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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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305 Posts
I have Polk Audio speakers in my current rig. They’re good speakers.
Did you run the power pack to the battery or use the head unit itself? I saw they said 15A and higher would be fine but didn’t know for sure. I’m using the fosgate p300 12” powered sub on my rig also.


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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,294 Posts
Did you run the power pack to the battery or use the head unit itself? I saw they said 15A and higher would be fine but didn’t know for sure. I’m using the fosgate p300 12” powered sub on my rig also.


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IIRC the power pack plugged directly into the harness behind the radio. It also plugs into the speaker harness. It’s pretty much plug and play. It was a very easy install. Now, for the sub amp, you’ll have to run that power to the battery.
 

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Registered
1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
Joined
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305 Posts
IIRC the power pack plugged directly into the harness behind the radio. It also plugs into the speaker harness. It’s pretty much plug and play. It was a very easy install. Now, for the sub amp, you’ll have to run that power to the battery.
That’s awesome. Yeah that’s why I planned on doing it while the interior is out! Figured that would be the easiest time to try it!


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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,294 Posts
That’s awesome. Yeah that’s why I planned on doing it while the interior is out! Figured that would be the easiest time to try it!


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Just make sure you run your sub’s speaker wires nowhere near the power wire to the amp for the subs. You’ll get noise. Good luck, and I’ll look forward to the install.
 

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Registered
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181 Posts
Replaced the waterpump, thermostat, and t-stat housing about a month ago. Everything went fine. I moved it in the garage the other day. Then I notice a wet spot under it. Crawl around under it and see coolant dripping off the trans lines and under the front main seal area. I can't see or feel any wetness around the pump or housing anywhere. Got me stumped. So, a couple of times, I start it, let it heat up and look for leaks. Nothing. What the hell? Then, finally, i see coolant around the allen-head plug on the top of the t-stat housing. The threads should have been factory sealed. I pull the plug, wrap a little teflon tape around it, no more leaking.
 

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Joisey don't smell funny
Joined
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1,118 Posts
Installed the new alternator bracket yesterday as I had been having issues with the belts getting loose. i went to a Glimer belt setup, but twice still had it get loose. The new bracket I got from L & L this past winter is beefy. It lined up the alt perfectly with the Gilmer pulleys on the water pump and crank, easy install. No more slapping belt when all the accessories are on. Volt meter at 13.8 steady. Got a couple vacation days next week and I'll be swapping in a new master brake cylinder. Bled them all around when I did the rear rebuild, but since then the pedal occasionally feels like it's gonna go to the floor. A quick pump and it hardens up again. No leaks anywhere, I've checked several times.


159766
 

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816 Posts
Couple of things going on over the last week or so finished up in the last couple of days...

Stepped up from 33s to 35s, stuck with GY Duratracs. 285/75-16 to 315/75-16. Decided to upgrade while the old set still had good tread, and I think I already have them sold.



The other project was a rattle bomb re-paint. I'm pretty sure at least the front end of our Bronco got repainted at some point during its life, and it was a pretty poor job, especially on the hood. As much as I would like to do a legit re-paint, it's not in the budget this year (time or $$). Rattle can paint is pretty durable in AZ... if I was somwhere else, I may have made a different choice. Since its primary mission is back country exploring, I decided flat desert tan would work. Plus, touch ups are quick and easy...

I worked a panel or two at a time, and finished up this morning.










Still need to adjust the hood stop on the passenger front... :p
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,294 Posts
@Rodan that’s the way to do it - sell your take-offs while they still have tread and save hundreds on your new rubber. I bought 5 new 35” Cooper MT tires about 6 months ago on deep sale and after selling my old 35s I only came out of pocket $400. Can’t beat that with a stick.

The new paint job looks great - I dig it.
 

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Registered
82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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2,180 Posts
Couple of things going on over the last week or so finished up in the last couple of days...

Stepped up from 33s to 35s, stuck with GY Duratracs. 285/75-16 to 315/75-16. Decided to upgrade while the old set still had good tread, and I think I already have them sold.



The other project was a rattle bomb re-paint. I'm pretty sure at least the front end of our Bronco got repainted at some point during its life, and it was a pretty poor job, especially on the hood. As much as I would like to do a legit re-paint, it's not in the budget this year (time or $$). Rattle can paint is pretty durable in AZ... if I was somwhere else, I may have made a different choice. Since its primary mission is back country exploring, I decided flat desert tan would work. Plus, touch ups are quick and easy...

I worked a panel or two at a time, and finished up this morning.










Still need to adjust the hood stop on the passenger front... :p
That turned out really nice 👍
 

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Man of endless projects
Joined
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9,055 Posts
spur of the moment decided to buy a Harbor Freight 12k winch to put on my 88 mud truck since it was my only truck without one. the problem was i have a steel pipe bumper and mounting one was going to be a challenge. got it most of the way done but it decided to suddenly pour rain on me while welding. hopefully i can get it done tomorrow if it doesn't rain again

how it was originally.
159892


bought the universal mounting plate. cut 6" from each side to fit between brush guard
159894


used those pieces to make plates to attach to. used existing holes for plug welding
159895


used some L and strip steel to make framework for mounting the winch plate. because the 4 bolts that mount the winch need to be accessible, i have to have the winch infront of the bumper. i debated on welding or bolting the plate to the bumper but decided bolting to easy remove it is better. got one side done and other side started before the rain hit. its sprayed with weld-thru primer
159896

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mocked up, not attached
159898

159900
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,880 Posts
Pulled out my faulty oem 7-blade trailer plug and patched in a simple 4 prong. I'll wait until my fuel pump dies, drop the tank and while I have access to the wire harness, I'll find the actual problem, fix it and install an updated 7-blade/4 prong multi-plug.
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
1994 Ford Bronco XL 5.0L
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1,810 Posts
Topped off tranny with .5 quart.
Two weeks post-new tranny pan swap; no leaks! 😎

Interesting; the only thing that leaks now is the muffler and tailpipe in the morning. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Registered
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4,767 Posts
Topped off tranny with .5 quart.
Two weeks post-new tranny pan swap; no leaks! 😎

Interesting; the only thing that leaks now is the muffler and tailpipe in the morning. :ROFLMAO:
You do know that there is considerable moisture generated when gasoline burns, 1 gallon of gasoline produces about one gallon of water which usually comes out of the exhaust as water vapor (looks like steam in the winter). When the engine is cold (and the exhaust system is cool), the water produced condenses on the cooler exhaust parts (pipes and muffler). The motion of the exhaust blows some of the water out the end of the pipe. OEM mufflers actually have a small drain hole, helps get that moisture out and prevent premature rusting of the muffler.
Water coming out of the exhaust when cold is NOT a problem!
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,294 Posts
You do know that there is considerable moisture generated when gasoline burns, 1 gallon of water produces about one gallon of water which usually comes out of the exhaust as water vapor (looks like steam in the winter).
Yep - AKA combustion.

CxHx + O2 —-> CO2 + H2O

 

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Man of endless projects
Joined
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9,055 Posts

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Man of endless projects
Joined
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9,055 Posts
wired the winch up ready to use. did what i did on my other 2 trucks and mounted the winch relay behind the grill on core support without the big protective box. mounted the plug for the remote on driver side under headlight and made a future splice so i can easily run the wiring to dash when i get a new switch panel

now i jsut need to run new led pods and maybe a couple more recovery points

160012

160013
 

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Registered
1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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84 Posts
Replaced the screws holding the tailgate access panel on with new ones with a tiny bit bigger heads. It looks better now and I'm not missing any.
 
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