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Yo,
Replaced our 96's POS Walmart Everstart Maxx 65N; 850 CCA, 1000 CA Battery.
$93.76

The POS was only ~10 years old!��


BTW, Wal-Mart credited me $12.00 for the old POS. So total cost with state tax was $81.76
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Finally "fixed" my rear window mechanism so I can open the tailgate any time I want to. Got tired of having to make sure the glass was 100% down, or the handle wouldn't work.



I cut off the swivel arm that locks the handle if the window isn't all the way down, and then cut off the bracket that held the swivel arm.

 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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1,514 Posts
Finally "fixed" my rear window mechanism so I can open the tailgate any time I want to. Got tired of having to make sure the glass was 100% down, or the handle wouldn't work.



I cut off the swivel arm that locks the handle if the window isn't all the way down, and then cut off the bracket that held the swivel arm.

I've rolled down my window only 75% of the way (Winter time) many times and opened the tailgate.


Should it only be 100% down in order to open said tailgate?
 

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I've rolled down my window only 75% of the way (Winter time) many times and opened the tailgate.


Should it only be 100% down in order to open said tailgate?
There's a spring loaded arm that locks the handle mechanism. When the window goes all the way down, it hits a metal rod that pulls on the spring loaded arm, and swivels the lock out of the way. The window will only connect with the rod when it's within the last 1/2" of travel.

If yours still works at 75% down, then either someone has removed it, or it rusted in place.
My '81 was the latter. The swivel lock had rusted, and once the window went all the way down, it just stayed and didn't spring back, so the handle was always unlocked.

My new one worked correctly, so it had to go!
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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1,514 Posts
There's a spring loaded arm that locks the handle mechanism. When the window goes all the way down, it hits a metal rod that pulls on the spring loaded arm, and swivels the lock out of the way. The window will only connect with the rod when it's within the last 1/2" of travel.

If yours still works at 75% down, then either someone has removed it, or it rusted in place.
My '81 was the latter. The swivel lock had rusted, and once the window went all the way down, it just stayed and didn't spring back, so the handle was always unlocked.

My new one worked correctly, so it had to go!
My tailgate rattles so much from loose stuff inside it that I don't what's attached and what's not.

The key switch died a couple months ago.


Window still lowers and raises, though.

I fear the day it stops working.
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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1,514 Posts
Just sprayed the torx bolts of the forward section of rear drive shaft with Aerokroil.


In prep to regrease slip-joint.
Are the bolts that fastens the rear axle to the transfer case called torx???


If so; are there more than one kind of torx heads?

Like 6-point and/or 12-point?


I bought a set of sockets I thought would do the job. NOPE! :banghead



WHAT SOCKET SET IS USED ??? :notworthy :notworthy
 

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The Tennessee Warden
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2,297 Posts
Are the bolts that fastens the rear axle to the transfer case called torx???





If so; are there more than one kind of torx heads?



Like 6-point and/or 12-point?





I bought a set of sockets I thought would do the job. NOPE! :banghead







WHAT SOCKET SET IS USED ??? :notworthy :notworthy


They are 12mm 12-pt bolts. Torx are the star-shaped holes in some other bolts, like seat belt bolts. A standard 12-pt socket or box end wrench will do the job 12mm size. I always have had trouble getting a ratchet/socket into the area behind the t-case to get to those bolts so I use a 12pt 12mm box end wrench there (with a 7/8 box end wrench to use as a cheater bar if needed). I take the diff side off first with a socket, and then get two of the front side bolts off with a wrench, put truck in neutral, spin the driveshaft around to get to the other bolts, shift back to park, and then get the last two bolts. :thumbup
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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1,514 Posts
They are 12mm 12-pt bolts. Torx are the star-shaped holes in some other bolts, like seat belt bolts. A standard 12-pt socket or box end wrench will do the job 12mm size. I always have had trouble getting a ratchet/socket into the area behind the t-case to get to those bolts so I use a 12pt 12mm box end wrench there (with a 7/8 box end wrench to use as a cheater bar if needed). I take the diff side off first with a socket, and then get two of the front side bolts off with a wrench, put truck in neutral, spin the driveshaft around to get to the other bolts, shift back to park, and then get the last two bolts. :thumbup
Hey; 12mm box end wrench it is! :beer


BTW; I found one bolt a quarter turn loose...:shocked
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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3,755 Posts
After you reinstall, go back and check torque about a week or two later. They have a tendency to back off sometimes.

....or a little Blue Loctite helps too. If you look closely at the threads, you will see Ford used a yellow type of thread locker at the factory.
 

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Premium Member
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34,511 Posts
There's a spring loaded arm that locks the handle mechanism. When the window goes all the way down, it hits a metal rod that pulls on the spring loaded arm, and swivels the lock out of the way. The window will only connect with the rod when it's within the last 1/2" of travel.

If yours still works at 75% down, then either someone has removed it, or it rusted in place.
My '81 was the latter. The swivel lock had rusted, and once the window went all the way down, it just stayed and didn't spring back, so the handle was always unlocked.

My new one worked correctly, so it had to go!
This is some good info but I wanted to correct or add to it, as we get noobies rollin' in here and there.
You can actually over-pull on the tailgate's "open" handle lever and bend the rod... basically forcing the handle to over-ride the safety mechanism. Folks see this all the time in used Bronco's and most never really even know it. If the handle to open your tailgate doesn't sit flush and even with the gate but sticks up/out just a bit, the rod is more than likely been bent, so the lever can't go back into it's designed position.

One of the first things I go after when I get a new 2 me Bronco and eliminating the rod and "safety trigger" piece is tooo easy and way worth it, as long as you know and make sure anyone else using your Bronco knows. IF the glass is sticking partially out through the tailgate and you drop the gate, the glass can (may or may not, depending...) shatter from hard contact against the metal gate at the rubber sill.

:toothless
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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1,514 Posts
This is some good info but I wanted to correct or add to it, as we get noobies rollin' in here and there.
You can actually over-pull on the tailgate's "open" handle lever and bend the rod... basically forcing the handle to over-ride the safety mechanism. Folks see this all the time in used Bronco's and most never really even know it. If the handle to open your tailgate doesn't sit flush and even with the gate but sticks up/out just a bit, the rod is more than likely been bent, so the lever can't go back into it's designed position.

One of the first things I go after when I get a new 2 me Bronco and eliminating the rod and "safety trigger" piece is tooo easy and way worth it, as long as you know and make sure anyone else using your Bronco knows. IF the glass is sticking partially out through the tailgate and you drop the gate, the glass can (may or may not, depending...) shatter from hard contact against the metal gate at the rubber sill.

:toothless
That's why I'm able to open with the glass still exposed: Handle sticks up/rod probably bent.



BTW:
"The more you know" = :histerica :rofl:
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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3,755 Posts
@BikerPepe`


Informative, who'd a thunked it?

Kinda of reminds me of my dad telling me that "Marriage is the number one cause of divorce" Once again, Who'd a thunked it?
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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1,514 Posts
After unbolting the forward part of the rear drive shaft and removing it; I noticed part of the double cardan CV ball seal missing and with cracks.

Is that a big deal?


Part of the ball is exposed:
 

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