut off/delete at the front of the trashcan-sized muffler/all the way back.

And replace with a small muffler and have it exit similar to yours.
 
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