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Installed a new powersteering box...the factory one was shot, tons a play in the steering wheel...

Bought a NAPA unit with a lifetime warranty..talk about a heavy fawker...got the new one installed and then one of the lines was leaking at the fitting..:rofl: pissed about a quart of powersteering fluid on my driveway...

fixed the line, bled the system and I'm back in business..
 

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Man of endless projects
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9,061 Posts
got my 5-lug Sterling swap almost done. just need a driveshaft made. also replaced the master cylinder for one that works better with rear disc brakes and replaced the front calipers cause the bleeder screws broke off.

bench bleed the MC and bleed the brakes best I could but still feels like some air in lines. gonna take it to a brake shop to power bleed them. also might need to adjust the booster pushrod
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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10,512 Posts
Don't do that yet. If you have someone to help, actually start at the MC, and pump up, then crack each line. Repeat until no more air, then hit each wheel. Don't know if you did before, but there is a specific order you bleed the system: RR, LR, RF LF. And don't forget one last thing: if you now have 4-wheel disc brakes, by their nature they feel softer than front disc/rear drum. It's what happens when you test drive the rig that tells you if it needs more bleeding; just go slow when you're on the road.
 

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Man of endless projects
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9,061 Posts
Don't do that yet. If you have someone to help, actually start at the MC, and pump up, then crack each line. Repeat until no more air, then hit each wheel. Don't know if you did before, but there is a specific order you bleed the system: RR, LR, RF LF. And don't forget one last thing: if you now have 4-wheel disc brakes, by their nature they feel softer than front disc/rear drum. It's what happens when you test drive the rig that tells you if it needs more bleeding; just go slow when you're on the road.
ya I know how to bleed brakes start at the furthest then work way forward. but im by myself so I gravity bleed them. I usually have very good luck gravity bleeding them. im going to try again today and see. ive heard of problems with air bubbles getting trapped in the 4wabs on some vehicles and having to pressure bleed them.
 

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Put on my new shocks and rear sway bar links. Just dropped it off at the alignment shop. I'm not sure they 100% know what they're doing, but they're the closest shop and I didn't feel like driving it 20 miles for a different place with the amount of positive toe I had after the lift. Really hoping to have it ready to take to the lake tomorrow for Easter weekend.
 

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Just dropped it off at the alignment shop. I'm not sure they 100% know what they're doing,
Yep, just as soon as I wrote this they called me back saying they couldn't and wouldn't do it even when I tried to talk them through the steps. Asked them to take a set of readings now so I can make a good enough adjustment to drive it into town.
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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10,512 Posts
ya I know how to bleed brakes start at the furthest then work way forward. but im by myself so I gravity bleed them. I usually have very good luck gravity bleeding them. im going to try again today and see. ive heard of problems with air bubbles getting trapped in the 4wabs on some vehicles and having to pressure bleed them.
OK, I didn't know, but my suggestion was predicated on having a second person. Anyway, I've always been taught on an MC replacement to go through the first part of what I wrote to eliminate air at the unions in the MC, then go ahead and bleed the wheels. And if you do have 4WABS, you need a scan tool with ABS capability to run through the 4WABS bleed procedure by cycling the unit, which pushes the air out toward the wheels.
 

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Just dropped it off at the alignment shop. I'm not sure they 100% know what they're doing,
Yep, just as soon as I wrote this they called me back saying they couldn't and wouldn't do it even when I tried to talk them through the steps. Asked them to take a set of readings now so I can make a good enough adjustment to drive it into town.
Drove 10 miles farther to another shop. This guy actually sounded like he'd done a TTB a before. I even got him to walk me out in his shop and show me what equipment he uses and explain how the MOOG adjustable bushings work. Only bad thing is I won't be able to pick it up until next Thursday because of Easter and work travel. I've been missing having Big Sam on the road.
 

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Replaced the coil and bumped the timing from 10 to 12*. MAN... quite the difference for 30min of work! Engine used to have to "spool up" before I'd get rolling on 33's, now it just GOES.

Also adjusted the steering box for the 3rd time. Redhead is going in this summer.
 

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Couldn't find a shift lever with an o.d. button locally, so after researching a little, figured I'd gamble $10 on an expedition shifter from a junkyard. My only questions were the e4od/4r100 difference, and the bend of the shifter itself. Turns out it plugs right in. The different bend makes it almost rub the trim on the instrument bezel when in drive, and it's slightly shorter...but I actually like the feel better...and o.d. works...:thumbup (old one on top)
IMG_20150402_135125784_resized_by_AVG_Image_Shrinker.jpg
 

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I pressure-washed the '93EB again, then dropped the aux.bat. from the '83 in preparation to pull the t-case, but I got rained out.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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pulled the blown door speaker to measure for replacement. had to double check after reading around the forum. OEM is 6 1/4", not the 6 1/2" I've read time and again on the forum... apparently folks aren't that worried about a proper fit or simple replacement without mucking up the door some. :shrug

swapped out the wipers too. :thumbup
 

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pulled the blown door speaker to measure for replacement. had to double check after reading around the forum. OEM is 6 1/4", not the 6 1/2" I've read time and again on the forum... apparently folks aren't that worried about a proper fit or simple replacement without mucking up the door some. :shrug

swapped out the wipers too. :thumbup
I just installed brand new 6 1/2" speakers and they fit perfect and used the same holes as the old speakers. No manipulation of the door was needed at all.
 

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The joys of speaker company's measurment l. Some measure basket, other outer cone.... My type r alpines 6.5 fit fine.
Fabbed up my battery tray as im about done with the shit plastic tray that the previous owner used. Some good bouncing around would have my battery torn out of the tray lol
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I just installed brand new 6 1/2" speakers and they fit perfect and used the same holes as the old speakers. No manipulation of the door was needed at all.
In your '79? I'm working with my '90 and the OEM speaker measures 6 1/4" from outer edge to outer edge. I have an old set of 6 1/2" in the garage and tried to slap 'em in... but they weren't sitting into the depression hole made for 'em at all. :shrug
 

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In your '79? I'm working with my '90 and the OEM speaker measures 6 1/4" from outer edge to outer edge. I have an old set of 6 1/2" in the garage and tried to slap 'em in... but they weren't sitting into the depression hole made for 'em at all. :shrug
Crutchfield lets you shop by vehicle year/make/model, so the speakers you get fit without cutting plus they give you the wire adapters so there is no cutting/splicing.
Everything I got from them for my 95 fit perfect
 
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