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Man of endless projects
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went to junkyard and pulled a 10.25" dually axle. its going in the 88 bronco to replace its semifloating Dana60, not that there is anything wrong with the D60 but i have plans and this is the best route i believe. going to ditch the 37" military tires and instead go 36x9.5 paddle tires. they have extremely aggressive tread but because they are soo narrow, im planning to run dually setup in the rear. or may stick single wheel and enjoy abit wider axle



as for the 96, last weekend i cut the leaf spring perches off the new 10.25" so i can use Ruffstuff perches (to perfectly set pinion angle without angle shim). today i swapped it under the truck and its mostly done. angle is set, just need to weld the perches, and do the disc brake conversion which is very easy. oh and wire the front and rear e-lockers

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Today, @Aaron's Mud E 1 stopped by with the old '90 FSB. He's already been jumping the motor to get the window where he needs it, so we knew the motor was still good. First we bypassed the latch safety switch with a jump wire, no joy. Figured the easiest way to check the wiring and the dash switch was to use the power light tester at the C418 connector behind the fuel tank. Got good power on the all-hot, up and down plugs at the connector. That only leaves the motor connector or in the tailgate harness itself. The connector looks fine but not great... so Aaron decided he'd take it home to pull the harness out and see if he could find the issue. We talked about a lot of the potential problems and fixes and everything was fresh for me after recently going through my own. It was a trip to work on the rig I sold years ago. Aaron was happy with the progress. Nice kid. Hoped I got him close to the fix, at least. Still... I should have threatened to flick a booger on him, just for a grin. 😈

After he left, I finished installing the 30 amp inline fuse on the 10ga. power wire for the tailgate relay mod on mine (thanks again @SRWillis ), then I re-installed the starter with new mounting bolts I had stashed in my bin, then I pulled the relays out, filled the back of the connectors with E6000 to seal them from any potential future corrosion, then filled the gap between the relays and their plugs with dielectric grease and re-installed them nice and snug, leaving what little gap there was between the 2 filled with grease.
Tested the battery I had been charging the whole time and it tested out to 12.5. The rear window was going up/down at a respectable speed, as was the drivers side door window. Dash lights appeared bright too. You'd never have a reason to suspect that battery... unless you knew better, I guess.
Jumped in and tried to fire it over. Fuel pump ran up, everything checks out, turn the key... clickity, click, click like crazy. Decided I'd try the Interstate battery in the little lady's '78, that's sat unused for at least 7 months but was a 2019 purchase. Tested it with the multi-meter and it showed 12.3. Just a hair lower than the Optima Red I'd been charging for a few hours. Swapped it in... and the '95 fired right up. Turned it off, waited a few, tried it again... fired right up, quick and easy. No hesitation. 😎

With as well as the Optima Red top was reading and working... I'm still baffled that it couldn't even try to kick over the starter. How does a battery provide that kind of steady juice but have no crankin' amp ability, what-so-ever? 😖

Well... lesson learned. I'll still have to go pickup a bigger Interstate battery tomorrow. The one in the '78 fits perfect with the 2nd gen battery holding bracket, rods and wing-nuts but the '95 requires a notched, 7" wide base to be mounted securely with the OEM battery lock and I've grown tired of bungy straps over battery's. Still need one for the other rig anyway... so, yea.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys. @biggum , @White Dragon and everybody else who was thinking battery had it dead on... but what the hell, a Virtual Round for everybody, put it on my tab!! 👍
 

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Glad you found your problem @BikerPepe`. Sorry you have to buy a battery though, those things are $$$ these days.
 

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I like the interstate batteries to but mine have only been lasting about 2 years now. Just keep that in mind in a couple of years if you have problems again


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Batteries can show good no-load voltage but will not have the capacity to supply any current to run a device. I suspect an internal short in one of the cells lowering it's capacity. I always change out the battery with a known good one as the first step of the process. I've even had to disconnect a battery to be able to jump start it as the installed battery was consuming most of the current from the other battery. Fun times! Glad you got it figured out BikerPepe`
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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I like the interstate batteries to but mine have only been lasting about 2 years now. Just keep that in mind in a couple of years if you have problems again
Every new Interstate I'd even consider running has a 30 mo. warranty for Free Replacement. I was considering the more expensive MTZ-65 w/a 48 mo. and but it's only got 770 CCA, is listed as "Long Life" (whatever that means) and runs closer to $300 but it's matt based... more like the Optima's, I guess. The MTP-65 HD is better rated for extreme cold conditions with a 30 mo., and is listed for 6 year life expectation with 850 CCA for under $200. That's likely where I'll go but either of them would be a free replacement at the 2 yr. mark you seem to have experienced.

Hell... the Interstate in my '73 F250 work truck has been going strong for at least 6 yrs now and it works the angling snow plow, the bed lift hoist w/3000 lb. winch and a full length EMS, over-cab light bar... along with turning over that old FE 360 in some seriously cold conditions... but I do run a block heater when it gets really cold and that warms the engine bay enough to melt snow off the hood. It is daisy chained to a WallyWorld EverStart though.

@Bruners4 - I have to assume that I was experiencing the same issue, with that bad cell killing the ability to jump start with either another rig or a plug-in charger on full boost. Had I known that was a thing... I could have started it and drove it home at least, rather than calling AAA. Lesson learned there but I likely won't ever run an Optima again anyway.
 

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'96 XL EEC-V 347 E40D 1356 411 6" lift 35x12.50x15
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4,203 Posts
Today, @Aaron's Mud E 1 stopped by with the old '90 FSB. He's already been jumping the motor to get the window where he needs it, so we knew the motor was still good. First we bypassed the latch safety switch with a jump wire, no joy. Figured the easiest way to check the wiring and the dash switch was to use the power light tester at the C418 connector behind the fuel tank. Got good power on the all-hot, up and down plugs at the connector. That only leaves the motor connector or in the tailgate harness itself. The connector looks fine but not great... so Aaron decided he'd take it home to pull the harness out and see if he could find the issue. We talked about a lot of the potential problems and fixes and everything was fresh for me after recently going through my own. It was a trip to work on the rig I sold years ago. Aaron was happy with the progress. Nice kid. Hoped I got him close to the fix, at least. Still... I should have threatened to flick a booger on him, just for a grin. 😈

After he left, I finished installing the 30 amp inline fuse on the 10ga. power wire for the tailgate relay mod on mine (thanks again @SRWillis ), then I re-installed the starter with new mounting bolts I had stashed in my bin, then I pulled the relays out, filled the back of the connectors with E6000 to seal them from any potential future corrosion, then filled the gap between the relays and their plugs with dielectric grease and re-installed them nice and snug, leaving what little gap there was between the 2 filled with grease.
Tested the battery I had been charging the whole time and it tested out to 12.5. The rear window was going up/down at a respectable speed, as was the drivers side door window. Dash lights appeared bright too. You'd never have a reason to suspect that battery... unless you knew better, I guess.
Jumped in and tried to fire it over. Fuel pump ran up, everything checks out, turn the key... clickity, click, click like crazy. Decided I'd try the Interstate battery in the little lady's '78, that's sat unused for at least 7 months but was a 2019 purchase. Tested it with the multi-meter and it showed 12.3. Just a hair lower than the Optima Red I'd been charging for a few hours. Swapped it in... and the '95 fired right up. Turned it off, waited a few, tried it again... fired right up, quick and easy. No hesitation. 😎

With as well as the Optima Red top was reading and working... I'm still baffled that it couldn't even try to kick over the starter. How does a battery provide that kind of steady juice but have no crankin' amp ability, what-so-ever? 😖

Well... lesson learned. I'll still have to go pickup a bigger Interstate battery tomorrow. The one in the '78 fits perfect with the 2nd gen battery holding bracket, rods and wing-nuts but the '95 requires a notched, 7" wide base to be mounted securely with the OEM battery lock and I've grown tired of bungy straps over battery's. Still need one for the other rig anyway... so, yea.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys. @biggum , @White Dragon and everybody else who was thinking battery had it dead on... but what the hell, a Virtual Round for everybody, put it on my tab!! 👍
It would be real interesting when you go for a "New" battery
if you could drag that Optima along for a "Load Test"....
(B-4 Shelling out the duggets.)
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Interesting idea, unfortunately I bailed out shortly after the post. I went with the Interstate MTP-65 HD with 30 Month Free Returns and 6 yr warranty for $169 with a $10 core credit for the Optima. Pre-fit in the tray before purchase. Was a perfectly snug and solid fit in the FSB's battery tray and that's a direct fit recommendation from Interstate, fwiw.
Not too shabby for a WET, non-AGM battery. They seem to keep the best CCA's from what little I looked at, so... save money AND get the best winter cold rated battery. Same place picked up the Optima line recently too. The old dude behind the counter had one word to say about 'em... "over-priced".
 

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Interesting idea, unfortunately I bailed out shortly after the post. I went with the Interstate MTP-65 HD with 30 Month Free Returns and 6 yr warranty for $169 with a $10 core credit for the Optima. Pre-fit in the tray before purchase. Was a perfectly snug and solid fit in the FSB's battery tray and that's a direct fit recommendation from Interstate, fwiw.
Not too shabby for a WET, non-AGM battery. They seem to keep the best CCA's from what little I looked at, so... save money AND get the best winter cold rated battery. Same place picked up the Optima line recently too. The old dude behind the counter had one word to say about 'em... "over-priced".
Interesting topic so I hit up Consumer Reports to see what they had to say. Didn’t know average temperature would have such a big impact...

“Car batteries typically last from three to five years, according to AAA, spanning from 58 months or more in the furthest northern regions of the U.S., down to less than 41 months in the most southern regions.”

FWIW Optima didn’t even make the list for the Size 65 our FSB’s use (and didn’t place particularly well elsewhere either). Also learned that brand name doesn’t necessarily run across all battery sizes, so what brand’s size might do well in the kid’s ‘yota, might not work well in the Bronco. Lesson learned: research the specific battery size for your vehicle, not just brand names.

PS @bikerpepe Interstate top rated Size 65 alongside O’Reilly’s Super Start
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Interesting topic so I hit up Consumer Reports to see what they had to say. Didn’t know average temperature would have such a big impact...

“Car batteries typically last from three to five years, according to AAA, spanning from 58 months or more in the furthest northern regions of the U.S., down to less than 41 months in the most southern regions.”

FWIW Optima didn’t even make the list for the Size 65 our FSB’s use (and didn’t place particularly well elsewhere either). Also learned that brand name doesn’t necessarily run across all battery sizes, so what brand’s size might do well in the kid’s ‘yota, might not work well in the Bronco. Lesson learned: research the specific battery size for your vehicle, not just brand names.

PS @bikerpepe Interstate top rated Size 65 alongside O’Reilly’s Super Start
That's interesting and good to hear but it seems odd to me that you/they say batteries last longer in the colder regions than the southern, warmer regions. I'd have thought that to be exactly opposite.

Last night I installed my KC Cyclone under hood light kit.
Well... you gonna brag 'em up a little? Look bright as hell, I assume LED. Wired into the rig or battery powered? Switched or off-level triggered? Price per unit or set?

earl change!
do what?
 

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Chicks dig my
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In a valiant attempt to jump start my rehash and rebuild I sold my 37" Baja on 12bolt recentered rims. Made enough cash that I bought new 37's MT/Rs ($75ea) today and mounted them on some 589's I had in the shed. Got the tires mounted and back under the Bronco. Now to hibernate and shelter in place per the governors order.



 

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Sure. Yes, they are LED KC kit PN 355. Comes with 2 lights and a harness and switch. I used the original wire for the factory under hood light and fished the wires through the hood reinforcements.
 

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I ♥ TTB
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Interesting topic so I hit up Consumer Reports to see what they had to say. Didn’t know average temperature would have such a big impact...

“Car batteries typically last from three to five years, according to AAA, spanning from 58 months or more in the furthest northern regions of the U.S., down to less than 41 months in the most southern regions.”

FWIW Optima didn’t even make the list for the Size 65 our FSB’s use (and didn’t place particularly well elsewhere either). Also learned that brand name doesn’t necessarily run across all battery sizes, so what brand’s size might do well in the kid’s ‘yota, might not work well in the Bronco. Lesson learned: research the specific battery size for your vehicle, not just brand names.

PS @bikerpepe Interstate top rated Size 65 alongside O’Reilly’s Super Start
Damn Pepe, sorry I missed your posts on the battery issues... Hopefully the interstate you got will last you the 3 years... Yes average life is 3-5, hot/cold/electrical demands all effect this, plus care an feeding. Interstate moved the majority of manufacturing to Mexico once they combined with JCI. I would have steered you towards and East Penn battery, USA made with the lowest return rate on the market. I supply the city/state/county with these in our 850CCA line with great results! At least what you got has a good warranty on it in case you have an issue!
As far as optimas, same issue, got bought by JCI, moved production to Mexico, quality went downhill. They did not make one to fit our factory group 65 however they have a couple of "feet" that snap onto the ridge on the bottom to accomodate our factory hold downs.


As far as the actual thread goes, I drove warpig over to my friends house for dinner, then parked her next to the shop so I can start working on the BB swap soon.... I hope...
 

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Yup. Optima is not the product it used to be. Odyssey in my view is the best but $$$. I have a group 65 Interstate that is 13 months old in my '78 and it died over night yesterday. Off to Costco to warranty it.
 
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