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Dropped it off at my buddies to start fixing some mechanical items:
1) valve cover gaskets (sand blast and paint also)
2) sand blast, paint and polish intake plenum
3) install E150 power steering pump
4) passenger side exhaust manifold gasket
5) fumoto oil drain
6) tie rod ends
7) u-joint
8) fuel sending unit and install cut out in rear floor pan

Fingers crossed, this holds her over for now!!


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570 Posts
Dropped it off at my buddies to start fixing some mechanical items:
1) valve cover gaskets (sand blast and paint also)
2) sand blast, paint and polish intake plenum
3) install E150 power steering pump
4) passenger side exhaust manifold gasket
5) fumoto oil drain
6) tie rod ends
7) u-joint
8) fuel sending unit and install cut out in rear floor pan

Fingers crossed, this holds her over for now!!


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Here's hoping that your buddy knows all this....but just letting you know.

1. Sand blasting baffled valve covers without masking everything off with duct tape is a crap shoot. Even then - sand makes its way everywhere. I've personally seen it more than once.
2. Wash the crap out of it before priming / painting and bolting on your engine. Blasting media clings everywhere, especially inside the plenum / intake where the runners are rough cast aluminum.
4. OEM exhaust manifolds don't have gasket from the factory. From experience I can tell you - odds are you have either a cracked exhaust manifold (common), a messed up gasket at the junction where the manifold bolts to the y-pipe - or you have a leak in the EGR / AIR system that will sound just like an exhaust leak.

HTH
 

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570 Posts
Got some primer / paint on the short block

153926


153927


A lot of parts / engine accessory cleaning.
Got the short block ready to replace the oil pump and pickup assembly.
Checked out the condition of one of the main bearings.

153928


Don't mind the specs of trash. That's from taking the cap off. I'll clean the crap out of it all and hit with some engine assembly lube before torquing the cap back down.
 

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Are you freaking kidding me?? Well the good news was it started snowing around 9am Saturday morning and by Sunday afternoon it was all gone. We have two places here in Atlanta that make fake snow and charge 30$ a day to go play in it. I saved 100$.... and got to drive around in 4 wheel drive and laugh at people who spun out. My neighbor tried to take the corvette to work right in the middle of it.... No I did not pull her out. I told her to wait a few hours and it would melt enough for her to drive it out of the cul de sac and back into her driveway.

 

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Here's hoping that your buddy knows all this....but just letting you know.

1. Sand blasting baffled valve covers without masking everything off with duct tape is a crap shoot. Even then - sand makes its way everywhere. I've personally seen it more than once.
2. Wash the crap out of it before priming / painting and bolting on your engine. Blasting media clings everywhere, especially inside the plenum / intake where the runners are rough cast aluminum.
4. OEM exhaust manifolds don't have gasket from the factory. From experience I can tell you - odds are you have either a cracked exhaust manifold (common), a messed up gasket at the junction where the manifold bolts to the y-pipe - or you have a leak in the EGR / AIR system that will sound just like an exhaust leak.

HTH
Thanks for the heads up. He informed me of these items today and actually told me the manifold was cracked and they didn’t have gaskets. Shows how much I know! Lol. Yeah they plenum and valve covers will be blasted OFF the truck and cleaned and painted. I’ll make sure I mention taping the ports off though. Thanks again for the tips!


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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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737 Posts
Yo Pepe',
Thanks! However, our little bastards don't ask before entering.😎
I opened the hood this morning and found more leaves on driver side rocker cover. What bother me was that they partially removed the spiral wrap from the coil. They've been studying Automotive Basic Electricity⚠
We just placed a trap outside and will soon begin a reverse illegal immigrant move.
They have tapped into your internet and are getting all there Bronco knowledge from you!! How goes the battle?
can you gate or is your parking area gated? Get a good coon hound or dachshund and let them free range around the vehicles them 4 legged turds won’t stand a chance.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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28 Posts
I installed a pair of Hella 500FF lights. Initial review: Theyre much better than factory headlights, I can see now! 5/5 stars, because they're cheap and functional. The wiring harness is too short to fit as I wanted, but I made it work.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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2,817 Posts
New tires installed today - man, what a night and day difference! These are Cooper Evolution M/T 35/12.50/15 on 15x10 wheels, and they are great so far. They are far quieter than the MT/Rs and drive great. I provided the tech with 8 oz bags of balancing beads and had him spin them just to make sure they were good (they were). You can actually see in one pic where the weights were before. I was slightly apprehensive about the beads, but wow, they worked great up to 75 mph (I had to try it out on the freeway). I'm a believer now, @BigBlue 94 . Now I just gotta run to the coin-op wash and clean this thing up - I hate driving it out in the snow melt/salt. Now to sell the GY MT/Rs and get some of my money back!


 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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2,817 Posts
Now I just gotta run to the coin-op wash and clean this thing up...
It’s a balmy 33° today so I figured I’d give it a wash - pressure washer and then a wipe down, no brush. Glad I got this done before the next snow tonight.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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737 Posts
Blowed up my T-case but that’s another post.
 

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Eric
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2,547 Posts
Well, my 2.5* bushings came in Monday afternoon:
154020


Started installing them today. Man, those factory bushings are a mother-f****r to get out without popping the whole knuckle. I opted to fight with them (instead of pulling axles and dropping the knuckle) and regret that decision. They make a special puller for around $110, but I wasn't going to spend that for a single-use tool. I ended up dinging the BJ stud's threads when the air chisel slipped off the bushing, on the left side beam, and I didn't notice. This caused the castle-nut to bind when I attempted re-install. Had to weld a bolt to the top of the BJ stud to prevent it from turning so I could unthread the castle-nut. Then I had to re-dress the top of BJ stud where I had welded the bolt. Now I need a new castle-nut because the threads are FUBAR'd. I did everything I could to save that new ball-joint I recently installed. I really didn't want to tear down the beam again just to replace a single BJ. Nothing critical was harmed, but I really wish I had taken a different approach.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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2,817 Posts
I’m about to rip out the JBG “heavy duty” headlight harness. Headlights have been flickering while driving at night - possibly during bumpy roads - it’s hit and miss. I pulled and cleaned all the connections and reinstalled and it’s still doing it. I guess I’ll go back to the stock harness since I never had that problem before.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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2,817 Posts
Maybe just a bad ground somewhere?


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I thought the same thing so I removed and cleaned all the positive and negative connections. I’m wondering if the relay is damaged or something. I haven’t tried to run with hi beams to test the other relay and piss off some people lol.

Now that I think of it, I may just swap the relays (hi for low) and see if it continues since the relays are exactly the same.
 
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