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Finally addressed the rough running of the transmission when the weather is above 100°. I'm guessing that my smashed tranny pan was starving the pump and not allowing enough flow into the cooler. Might not look like much, but after some careful measurements I found my pickup-to-pan clearance to be about 1/8" or less. You can see the hammer marks a la the PO, where he unsuccessfully tried to remove the dent. Unlike him, I used a much bigger hammer (20 lb. sledge) and some blocks of wood and pushed it back out a full 1/2"+. I drained the tranny, TC and flushed the cooler, replaced the filter and gasket, filled the TC in vehicle and cycled it with 12 qts of new fluid. We'll see when we get the next heat wave. I may do a short write up on this, let me know what you guys think.


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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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Drove it to work today. Man, what a difference that timing adjustment made. It will actually accelerate in OD without downshifting now. I can see how my gas mileage would be better now, based on the lesser amount of effort it requires to accelerate and maintain speed, especially up hills.



I also picked up a dash mat for cheap (on sale) to cover the discoloration that I have. It still needs to settle and I need to velcro down certain areas, like on the front and around the defrost vents, but I think it is an improvement.


 

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Drove it to work today. Man, what a difference that timing adjustment made. It will actually accelerate in OD without downshifting now. I can see how my gas mileage would be better now, based on the lesser amount of effort it requires to accelerate and maintain speed, especially up hills.
Now set the timing to about 12-13°, that'll throw it's balls out there and you'll have plenty of torque when you start moving.

Heck, mine lurches when I stab it now. It used to just putter when accelerating at 10°.

Search the site for the 6Litre tune up if you haven't seen it already. Totally worth the 15min it takes to do it.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,425 Posts
Now set the timing to about 12-13°, that'll throw it's balls out there and you'll have plenty of torque when you start moving.



Heck, mine lurches when I stab it now. It used to just putter when accelerating at 10°.



Search the site for the 6Litre tune up if you haven't seen it already. Totally worth the 15min it takes to do it.

:thumbup It’s in the plans!
 

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Dropped it off to install chromo shafts f/r, lockers and gears f/r, spindles, rotor/hub, lock outs, ball joints and all seals, bearings, etc f/r. So full axle rebuilds less having the housings painted.
 

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OOOO, where and how much?
For the axles? If so, Colorado Axle n Gear. Al Sr and Al Jr are top notch, honest, fairly priced and really know their stuff. Price-wise, it’s roughly $700/$800 per axle or so. I can’t remember exactly what he quoted me as it’s been several weeks between getting the quote (and all parts in hand) and dropping it off today. There will undoubtedly be some odds and ends along the way. I can edit this or send a PM when I get the final bill and explain the full scope of work.

For suspension (because my floor jacks and axle stands can’t get my Bronco high enough), I’ll use All Seasons 4x4. Really honest, straight forward guys who knew immediately about radius arm bushings and how to install them which said a lot. It’s shocking how many shops will give you the “Bronco lean” because they don’t know how to do them properly.

For the Hydroboost, rear disk kit and all mechanical work, I’ll use Precision Auto Works. They worked on my body off restored ‘72 Chevelle SS and had that 468 BBC roasting the tires just right. They do great work.
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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It's good to see there are still awesome shops out there for what work someone needs or wants done. And yeah, RA bushings are actually not that hard to do, but require paying attention to a few details.
 

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It's good to see there are still awesome shops out there for what work someone needs or wants done. And yeah, RA bushings are actually not that hard to do, but require paying attention to a few details.


This is the bushing at the back of the arm right? Mine need to be done, any advice on those few details?


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Feel bad because I hadn't driven it in over a week..fired it up in the driveway and let it come up to temp..Love the smell of that exhaust...:thumbup
 

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This is the bushing at the back of the arm right? Mine need to be done, any advice on those few details?


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I’m referring to the C bushings at the axle. The little donut bushings at the back are straightforward. You would do them all at the same time given how you need to access them to replace them.
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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Partial disassembly of the radius arm at the I-beam helps immensely. Once that's done, the end will move forward and out of the RA bracket at the rear. When reassembling it, the bushings have a smaller-diameter raised end (I'm sure 've seen it on them if you've already bought the bushings); that end on each side goes into the hole in the RA bracket. What I do is I undo the arm up front and hold the I-beam up on a jack, then undo the Nut and pull the arm from the hole, taking stock of which parts go where. That helps in reassembly. I then put the front cupping washer and the forward bushing on the arm, set the end through the RA bracket hole, and use a ratchet strap to hold the arm in place snugly, to free up both hands. Then put the rear bushing on, then the rear cupping washer and nut, run it down till it contacts the washer, but I don't yet tighten it. Go ahead and reassemble the arm to the I-beam, torque everything down, then finish by torquing the bushing nut. You'll have to look up the torque specs and the I-beam/arm disassembly procedure, but that's basically how you do one and keep from messing it up.
 

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Hey ya'll it's been a minute since my last visit. Been working on the Bronco a little bit lately. Started using some Meguiar's compound to clean up the paint and it is a lot of work. It's looking way better than is was looking but still has a long way to go. It sure makes me feel better to look at it now.

I also purchased a Steering wheel rap at Walmart last Saturday and stitched it together in the middle in the same manner the OEM leather rap was stiched on and it came out looking ok. Even though I was not to worried about looks it came out looking ok. I was more concerned with the feel while driving. It's a comfort thing for me. This Tank is a PITA to drive as it is. It needs a ton of work. It wobbles, steers hard, clunks in the rear end and gets lousy fuel milage. So any way here are a few pics cause I know every one likes to see pics :)

Never mind I forgot posting images to this sight requires posting and linking posted pictures from a hosted image sight. :doh0715:
 
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Turn signals went out on me while driving to work. Replaced the flasher relay and they work again, but now I can’t get the fuse panel cover back on... is too tall flasher relays a thing? Or is there something wrong with the fuse panel?

I also got the spot light in my A-pillar working again. That’s nice.
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Turn signals went out on me while driving to work. Replaced the flasher relay and they work again, but now I can’t get the fuse panel cover back on... is too tall flasher relays a thing? Or is there something wrong with the fuse panel?

I also got the spot light in my A-pillar working again. That’s nice.
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See if the hazard flasher is shorter (it's on the back of the fuse panel), if it is put the long one in the back.
 

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Dropped a mirror head off to get new glass installed - can't seem to find the glue in glass on the 78/79 only mirror heads.

In a stupid phase, I replaced the same mirrors on my 78 F-150 with replacement styles mirrors from LMC and the things whistled from the gasket that held the glass in all the way down the road!
 

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Turn signals went out on me while driving to work. Replaced the flasher relay and they work again, but now I can’t get the fuse panel cover back on... is too tall flasher relays a thing? Or is there something wrong with the fuse panel?
Yup. Some of the newer, electronic flasher fuses are taller. Once I got one of those, I couldn't put my cover on anymore. But, they're much more reliable, and have a louder click (helps to not forget them on).
 
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