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OEM PARTS KITS MOD IAC

FOUND THE ISSUE ITS THE IAC..... This whole truck is rebuilt new... so was puzzled

IAC is ford Achilles heal,,,it gets contamination easily then it sticks and starves the engine of proper oxygen...

Ford put out a fix on later models to address this.. iTS A METAL PLATE that fits between the IAC and the throttle body right side.
it has two adjustment screws and acts as an air bypass to prevent this sticking. I am ordering one from ebay about 60$

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0r3nCwZsS3M
Just received OEM parts kit to mod/fix IAC Idle issues 1987 XLT 5.0 pics below p/n and contents



 

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Resident Nice Guy
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Finalized my guage install, short of hiding loose wires.
Gorgeous job!

Can I ask roughly what one could expect to spend on those gauges and related senders needed to perform such a swap?
 

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Addicted to Junk
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Gorgeous job!

Can I ask roughly what one could expect to spend on those gauges and related senders needed to perform such a swap?
Thank you!

I have a full writeup in the technical writeup section, if anyone is interested and hasn't seen it.

If you opt for the mechanical or electric speedometer instead of the GPS Speedo, it'll save you about $150. I'd say about $1100 is what I have in the gauges. Though most were insurance replacements for ones I had ready to go in my 96 psd when our shop burnt.

The warning lights and senders added about another hundred. I had the wire, terminals, and other supplies. The hole saws are a funky size (2.0625" and 3.375"). The only other real expense was the little bit of sheet metal from TSC.

The hardest part was incorporating the factory gauge cluster supply wires into my new wiring.
 

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Foolsize Member
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1,525 Posts
Greased the 92’s rear driveshaft. Checked for any play, found a loose trans mount bolt and tightened that up. Still has a vibration under load above 45-50 mph:banghead
 

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The Tennessee Warden
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2,550 Posts
Greased the 92’s rear driveshaft. Checked for any play, found a loose trans mount bolt and tightened that up. Still has a vibration under load above 45-50 mph:banghead

Pinion nut starting to back off a little bit?
 

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1,254 Posts
We got snow last Saturday night. Been in the teens since today,. It flamed up to 45* this afternoon. I drove the 88 to the do it yourself car wash to wash all the road shit off the body and ice out of the rear bumper and underside. There were big chunks of dirty ice all over the bay at the wash when I pulled out. I drove back home dodging all the wet spots in the road from melting! It'll look good till this weekend when they say it's gonna snow again. Winter, gotta love it!:banghead
 

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Pinion nut starting to back off a little bit?
I doubt it, but then again anything is possible. I am able to wiggle the front of the driveshaft/transfer case flange up and down a few millimeters. I know the slip yoke 1356's in F150's have a bushing in the yoke that will wear and cause a little slop, but i've never had a fixed yoke case apart.
 

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Realized I have a tilt wheel! Duh, didn’t know the blinker did that too! I’m 6’6” so that is great for me
it's been a little while since I've seen one of these posts but don't feel bad bud. It's funny how many folks never realize it and find out by happy accident, years into FSB ownership.
 

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removed the tailgate release assembly to straighten out the bent thingy so I can open the tailgate.. The reason it bent in the first place cuz since my window doesn't completely go down, it didn't release the mechanism that tells the release assembly that the window is completely down... so I was physically forcing the release to open.... nice little project while I wait for my driveshaft to arrive in the mail..:thumbup
 

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Greased the 92’s rear driveshaft. Checked for any play, found a loose trans mount bolt and tightened that up. Still has a vibration under load above 45-50 mph:banghead
if it goes away when you go above 60, its torque converter clutch shudder. that can be fixed by changing the fluid a few times

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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if it goes away when you go above 60, its torque converter clutch shudder. that can be fixed by changing the fluid a few times

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
The M5OD don’t care about no torque converter shudder:toothless

Haha, it’s a manual. I’m kind of at a loss honestly, the only issue I’ve found is the small amount of play in the output flange of the Tcase. Haven’t had time to dig any further
 

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removed the tailgate release assembly to straighten out the bent thingy so I can open the tailgate.. The reason it bent in the first place cuz since my window doesn't completely go down, it didn't release the mechanism that tells the release assembly that the window is completely down... so I was physically forcing the release to open.... nice little project while I wait for my driveshaft to arrive in the mail..:thumbup
you can "disable" that rod lever completely and never have to worry about your window position again.

 

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Premium Member
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it's been a little while since I've seen one of these posts but don't feel bad bud. It's funny how many folks never realize it and find out by happy accident, years into FSB ownership.
Discovering mine in the 88 was not a happy accident. I happened to be pulling down on the steering wheel to pull me in right after I got it in 2004. The wheel ratcheted down when I pulled on it!:eek: The tilt got disabled soon after that!;)
 

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you can "disable" that rod lever completely and never have to worry about your window position again.
Thanks... nice info but I just used a tiny screw to keep that lever open.. then removed the rod that attaches to it... Someday I'll want to repair the whole thing so it works like new.
 
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