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Premium Member
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 mostly stock
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1,828 Posts
It’s really not that difficult aside from one of the screws that is really a pain to get to and if you don’t have an air ratchet or a battery powered ratchet (I have a Milwaukee m12 ratchet) you won’t get it off without removing the fender.

There’s two screws on the inside, two studs under the hood and two screws under the hood so 6 in total that have to be removed. You of course also have to unhook all the wires and hoses.

5 of those fasteners are easily accessible but that one on the bottom nearest the fender on the passenger side I had to lay down on the floor of my shop with my legs toward the rear, take my m12 ratchet and reach way up in behind the wheel well and just feel around for the bolt head and do my best to slip the socket on it. Took me a few tries but I finally got it.

Just be careful putting those back on as you can easily strip out the metal clip that the screws go into.

Also, you can remove the evaporator without pulling the whole box, there’s a panel that splits off you can do that under the hood. I just had so much crap I wanted to make sure I got all
Of it.

It was quite packed, top and bottom.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
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563 Posts
Rushed to get it looking like a vehicle again. Apparently the township wanted to dole out a threat to fine me.

Went from this on thursday:
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Plant


To this this morning on sunday:
Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Car Land vehicle
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread

Tire Vehicle Plant Automotive tire Hood

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Vehicle Car

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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96 XLT, 5.8, E4OD, Auto 4x4, Mile Marker, 4in lift with 35's
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193 Posts

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Registered
‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF——‘95 F150 XL 4.9 M5OD 4x4, SD
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443 Posts
I like the bumper but not crazy about the plastic skirt. Feel like it may look better trimmed up a bit or just deleted period. Just IMHO. Regardless that work is quite an accomplishment for a day and a half. Impressive.
 

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563 Posts
I the the bumper on its so needs a little modification, definitely taking off the valance.

It's a 2020 Superduty bumper, got the brackets from CP (will link later) but had to put a temporary 2" space in until I can cut the factory bumper bracket to clear frame horns.
 

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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF——‘95 F150 XL 4.9 M5OD 4x4, SD
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443 Posts
I bet it will look pretty good when you take the valence off and swap the LP holder for a nice winch. . Whole lotta shiny goin on though lol if it was mine I’d be startin to get nervous
 

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Premium Member
78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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3,946 Posts
Put my JY tow hooks on. I don't love how they look but they were cheap and should be effective.


I remember seeing you mention the hooks in the junk yard thread, but I don't remember what they came off of. Did you have to drill holes/modify existing holes to get them to mount up?
 

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1990 EB, 5.0
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653 Posts
Replaced both my door lock actuators. Got power locks again! Theives beware, it's locked now.
 

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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF——‘95 F150 XL 4.9 M5OD 4x4, SD
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443 Posts
Addressing my speedo wobble today, bypassed the ABS system which has some issues, and just pulled the tone ring out of the diff to check and replace. Sure nuff gonna have to replace it. I checked my local oreileys website before opening it up to make sure they had one in stock and I thought they did but I gotta wait till the morning for it to come from TN. Oh well.. guess I’ll cut some grass while I wait. Praying this will help my transmission act better too.

Tire Wheel Plant Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel rim

Finger Scaled reptile Reptile Nail Grass

Wood Bicycle tire Grass Automotive tire Bicycle part
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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38,695 Posts
Picked up Dad's '78 today with a fresh new Edelb intake and 1406 carb, from his old oem 2 barrel setup. Apparently Edelbrock made a significant change to the amount of alum on that intake. Really hoping it won't pickup the same vapor-lock issue I've been having with the lil' ladies '78 with the same setup. Runs awesome when it's cool out but the problems really kick in when the temps near 100 deg. outside. Fingers crossed. If Dad doesn't suffer the same issue, I may end up doing it to the lil' woman's too. Hate to replace a part but problems are problems... design flaw or whatev.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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554 Posts
Picked up Dad's '78 today with a fresh new Edelb intake and 1406 carb, from his old oem 2 barrel setup. Apparently Edelbrock made a significant change to the amount of alum on that intake. Really hoping it won't pickup the same vapor-lock issue I've been having with the lil' ladies '78 with the same setup. Runs awesome when it's cool out but the problems really kick in when the temps near 100 deg. outside. Fingers crossed. If Dad doesn't suffer the same issue, I may end up doing it to the lil' woman's too. Hate to replace a part but problems are problems... design flaw or whatev.
Interesting. I've got the same setup and also have problems in the heat. Anything mid 90s or higher and I can't let it sit if I've been driving. It won't restart and it will die if idling in traffic too long.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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554 Posts
I remember seeing you mention the hooks in the junk yard thread, but I don't remember what they came off of. Did you have to drill holes/modify existing holes to get them to mount up?
They are off of an expedition. I had to drill one hole for each side. I used an existing hole for the front bolt.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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38,695 Posts
Interesting. I've got the same setup and also have problems in the heat. Anything mid 90s or higher and I can't let it sit if I've been driving. It won't restart and it will die if idling in traffic too long.
Sounds identical to ours. My wrench buddy in town is an "old Ford Trucks" nut running his own successful auto repair shop; "Rollin' On Auto". When he explained that the issue is the aluminum intake soaking in heat from the hot running M steel blocks (path of least resistance for heat dissipation that transfers too much heat to the carb), it rang true to my experience and made a lot more sense than my only other previous stab in the dark... rubber vs. metal fuel line. I swapped out the rubber line from the pump to the carb and routed it to avoid touching the block like the rubber line did but never got to test it out in the heat. He said the new intake was so much lighter than he'd experienced before, he checked it over and noticed a lot less alum/weight. He thinks they may have made the change to address that fairly common issue. Unfortunately, it will be a few months before we'll see if it actually works for Dad this summer but I've got high hopes.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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554 Posts
One thing that I think helped a bit is a phenolic carb spacer. I think it raised my problem temperature by a few degrees. Like you I've tried messing with the fuel l line insulating it with no real difference.

One thing that may help is to run a fuel regulator that bypasses back to the tank to keep the fuel cooler and circulating. That may need an electric pump to move enough fuel though. But if the problem is truly just in the carb it may not help much.
 

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Premium Member
78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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3,946 Posts
I'd be willing to bet they were trying to save money vs fixing an issue when they lightened the intake, if that's indeed what they did.

I was also going to suggest a spacer to see if that would help.

I had a Performer 400 on my 351m before I engine swapped. I didn't have any heat soak issues with it though. No idea how old it was since a PO put it on.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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38,695 Posts
Yea... wrench but said the same. He's tried the spacers and they help some but not a complete fix, I guess. Still might be worth a shot though. He also mentioned moving things around to a higher idle speed to increase the air from the fan but the same issue grows equally with the higher revs, so it's a pickle.
I gotta agree with doose that it's more likely a money saving change than a performance improvement move but a guy can hope. :rolleyes:

Hate that I convinced Dad to blow 1k on these upgrades if they just cause other issues but I couldn't find a motorcraft 2 barrel to save my life and I love the performance of this setup when the weather is good and the edelb 1406 is such an easy carb to rebuild, when needed.

The struggle is real. 🍻 🤪
 

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2,945 Posts
Got the tailgate Latch replaced and Lubed up the rear window Regulator. Also Fixed the Dash by installing the Desolate Motorsports repair bracket on the Passenger side.
Anyone know what size the screws are that go in the top part of the dash to secure the dash up by the defrost vents? Mine are missing so i need to get them replaced.

Next on the list is:
figuring out the wipers. noticed while fixing the dash that the Wiper Control Module is missing completely. Taht would explain one reason they dont work. 😂
Replacing the lower Shock Bushings
Removing the sway bars
Find and install a fan shroud
And most importantly address an issue with the cylinder head on the Passenger side. Previous owner installed headers and when they did they snapped off an exhaust bolt. They drilled it out a size bigger and when they did drilled into the water jacket. They tried to put gasket sealer on the bolt when they put it in but obviously that didnt work so now it leaks down after sitting for a day or two. If i cant get it to seal ive got a brand new set of reman E7TE Heads to put on it but i would rather not have to tear it down that far.
 
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