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Premium Member
1994 Bronco XLT , 5.8 EFI, 6" Lift, 35X12.5 BFGs K3
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6,836 Posts
Next on the list of fixes were my door panels. The switch brackets on both sides were jacked, so the modules flopped around a lot.

Got some goodies from CP Addicts to fix the problem. Weren't too difficult to install. Re-installing the door panels today , so hopefully all is good.

Bumper Door Automotive exterior Gas Rectangle
Outerwear Product Sleeve Grey Bag


Here's the website if anyone's interested. They have some other parts for Broncos as well.

 

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Premium Member
1991Bronco 5.8L, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift/SuperRunner, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
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678 Posts
Started on these since they have been sitting in a box for about a year. Girlfriend is tired of seeing boxes of parts so trying to get as many projects done while it is cool.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood
 

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Registered
1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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164 Posts

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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5,110 Posts
Picked up a set of brake calipers today from @sackman9975 since the bleeders on the old ones were not budging and got rounded off with a line wrench. Bled the brakes and took it for it’s first official test drive.

Results:
1. Steering gear is toast. I need to do a bit more diagnosis here, but if the gear isn’t toast, the rag joint is half gone lol!
2. Transmission is limping - slamming into 2nd at 4K RPM and similar going into third.
3. Tires are old and out of balance - I have tires in the garage waiting to go on.
4. Engine is running ok - not great, low on power, but it’s been sitting for quite some time so it needs “blowing out” and I’m also used to the Warden’s power plant lol. May do a seafoam treatment.

Will likely be ordering a steering gear and power steering pressure line. I have a spare cooling line in my garage to replace the rusty on on here. The stock pump is fine for now. It makes a slight noise when turning but not when idling or driving straight.




And the finale…. (Yikes)

 

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They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
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4,779 Posts
Sprayed PB on u-bolts for rear axle removal. First snow is tomorrow and that signals time to get the axles inside the garage.
Might go back out and position jack stands tonight...might say screw it a drink some Jack D or Jim B.
 
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Premium Member
1991Bronco 5.8L, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift/SuperRunner, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
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678 Posts
Got my Coverlay in for my dash console build. Fit like an Isotoner.
Hood Motor vehicle Car Automotive tire Automotive design
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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5,110 Posts
So on the Red Bronco, it’s slamming through the gears. I pulled codes and got a P500 for the VSS. I tested it and it came back with 1900 ohms, when it should be 170-270. I have a spare, so I went to swap it. It broke into two pieces, leaving a piece stuck in the housing, of course. So I figure I’ll try and pop it out from the inside - I needed to change the gear oil anyway. I drain the diff, and the freaking cover has a rust hole on the mating surface. So I run over to a friend’s shop to get a used replacement. And here comes the rain. Always something.





 

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Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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1,130 Posts
Ordered my bedliner kit for my top...i guess Monstaliner is never going to get the stuff they need to get back going, so I went with Custom Coat Desert Tan...im tired of the top sitting in my way...
I also ordered a new tailgate seal as my old one has gotten crispy.

I also fiddled with my tailgate some more, trying to get it all put back together so I can move onto the next thing.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,110 Posts
Popped out the broken VSS from the inside with a long screwdriver, refilled diff with 75/90 oil with friction modifier, and installed the new-used diff cover with a coat of black paint over the wire-wheeled, but rust-pitted, surface. *shrug



 

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Registered
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5,007 Posts
My ’96 could have killed me today.

On Tuesday and Fridays, a friend and I go have drinks (and sometimes dinner) at a local watering hole. My route to the bar requires me to turn left across 4-5 lanes of traffic (two lanes north, a left turn lane, and two lanes south as the bar is on the right). At 4:30 today, even though it was rush hour, there wasn’t a lot of traffic so when I turned left, I didn’t have to floor it.

On Tuesday, when I went out, I kinda noticed that when I got across all the lanes, that the gas pedal didn’t return as quick as usual, but it was hardly noticeable, just seemed a little slow to return. I pretty much forgot about it until today.

So today I pulled out and once again the pedal seemed to stick a little, not a lot, and by time I got to the next light, the machine was idling OK, not fast, and I proceeded to get to the bar and parked. My drinking buddy was not there yet. I shut the truck off and then I thought I’d check the pedal. I opened up the door and pressed the pedal to the floor, and it stayed there! I got out and tried to manually push the cable back into the housing (the pedal was firmly on the floor), the cable wouldn’t move. I popped the hood and reached around under the throttle cable shield and the throttle popped closed. As the cover was on it (and all my tools are at home) all I could do was move the throttle arm a little and then from inside move the pedal a little.

After dinner and a few beers, I managed to get it back home. I asked my friend to follow me in case the throttle stuck (ala Toyota’s of years ago) and I didn’t go over about 35. (It’s about a mile from my house to the bar.)

Disaster avoided (twice).

Pisses me off that it picked now to fail rather than any of the nice sunny days last summer (it’s supposed to snow here on Sunday). Next week Monday and Tuesday it’s supposed to be a balmy 41°, I’ll just curse at it all weekend. The rust free ’94 may get to see a little of Michigan winter, although I really hate to do that.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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38,379 Posts
From the guy who had his throttle cable stick unexpectedly and without warning while hauling a trailer down a freshly snow covered, slick road... nice job. Some days you're the windshield... some days you're the bug.
 

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Registered
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670 Posts
Not today, but over the last couple of weeks: Replaced the right-side ball joints (left are tight), replaced the front-axle wheel bearings, replaced the front rotors and brake pads, replaced the rear brake shoes, replaced the radius arm bushings, and replaced the front axle pivot bushings on our 1981 Bronco. Oh, also replaced the rear window rubber seal in the fiberglass topper. Still need to replace the rubber tailgate seal.... sometime soon.

The front end is much tighter now..... feels good going down the road. Next week I will have the alignment checked/adjusted.
 

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Premium Member
1991Bronco 5.8L, w/95frontclip, 6"Superlift/SuperRunner, Deaver J40 springs, 35x12.5 K&N, 3"Bassani
Joined
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678 Posts
Worked on the dash console a little more today. Trying to think through ho two run the wiring without cutting holes in the dash.
Also working in a center channel spark into the dash console mainly so I can hear GPS voice instructions clearer and wireless phone calls.
I'm going to mount on the back of the unit and reflect it off the windshield back into the cabin. Started the lower console today for the switches, cup holders and amp rack.
Still working through the design. I'll share photos tomorrow night.
 
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Man of endless projects
Joined
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9,875 Posts
Saturday i installed a Borgeson steering shaft and adjusted the gearbox preload some in my 96 to remove some steering slop. helped some but i think i need a new gearbox still. i have a 4-bolt gearbox swapped in now so i might get a Redhead rebuild.

Sunday i did some wiring on it. added a 4-post power block to clean up all the connections (winch, alternator, starter, vehicle power, amplifiers, headlight relay kit, starter relay) and ran a 2ga cable from it to the battery. then i ran a new 4ga cable from the battery to the power distribution box to replace the stock 6ga cable which was struggling to power the truck with the addition of my efans. and just for the heck of it i made a new cable for my starter. i still need to do a better ground post but that should be alot easier, also plan on doing this to my F250 and 88 bronco in future

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Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire Steering wheel Automotive exterior


after
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive design
 

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Registered
1996 Ford Bronco XL
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1,111 Posts
Saturday i installed a Borgeson steering shaft and adjusted the gearbox preload some in my 96 to remove some steering slop. helped some but i think i need a new gearbox still. i have a 4-bolt gearbox swapped in now so i might get a Redhead rebuild.

Sunday i did some wiring on it. added a 4-post power block to clean up all the connections (winch, alternator, starter, vehicle power, amplifiers, headlight relay kit, starter relay) and ran a 2ga cable from it to the battery. then i ran a new 4ga cable from the battery to the power distribution box to replace the stock 6ga cable which was struggling to power the truck with the addition of my efans. and just for the heck of it i made a new cable for my starter. i still need to do a better ground post but that should be alot easier, also plan on doing this to my F250 and 88 bronco in future

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View attachment 187755

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View attachment 187756
How hard is it to remove the steering gearbox and steering shaft? My truck is at my dads and he is doing that swap for me tomorrow. He's doing a redhead box and the 981 borgeson shaft. Just trying to figure out what he's in for.
 

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Man of endless projects
Joined
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9,875 Posts
How hard is it to remove the steering gearbox and steering shaft? My truck is at my dads and he is doing that swap for me tomorrow. He's doing a redhead box and the 981 borgeson shaft. Just trying to figure out what he's in for.
my degree of 'hard' is going to be different than his degree of 'hard'. i have done many gearboxes and a few Borgeson shafts.

if the gearbox and pitman arm are original, you might have auto part store order in a replacement pitman arm just in case. ive had some come off no problem, ive had some practically welded to the splines and break 3 pullers. the nut for the pitman arm is large and most people dont have that size, i think its like a 1-5/16 or something, i normally use a large wrench because you cant alweays get a socket in there. or you can disconnect the tie rod. the PS lines can sometimes be a pain and problematic so might have new hoses jsut incase. doing the gearbox by himself can be a real pain to do but is doable. its big and heavy to do 1 handed while trying to get the bolts in

the shaft isnt soo bad. would get the right size allen key socket for the set screws. will need to cut the shaft unless you have a body lift. i cut about 3" off the gearbox side because i was too lazy to cut the column side and drill a new hole for the setscrew. i would do a quick paint because the shaft will rust otherwise. getting the old shaft out will probably need some prying to get it off, jsut make sure the bolts are completly out because they key in. its not too hard to do but people dont expect to have to cut them
 
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