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@379sinvb that white dentside with the blue flames is awesome!

Still waiting on mine from alignment shop
Sorry to hear you're still waiting on the alignment shop, but could be worse, like the 22 weeks mine spent in the shop after we got her from Texas to Pa. Curious (and this is gonna sound like a noob question) but why do you call it a "dentside" @youngDUMP ?
 

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All I did this week was changed the fluids in the trans/tc.

Curious (and this is gonna sound like a noon question) but why do you call it a "dentside" @youngDUMP ?
If I remember correctly, pre-73? had a ridge, but 73?-79 have an indentation between the markers on the sides. Hence, Dentside.
 

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If I remember correctly, pre-73? had a ridge, but 73?-79 have an indentation between the markers on the sides. Hence, Dentside.


This is correct. And before the dent side would be bump side or ridge side @BroncMom

Hopefully mine will be done soon. I’ve got a list I’m itching to get started on.

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Took the day off work because I can and still get paid!:histerica Anyhow I had an appointment at Auto Interiors Plus. Drove the 93 down there @ 8:00 AM to have them repair the drivers seat. It seems sliding in and out of a lifted truck and dragging my ass across the side of the leather seat had taken it's toll. A tear was starting to get ugly and I figured it was time to do something about it. Rich had it done around 2:00 pm and called me. I went back down there and $275.00 later I was on my way.:thumbup I now need to practice getting out by putting a foot on the nerf bar to lift up my dead ass off the seat getting out!:doh0715:

 

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Eric
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Since I built my rear axle about 9 months ago I have noticed a high-pitched whistle, at lower speeds of 5-25 mph., (literally like when someone whistles to get your attention) I have never heard before. It's constant and only stops when I slow to less than 5 mph. I was very confident with my build as everything went well and I nailed the specs and gear pattern I was shooting for.

Turns out being a stingy bastard caught up with me. :brownbag I had re-used the pinion yoke that came off the donor truck for the axle housing I used in the build. I knew better, but did it anyway to save a buck. It had scoring on the spline hub from the pinion seal wearing into it over the years and I hadn't noticed. I thought they were just discoloration from heat (fairly typical in used yokes) when I cleaned it up for the build and didn't bother checking with my fingernail. That's what my "whistle" was. It was the yoke seal riding in those grooves. Now I need to find a new yoke available locally. Pretty sure it's still not a "parts store" item. I've always had to order them from somewhere in the past.
 

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Addicted to Junk
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Thought about driving it...

But the broken lockout, worn axle stubs, open header, sticky throttle, and cobbled together driveshaft changed my mind
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Since I built my rear axle about 9 months ago I have noticed a high-pitched whistle, at lower speeds of 5-25 mph., (literally like when someone whistles to get your attention) I have never heard before. It's constant and only stops when I slow to less than 5 mph. I was very confident with my build as everything went well and I nailed the specs and gear pattern I was shooting for.

Turns out being a stingy bastard caught up with me. :brownbag I had re-used the pinion yoke that came off the donor truck for the axle housing I used in the build. I knew better, but did it anyway to save a buck. It had scoring on the spline hub from the pinion seal wearing into it over the years and I hadn't noticed. I thought they were just discoloration from heat (fairly typical in used yokes) when I cleaned it up for the build and didn't bother checking with my fingernail. That's what my "whistle" was. It was the yoke seal riding in those grooves. Now I need to find a new yoke available locally. Pretty sure it's still not a "parts store" item. I've always had to order them from somewhere in the past.
This begs the questions (at least for this nOOB):
1) You're not supposed to re-use a pinion yoke?
2) What are the guidelines for using said pinion yokes?
 

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This begs the questions (at least for this nOOB):

1) You're not supposed to re-use a pinion yoke?

2) What are the guidelines for using said pinion yokes?


If the seat for the seal is not damaged or gauged like I think he said his was you can re use them. A gouge or but will shred/melt the seal eventually and cause a leak.


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I adjusted my steering stops. My tires already rubbed the radius arms pretty bad. I recently swapped wheels to some stock steelies and they rubbed even more.
The steering stops were rusty as hell. I had to use a little heat to loosen them so I didn't snap them off. Maine winters have not been kind to the old girl. Then I realized that if you extend them very much there is only a few threads holding them. So I went to the hardware store and got some longer grade 8 bolts and cheap nuts and made my own. Now I have almost an inch of threads holding and no more rubbing. :thumbup

Now I gotta work on my inop tailgate window. :banghead
I probably won't last a half hour on that project before I get mad and go take a nap. :toothless.
 

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Yo,
Replaced passenger door strike bolt bushing.
How 'bout a
:grats:grats:grats ?
:histerica
 

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Started putting mine back together after taking a week off from working on it, only to get aggravated. So went home and cut my lawn.
 

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Eric
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This begs the questions (at least for this nOOB):
1) You're not supposed to re-use a pinion yoke?
2) What are the guidelines for using said pinion yokes?
You absolutely can re-use a pinion yoke, if it's in good/acceptable condition. Most used pinion yokes will have heat-affected-zones on the spline hub in the locations where the pinion oil seal contacts. This is typical. However, once those H.A.Z.'s wear to the point where they are physically scored into the hub surface your options are to replace the yoke entirely, or purchase and install a repair kit. The repair kit is little more than a very thin sleeve that slips over the spline hub to, in effect, create a new surface for the oil seal to ride on. However, since both items cost very nearly the same (~$50) it's a better practice to just replace the yoke.

You can tell if you have scoring/galling on any smooth metal bearing/seal surface by using your fingernail, which is highly enervated, to drag across the surface. If your fingernail detects an imperfection the surface is to be considered compromised. This technique applies to bearing races and the individual rollers in cone bearings as well.

You can help prolong the life the of pinion oil seal and the spline hub itself by using a high quality/high drop-point bearing grease to thoroughly coat the seal's contacting rubber surface prior to installing the yoke. The grease will, ideally, get trapped in the small voids created by the seal's multiple ridges, as it has nowhere else to displace to, and provide a constant source of lubrication throughout its service life. A lot of guys tell you to just use the same gear lube as you're using for your diff to lubricate the seal, but the builder who taught me used to say, "Fluid is designed to flow and grease is designed to stay." Also, it won't hurt a single thing if a small amount of grease, from coating the seal, gets mixed into the gear lube over time from mild seepage.

I knew all this, going into my build, and every axle I've built for customers always gets a brand new yoke, but I cheaped-out on my own rig and she let me know she was pi$$ed.
 

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Replacing my 4 bolt F250 steering box since the pinion shaft seal blew out on me in the middle of a rock strewn twitch trail. Driving out through the boulders with no power steering was interesting. Watch those fingers in the wheel!


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